From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #1211 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 21:08:54 +0000 diesel-benz-digest Wednesday, September 10 2003 Volume 01 : Number 1211 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: [db] Re: 1985 300TD Wagon/Gray Car VIN # WDB1231931F041876 Re: [db] radiator update Re: [db] Sheet Metal RE: [db] radiator update Re: [db] radiator update Re: [db] blinkers out on a 81 300td (update) Re: [db] radiator update Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 11:52:20 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] Re: 1985 300TD Wagon/Gray Car VIN # WDB1231931F041876 the shop manuals might still be available in paper form, very heavy... or on CD. ebay seems to have a number of copies available for reasonable price... benz parts... used or new? have a page with info on it on my server... get on the diesel-benz list, rusty is the guy for new parts. john On Tue, 9 Sep 2003, Paul Thomason wrote: >-->Hi John, >-->I am restoring the "Subject" mentioned Benz and need shop manuals. I am a pretty good shade tree mechanic who loves the Benz Diesels and can not afford the so called repair/maintenance shops that pride themselves in selling a high volume of service at enormous cost. I need Shop Manuals, especially body manuals and a supplier of Benz parts. Please advise. Thank you. >-->Bill Thomason >-->Po Boy Restoration ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. Suggestions: email in plain text w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The revolt is underway, the penguin is coming... I can hear the slap of his little feet... and the squishing of worms and sco lawyers under them... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 13:02:39 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] radiator update On Tue, 9 Sep 2003, Anaeis N wrote: >-->Today I made an order to replace the radiator, the thermostat, upper, lower, by-pass hoses, thermostat housing and overflow (is that a hose or something else?) The water pump was replaced in '91, so I'm going to keep that one for awhile. >--> >-->Is the hose that Sam mentioned that goes from the water pump housing to the engine called the by-pass hose? >--> >-->My mechanic didn't seem too familiar with a citric acid flush, and said that it would probably be unneccessary since I was replacing most of the system. Would you agree? probably cleans out deposits... many deposits would be in the block... probably some other flush would work. >--> >-->And I specified for them to use the MB coolant. Does 50/50 indicate 50% water, 50% coolant? Why not use it at full concentration? you'd reduce cooling and freezing protection with full a/f. optimum mixture for ethylene glycol is 50/50. propolyne glycol is different, forget what works better, think a bit more... not sure john >--> >-->Thanks again for helping out, guys! I feel good about the repair now. :) >-->R >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. Suggestions: email in plain text w/o attachments, and trust Jesus. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The revolt is underway, the penguin is coming... I can hear the slap of his little feet... and the squishing of worms and sco lawyers under them... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 16:25:08 -0400 From: "Eurowerks" Subject: Re: [db] Sheet Metal I have done this several times and can only tell you that it is REALLY nice to have a panel that will not only work, but one that will fit. I would recommend that you go with the panel that is of O.E. quality. You may want to try Eric Veng (a search engine should help). I have used them in the past for cheap replacement panels. You do get what you pay for.... Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 eurowerks-at-qx.net / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:41:13 -0500 From: "Sam Williams" <1sam-at-io.com> Subject: RE: [db] radiator update Paul, R, Both you and Paul asked. MB recommends citric acid when you need to flush a cooling system. One doesn't need to flush often, unless some other problem calls for it. Since you are doing such a thorough job, it is what I would do, for a car, new to me, in your place. Citric acid (roughly 1lb to 2 gal), MB Part Number: A 000 989 10 25, is a mild flush that dissolves hard water deposits--without harming the various metals and plastics that compose our engines and cooling system. It is those deposits that inhibit heat transfer between engine and coolant. Who knows what "Super Heavy Duty Radiator Flush (use only with full body protective suit)," that one finds at McParts stores, does to the inside of your engine. In your and most cases, a plain water flush is sufficient and preferable to harsh chemical flushes. Your mechanic sounds good on this point. Pure water provides the best heat transfer. Coolant has additives that counteract the harmful qualities of plain water but doesn't transfer heat as well. A 50% water, 50% coolant mixture is best, except for unusual circumstances. Vary in one direction if you live in northern Canada, the other if you live in Phoenix. Yes, the little hose is a by-pass hose. Tell him you want that little, roughly 3-4" long, hose on the water pump housing replaced. Often a rushed mechanic will replace all hoses but that one. Cheers, Sam - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Anaeis N Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 1:53 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net; 1sam-at-io.com Subject: [db] radiator update Today I made an order to replace the radiator, the