From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #1173 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Tuesday, August 19 2003 Volume 01 : Number 1173 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: steering wheel gremlins Sunday adventures in rare sunshine... RE: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD RE: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:57:56 -0400 From: Robert Chase Subject: Re: steering wheel gremlins Hue, Hypodermic filled with glue works well just dont drive the car until it has time to dry (or at least dont use that part of the wheel). Its best to do a few injections from the back of the wheel where you cant see it rather than squirting it in all at once. Be sure to get a glue that does not require a lot of air to dry because inside the steering wheel it won't dry well. Sometimes a two part epoxy works well if there is not a big heat reaction. The only other way would involve removing the wheel and heating the metal until the plastic inside melted onto it. That would be involved and would risk runing a perfectly good wheel. :) A hair dryer and plastic spatula work good on paint (dont want to scratch it). After you pull the stickers you might want to consider waxing the car because there will be a slight difference in luster. The hair dryer will loosen up the glue and the spatula will help seperate it from the car. While Im at it Ill share another trick you may or may not have problems with. Scratches in wood are easy to "mask" with fingernail polish. While it wont be perfect it will protect the wood until you decide to refinish the piece and will make the chip or nick less obvious (it can be removed with acetone later or just peeled away). I have done a couple of panels in my car and they look good. Its important to "build" layers of the polish and then use a dremel tool with a polishing bit to even it out. A freind of mine works with antiques and plans on showing me all his tips and tricks for hiding damage. I might get a couple of pieces of ruined zebrano to perfect my technique :). Wood glue works well on pieces of trim that have come loose. My glove compartment door had come completely off when a friend was not paying attention and jumped in my car with the glove compartment door open. Orange Glo is great for cleaning the seats and plastic parts on the inside of the car. It will get most of the dirt and grime off and will leave a nice shiny surface. After a few days follow up with armor all and your plastic and MBtex will look great. You could probably use it as a "follow up" on your headliner once you use the bissel machine on it. Good luck on the new wheels. Robert Chase hue wong wrote: > Ok. > > So I just picked up a new car and am going through > her, fixing all the little pings and sprongs. > > So the steering wheel in in excellent condition EXCEPT > the foam padding /leather shroud around the steering > wheel is loose on the top. Like the driver over the > last 100k furiously worked thier hands back and forth > on the top of the steering wheel and streched it out. > > On the sides and bottom it's nice and tight. There > are no tears and it's in great shape otherwise. > > I'm thinking of getting a needle and syringe and > injecting super glue through the shoud, to tighten it > up. > > Has anyone experienced this before? Are there > simpler fixes? > > Also what do I use to get all the lame stickers out of > the windows besides a razor blade scrapping? > > Thanx all! > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:05:52 -0700 From: john Subject: Sunday adventures in rare sunshine... The following pictures are a clear demonstration of my influence on friends... back in 1986 I moved next to this guy. Back then he was a simple Volvo loving collector with about 10 or so Volvos. He became involved with me on a few engine swaps and customization of Full Size Jeeps... well... the pictures tell the Full story... :) http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/rigs/Toms-collection-Aug-2003/ (recommend the animated gif if you have a fast connection, it's about 6 Meg. ;) http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/rigs/Toms-collection-Aug-2003/8-17-03-animated.gif I didn't show pictures of the MG Magnette, the multitude of B series Volvos, or all of the Willys, or of the 401 Javelin... He only wants $1,800 for the Javelin... very tempting... Nothing there is really all that great, everything needs a lot of work... Of course the gears are turning... if I get the Golden Eagle J10 and mate the willys box and my J10 fenders I can create another Stepside... :) The pictures will take a while to upload. And yes, everything is for sale pretty much. My buddy is realizing that unless he lives to 200 he'll never finish all the projects represented by the sampling of pictures I took. :) He is out in the sticks. For a price I'll disclose his secluded location and negotiate the deal. ;) Actually if you buy it you'll keep it from showing up at my house, and that, quite realistically, will be a significant payment. :) FWIW, there are at least 3 of these FSJs and one Dodge that were one time mine. One or two of the white Wagoneers, the blue dodge (not shown?), the burned out J10 and possibly another one... Like I said, I had an influence on him. :) And he on me. :) BTW, he's got an '86 XJ there with a 2.8L V6 for free... he's even got a trailer and a tow dolly so if you want a free XJ, let me know. I'll ask for my friend that you cover his fuel costs to deliver it. :) One thing I haven't had a chance to influence my friend with, and that's Mercedes Diesels... We went over to his house in my son's XJ, he hasn't seen my latest Benz yet... If he does, I'm sure you'll start seeing those show up over there too... Oh yeah, I may be helping him drag two FC's home next weekend... an FC170 and an FC150. My guess is they'll be in as good as condition as everything else there... :( I do have some thoughts about the Golden Eagle J10 though, so I've got rights of first refusal. ;) Haven't had time to talk to my son about going in together with him on it. When he started talking about rhino chaser grille and then bashing down trees I kind of dropped the topic. ;) john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... Jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:39:31 -0400 From: "Aimino, Michael" Subject: RE: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD The battery warning light never comes on, even when the key is moved to the pre-glow position. That had me scratching my head. All of the other dash lights, including the low fuel light, work as they should. Perhaps a short inside the alternator? That's a possibility. Would that show up on the bench test? If not, that may be where the short is. For certain, current is going somewhere, and it's not the battery. I made it into work today. 60 mile drive, the brake wear and brake lights went out after about 20 miles. I'll find out if it starts this afternoon. Thanks. - -----Original Message----- From: Steve Morelen [mailto:smorelen-at-hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 10:52 PM To: maimino-at-alltel.net; diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: Re: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD Mike- I'm suspicious of the alternator since the warning lights are a function of engine speed...even though the alternator has been tested out of vehicle. Those lights should not come on (with engine running) unless the alternator output is low. What has the battery warning lamp and the low fuel lamp in the dash been doing during this period of time? Does the battery lamp light when the key is in the run position with engine not running? The other puzzle is: where the discharge path that kills the battery?...could be the alternator. Steve Morelen >From: "Michael Aimino" >Reply-To: maimino-at-alltel.net >To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net >Subject: Re: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD >Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 20:33:04 -0400 > >LOL - OK, that narrows it down. :) > >Here's the state of things: > >At 3000 rpm, the brake-related dash lights go out and the alternator >shows 13.4 volts. > >I checked the body-to-engine strap for continuity - OK. Also checked >for continuity along different paths - all OK. Starting checking for >shorts - so far, so good. > >I'm going to finish checking for shorts. I'm also going to pull the >fusebox and see what I can see there. All the fuses were removed, >polished, and replaced, so the topside is OK. > >I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow and see what happens. Worse >case, AAA gives me a ride home. And I'm late for dinner. > >Thank you to everyone for their suggestions. It's good to know you >guys are out there. > >Mike > > >On 18 Aug 03, at 15:40, john wrote: > > > On Mon, 18 Aug 2003, Michael Aimino wrote: > > > > >-->OK, I'll try that. > > >--> > > >-->Also, here's one thing I just thought of - the body to engine > > >ground -->strap - anyone know where that's located on the 300SD? > > > > on the body and connects to the engine... ;) > > > > ok, ok, I believe it's