thermostat, upper, lower, by-pass hoses, thermostat housing and overflow (is that a hose or something else?) The water pump was replaced in '91, so I'm going to keep that one for awhile. Is the hose that Sam mentioned that goes from the water pump housing to the engine called the by-pass hose? My mechanic didn't seem too familiar with a citric acid flush, and said that it would probably be unneccessary since I was replacing most of the system. Would you agree? And I specified for them to use the MB coolant. Does 50/50 indicate 50% water, 50% coolant? Why not use it at full concentration? Thanks again for helping out, guys! I feel good about the repair now. :) R Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:59:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Jerome Kaidor Subject: Re: [db] radiator update john wrote: > > probably cleans out deposits... many deposits would be in the block... > probably some other flush would work. > *** I've had engine blocks hot-tanked. It took off everything - paint, grease, gunk, whatever... ....EXCEPT the mineral deposits on the water passages. A friend of mine used to teach truck repair at a local community college. He told me that research showed that a 1/16" layer of that calcium crap has the same thermal resistance as THREE INCHES of good cast iron. The fix? When you refill your water system, use DISTILLED water & coolant. When you top it up, use DISTILLED water and coolant. Do NOT use tap water! He told me that the distilled water would cause the mineral layer to "sublimate" back into solution, thus gradually fixing the problem. - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry-at-tr2.com ) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 19:28:47 -0400 From: "J.B. Hebert" Subject: Re: [db] blinkers out on a 81 300td (update) Wow, talk about deja vu. Your email must have kicked my brain into gear, because now I know exactly what your problem was(is). Due to the position of the hazard switch on MB cars, it is easy to "bump" it into a position that is not fully on but not fully off either. In this position, your turn signals will not work. This happened to me occasionally in my '84 300TD, but I spent several years Benzless and had completely forgotten. Haven't bumped the switch on my 300CD yet. If it happens again, just make sure the hazard switch is all the way in the "off" position. If it acts up frequently, you might want to replace the hazard switch. I believe it contains the blinking mechanism for hazards and turn signals, which is why it can cause your problem. Good luck. J.B. At 08:05 PM 9/8/2003 -0700, you wrote: >So I mossy out tot the car and flip the hazzards on, >at the recomendation of fellow listers, >The flashers fire up nice and strong, then for fun I >try the blinker. Yup, everything works fine after I >ran some power through the hazzzards.. > >So now I am uber fearful of an electrical gremblin, or >could this just be that relay going bad? Is it time >to replace it? Anyone know how easy and how much the >part is? >Thanx >-hue- > >--- hue wong wrote: > > MMMMM I usta have to replace the "flash can" in my > > 71 > > vw bug on a semi-regular basis. This was some sort > > of > > rehostate/capacitor/resistor type thing that ran the > > flash. It was located under the back seats. > > I'm wondering if this might be the defective unit in > > question.... > > > > --- "J.B. Hebert" wrote: > > > It could be the actual blinker unit. Do the > > hazards > > > work? I'd have to > > > check my wiring diagrams, but I think the hazards > > > and the turn signals use > > > a common blinker. > > > > > > J.B. > > > > > > At 01:20 PM 9/8/2003 -0700, you wrote: > > > >So I just noticed this morning that my blinkers > > are > > > >out on my 81 300td. > > > > > > > >All four blinkers are out and nothing on the > > > dashboard > > > >indicator lights when I flip the lever on the > > > >streeting coloum. > > > > > > > > > > > >So, my question for the group. What should I be > > > >looking for to debug this problem. Is there some > > > sort > > > >of neuance like "is the right rear blinker bulb > > > burned > > > >out, then all four will fail" or anything like > > > that? > > > >I just checked the fuses at the box and all looks > > > good > > > >there? Is there any other fuse i should check? > > > (they > > > >sometimes put these things in the strangest > > > spots!!!) > > > > > > > >My little voice is telling me that maybe the > > coloum > > > >switch broke, but I have no evidence of that. > > Just > > > no > > > >blinker lights.. > > > > > > > >Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. > > > >-hue- > > > > > > > > > > > >__________________________________ > > > >Do you Yahoo!? > > > >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site > > > design software > > > >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site > > design software > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 17:01:23 -0400 From: "Eurowerks" Subject: Re: [db] radiator update A flush of some sort or another would be a good idea due to the fact that the block probably has a build up of one form or another in it. Unless you take them the MB coolant, almost no chance of getting factory coolant. (doesn't really make a difference anyway, only the color) Do not use straight coolant. It does not cool as well as a water (distilled only) and coolant mixed, and straight coolant will freeze before water will. Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 eurowerks-at-qx.net / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1211 **********************************