attached near the battery box and over the > > starter... > > > > john > > >--> > > >-->On 18 Aug 03, at 15:24, john wrote: > > >--> > > >-->> pull the battery and check the system with everything turned off > > >-->> for shorts... then test various systems... -->> -->> could be > > >corrosion in a connector, bad fuses, ??? -->> -->> john -->> -->> > > >-->> On Mon, 18 Aug 2003, Michael Aimino wrote: -->> -->> >-->One > > >additional bit of info - I tested the voltage at both the -->> > > >>battery -->and the positive terms - 12.47v at idle. Now, I watched > > >-->> >when it was -->tested earlier today, and both times it tested > > >at 13.4 -->> >volts. --> -->Somewhere, somehow, I'm getting a voltage > > >drop. --> -->> >-->On 18 Aug 03, at 14:34, john wrote: --> -->> > > >elaborate a bit on: -->> >"The alternator tested OK." -->> -->> who, > > >where and how was it -->> >tested? -->> -->> sounds like the internal > > >regulator or one of the -->> >diodes is going out. -->> Especially > > >since it kicks in when the RPM -->> >goes up... a bad diode in -->> > > >the full wave bridge would work like -->> >that ... My guess is it's > > >a -->> diode, but either way, it ain't -->> >right and a cheesy > > >tester would -->> probably show it ok... needs to -->> >be put under > > >load with an accurate -->> reading. -->> -->> if you -->> >went to a > > >mc-parts place they may not have tested it under -->> -->> >load... > > >there are testers to test it in the car too... -->> -->> -->> >john > > >-->> -->> -->> On Mon, 18 Aug 2003, Michael Aimino wrote: -->> -->> > > >>-->> >-->Hi. Need help with a 1982 300SD with a strange electrical > > >-->> >problem. -->> >--> -->Tried to drive to work this morning, > > >about 12 -->> >miles from home, -->> >I lost -->the headlights. > > >Turned around and -->> >came home. --> -->The -->> >brake wear light > > >and the brake light on -->> >the dash were lit. --> -->I -->> >pulled > > >the alternator and the -->> >battery and had both tested. The -->> > > >>-->alternator tested OK. The -->> >battery was dead - recharged and > > >tested -->> >OK. --> -->I -->> >reinstalled the alternator and > > >battery. --> -->I cleaned -->> >all -->> >the various grounds under > > >the hood and the trunk. I -->cleaned -->> -->> >>the positive > > >terminals on the fender. I cleaned the battery -->> >-->cables -->> > > >>and battery posts. When I started the car, the brake -->> >wear > > >-->light -->> >and the brake light were on, dim and flickering. -->> > > >>If I rev the -->car -->> >to about 2.5k, both the brake wear light > > >-->> >and the brake light go -->> >-->out. --> -->I've cleaned every > > >ground -->> >and the positive terminals -->> >on the passenger > > >-->fender. I've -->> >checked the fuses. My light bulbs -->> >are all > > >OEM Mercedes -->> >-->bulbs. --> -->I'm thinking if I drive to work > > >-->> >again -->> >tomorrow, the battery may go -->dead again, since > > >nothing I've -->> -->> >>done has seemed to rectify the problem. --> > > >-->Any ideas? Thanks in -->> >-->> >advance. --> -->> -->> ---- > > >-->> -->> -->> > > >>-------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >- -->> >- -->> --- -->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** -->> > > >>http://freegift.net ** -->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where > > >-->> >Jeeps don't rust, they mold. -->> Suggestions: email in plain > > >text -->> >w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. -->> -->> > > >>-------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >- -->> >- -->> --- The revolt is underway, -->> the penguin is > > >coming... -->> > -->> I can hear the slap of his little feet... > > >-->> and the -->> >squishing of worms and sco lawyers under > > >them... -->> -->> > > >>-------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >- -->> >- -->> --- --> -->> -->> ---- -->> -->> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >- -->> --- -->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** > > >http://freegift.net ** -->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where > > >Jeeps don't rust, they mold. -->> Suggestions: email in plain text > > >w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. -->> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >- -->> --- The revolt is underway, -->> the penguin is coming... > > > -->> I can hear the slap of his little feet... -->> and the > > >squishing of worms and sco lawyers under them... -->> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >- -->> --- --> --> --> > > > > ---- > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > --- > > ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** > > Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. > > Suggestions: email in plain text w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > --- The revolt is underway, > > the penguin is coming... > > I can hear the slap of his little feet... > > and the squishing of worms and sco lawyers under them... > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > --- _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:45:15 -0400 From: "J.B. Hebert" Subject: RE: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD It sounds to me like you have a burnt out battery warning light, among other problems. It should come on when the key is "on" but the vehicle isn't running. I'd take a look at that first. Get it working, and you might find it's on all the time, even when the vehicle is running. Good luck! J.B. At 09:39 AM 8/19/2003 -0400, you wrote: >The battery warning light never comes on, even when the key is moved to the >pre-glow position. That had me scratching my head. > >All of the other dash lights, including the low fuel light, work as they >should. > >Perhaps a short inside the alternator? That's a possibility. Would that show >up on the bench test? If not, that may be where the short is. For certain, >current is going somewhere, and it's not the battery. > >I made it into work today. 60 mile drive, the brake wear and brake lights went >out after about 20 miles. I'll find out if it starts this afternoon. > >Thanks. > >-----Original Message----- >From: Steve Morelen [mailto:smorelen-at-hotmail.com] >Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 10:52 PM >To: maimino-at-alltel.net; diesel-benz-at-digest.net >Subject: Re: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD > > >Mike- >I'm suspicious of the alternator since the warning lights are a function of >engine speed...even though the alternator has been tested out of vehicle. >Those lights should not come on (with engine running) unless the alternator >output is low. What has the battery warning lamp and the low fuel lamp in >the dash been doing during this period of time? Does the battery lamp light >when the key is in the run position with engine not running? The other >puzzle is: where the discharge path that kills the battery?...could be the >alternator. > >Steve Morelen > > > >From: "Michael Aimino" > >Reply-To: maimino-at-alltel.net > >To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > >Subject: Re: electrical gremlin - '82 300SD > >Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 20:33:04 -0400 > > > >LOL - OK, that narrows it down. :) > > > >Here's the state of things: > > > >At 3000 rpm, the brake-related dash lights go out and the alternator > >shows 13.4 volts. > > > >I checked the body-to-engine strap for continuity - OK. Also checked > >for continuity along different paths - all OK. Starting checking for > >shorts - so far, so good. > > > >I'm going to finish checking for shorts. I'm also going to pull the > >fusebox and see what I can see there. All the fuses were removed, > >polished, and replaced, so the topside is OK. > > > >I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow and see what happens. Worse > >case, AAA gives me a ride home. And I'm late for dinner. > > > >Thank you to everyone for their suggestions. It's good to know you > >guys are out there. > > > >Mike > > > > > >On 18 Aug 03, at 15:40, john wrote: > > > > > On Mon, 18 Aug 2003, Michael Aimino wrote: > > > > > > >-->OK, I'll try that. > > > >--> > > > >-->Also, here's one thing I just thought of - the body to engine > > > >ground -->strap - anyone know where that's located on the 300SD? > > > > > > on the body and connects to the engine... ;) > > > > > > ok, ok, I believe it's attached near the battery box and over the > > > starter... > > > > > > john > > > >--> > > > >-->On 18 Aug 03, at 15:24, john wrote: > > > >--> > > > >-->> pull the battery and check the system with everything turned off > > > >-->> for shorts... then test various systems... -->> -->> could be > > > >corrosion in a connector, bad fuses, ??? -->> -->> john -->> -->> > > > >-->> On Mon, 18 Aug 2003, Michael Aimino wrote: -->> -->> >-->One > > > >additional bit of info - I tested the voltage at both the -->> > > > >>battery -->and the positive terms - 12.47v at idle. Now, I watched > > > >-->> >when it was -->tested earlier today, and both times it tested > > > >at 13.4 -->> >volts. --> -->Somewhere, somehow, I'm getting a voltage > > > >drop. --> -->> >-->On 18 Aug 03, at 14:34, john wrote: --> -->> > > > >elaborate a bit on: -->> >"The alternator tested OK." -->> -->> who, > > > >where and how was it -->> >tested? -->> -->> sounds like the internal > > > >regulator or one of the -->> >diodes is going out. -->> Especially > > > >since it kicks in when the RPM -->> >goes up... a bad diode in -->> > > > >the full wave bridge would work like -->> >that ... My guess is it's > > > >a -->> diode, but either way, it ain't -->> >right and a cheesy > > > >tester would -->> probably show it ok... needs to -->> >be put under > > > >load with an accurate -->> reading. -->> -->> if you -->> >went to a > > > >mc-parts place they may not have tested it under -->> -->> >load... > > > >there are testers to test it in the car too... -->> -->> -->> >john > > > >-->> -->> -->> On Mon, 18 Aug 2003, Michael Aimino wrote: -->> -->> > > > >>-->> >-->Hi. Need help with a 1982 300SD with a strange electrical > > > >-->> >problem. -->> >--> -->Tried to drive to work this morning, > > > >about 12 -->> >miles from home, -->> >I lost -->the headlights. > > > >Turned around and -->> >came home. --> -->The -->> >brake wear light > > > >and the brake light on -->> >the dash were lit. --> -->I -->> >pulled > > > >the alternator and the -->> >battery and had both tested. The -->> > > > >>-->alternator tested OK. The -->> >battery was dead - recharged and > > > >tested -->> >OK. --> -->I -->> >reinstalled the alternator and > > > >battery. --> -->I cleaned -->> >all -->> >the various grounds under > > > >the hood and the trunk. I -->cleaned -->> -->> >>the positive > > > >terminals on the fender. I cleaned the battery -->> >-->cables -->> > > > >>and battery posts. When I started the car, the brake -->> >wear > > > >-->light -->> >and the brake light were on, dim and flickering. -->> > > > >>If I rev the -->car -->> >to about 2.5k, both the brake wear light > > > >-->> >and the brake light go -->> >-->out. --> -->I've cleaned every > > > >ground -->> >and the positive terminals -->> >on the passenger > > > >-->fender. I've -->> >checked the fuses. My light bulbs -->> >are all > > > >OEM Mercedes -->> >-->bulbs. --> -->I'm thinking if I drive to work > > > >-->> >again -->> >tomorrow, the battery may go -->dead again, since > > > >nothing I've -->> -->> >>done has seemed to rectify the problem. --> > > > >-->Any ideas? Thanks in -->> >-->> >advance. --> -->> -->> ---- > > > >-->> -->> -->> > > > >>-------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > >- -->> >- -->> --- -->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** -->> > > > >>http://freegift.net ** -->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where > > > >-->> >Jeeps don't rust, they mold. -->> Suggestions: email in plain > > > >text -->> >w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. -->> -->> > > > >>-------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > >- -->> >- -->> --- The revolt is underway, -->> the penguin is > > > >coming... -->> > -->> I can hear the slap of his little feet... > > > >-->> and the -->> >squishing of worms and sco lawyers under > > > >them... -->> -->> > > > >>-------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > >- -->> >- -->> --- --> -->> -->> ---- -->> -->> > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > >- -->> --- -->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** > > > >http://freegift.net ** -->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where > > > >Jeeps don't rust, they mold. -->> Suggestions: email in plain text > > > >w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. -->> > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > >- -->> --- The revolt is underway, -->> the penguin is coming... > > > > -->> I can hear the slap of his little feet... -->> and the > > > >squishing of worms and sco lawyers under them... -->> > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > >- -->> --- --> --> --> > > > > > > ---- > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > --- > > > ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** > > > Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. > > > Suggestions: email in plain text w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > --- The revolt is underway, > > > the penguin is coming... > > > I can hear the slap of his little feet... > > > and the squishing of worms and sco lawyers under them... > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > --- > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month. >http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1173 **********************************