From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Tue Feb 24 06:52:48 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Tuesday, February 24 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1373 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: RE: [db] Last time before purchasedieselhead opinion poll Fwd: Re: [db] W126 (?86 300SDL) Radio Mystery and other Questions RE: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) Re: Fwd: Re: [db] W126 (?86 300SDL) Radio Mystery and other Questions [db] Re: W126 (?86 300SDL) Radio Mystery and other Questions Re: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) RE: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) Re: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 13:59:16 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: [db] Last time before purchasedieselhead opinion poll > Don't put the weight of the decision on us. We are a bunch of > fanatics who like MB Diesels, especially 240Ds. (We're not so > sure about Alec; you have to read carefully between the lines > of his posts to detect any bias.) > > Enjoy the car! > > Sam > It's good to know that my subtle methods have been recognized. I wouldn't want to have to, as Emeril says, kick it up a notch. ;-) Alec ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 20:03:41 -0000 From: Netpath User mzylka Subject: Fwd: Re: [db] W126 (?86 300SDL) Radio Mystery and other Questions I had similar issues with the radio in my '83 300D. I replaced it with a Blaupunkt from http://www.swstereo.com/. This shop is in New Burn, NC and he has the wiring adapters that made the fit perfect. Installing the new radio took 5 minutes. Even the fader wheel still works. All sounds good now. Marc Zylka '83 300D, 317k miles '89 Jeep XJ, 4.0L '2000 Town and Country Forwarded From: Kevin Pekarek > On Sat, Feb 21, 2004 at 01:00:17PM -0800, Greg Fiorentino wrote: > > 1- The OEM Becker radio cuts in and out at times. It does not appear to > > relate to moisture or temperature. Sometimes it fails to turn on when I > > start the car, then starts up after a while. Sometimes starts up ok, then > > turns off after playing for a while. When it doesn't play, I get momentary > > low volume distorted sound if I press the "on" switch or any station > > button. Does this sound like a relay that is operating intermittently? Or > > is it more likely something internal in the radio itself? I like the radio > > and the sound quality when it is working, but don't want the expense of > > replacing with a new OEM. Can I get this working right with a little > > multimeter testing? Do any of you electronics gurus out there have an idea > > what's happening here? > > Mine started doing this, until it stuck in the 'on' position. One of these > days, I'll pull the switch and fix it. I think a contact just came loose. > > > 3- The engine starts immediately and runs smoothly. However, it does not > > produce the power I am hearing the 3 liter 6 cyl. can produce. The valves > > are hydraulic, so I can't adjust them. Are the injectors the most likely > > culprit? The engine has only 135k. mi. on it. > > Sounds like you need to take it out and beat the crap out of it. Check the > ALDA first to make sure it's right (most of them aren't on these, from what > I keep hearing), then take it out and give it hell. > > > Can I get this bushing separately? I assume I would have to go to a dealer > > for this. If not, what is this part called? It does not actually appear > > to be the shock itself, as there appears to be some sort of lever-acting > > deal down at the bottom. Anyone out there BTDT with this? Getting to the > > dealer in Portland is a PITA, and I would rather patronize Rusty. > > I've had success with Rusty just telling him the location of the bushing, > what it appeared to do, the year of the car, and the relative size, then > gotten the right one in the mail. > > K > > -- > Kevin Pekarek > Redwood City, CA (near San Francisco) and > Los Osos, CA (near San Luis Obispo) > > - -- Netpath User mzylka ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 14:41:53 -0600 From: "Sam Williams" <1sam-at-io.com> Subject: RE: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) Robert, Paul Brown gave same suggestion I would have for removing stuck piston. Replacing caliper seems best solution, though. MB used both suppliers when building your model car. The calipers from both might be identical except for the name stamped on them but I would replace with one from the same manufacturer to prevent possible uneven brake action. Sam - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Robert Chase Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 12:26 PM To: 126-at-mbz.org; 'Diesel Benz' Subject: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) Uuuugh..... So I made the decision to tear into my braking system and was suprised with a frozen caliper. Im thinking of replacing both but when I inquired at the local parts place regarding the part they wanted to know if my car had Bendix or ATE braking system. I have a feeling that they just don't know what they are doing and either will work but there is a price difference. Anybody care to shed some light on this subject for me? Robert Chase ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 13:13:19 -0800 (PST) From: Mike Mangrum Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: [db] W126 (?86 300SDL) Radio Mystery and other Questions You can get it serviced at Becker of North America (http://www.beckerautosound.com/). Another source for after market systems is Crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/). There is an interface that lets you search for your car and what will fit it. Netpath User mzylka wrote:I had similar issues with the radio in my '83 300D. I replaced it with a Blaupunkt from http://www.swstereo.com/. This shop is in New Burn, NC and he has the wiring adapters that made the fit perfect. Installing the new radio took 5 minutes. Even the fader wheel still works. All sounds good now. Marc Zylka '83 300D, 317k miles '89 Jeep XJ, 4.0L '2000 Town and Country Forwarded From: Kevin Pekarek > On Sat, Feb 21, 2004 at 01:00:17PM -0800, Greg Fiorentino wrote: > > 1- The OEM Becker radio cuts in and out at times. It does not appear to > > relate to moisture or temperature. Sometimes it fails to turn on when I > > start the car, then starts up after a while. Sometimes starts up ok, then > > turns off after playing for a while. When it doesn't play, I get momentary > > low volume distorted sound if I press the "on" switch or any station > > button. Does this sound like a relay that is operating intermittently? Or > > is it more likely something internal in the radio itself? I like the radio > > and the sound quality when it is working, but don't want the expense of > > replacing with a new OEM. Can I get this working right with a little > > multimeter testing? Do any of you electronics gurus out there have an idea > > what's happening here? > > Mine started doing this, until it stuck in the 'on' position. One of these > days, I'll pull the switch and fix it. I think a contact just came loose. > > > 3- The engine starts immediately and runs smoothly. However, it does not > > produce the power I am hearing the 3 liter 6 cyl. can produce. The valves > > are hydraulic, so I can't adjust them. Are the injectors the most likely > > culprit? The engine has only 135k. mi. on it. > > Sounds like you need to take it out and beat the crap out of it. Check the > ALDA first to make sure it's right (most of them aren't on these, from what > I keep hearing), then take it out and give it hell. > > > Can I get this bushing separately? I assume I would have to go to a dealer > > for this. If not, what is this part called? It does not actually appear > > to be the shock itself, as there appears to be some sort of lever-acting > > deal down at the bottom. Anyone out there BTDT with this? Getting to the > > dealer in Portland is a PITA, and I would rather patronize Rusty. > > I've had success with Rusty just telling him the location of the bushing, > what it appeared to do, the year of the car, and the relative size, then > gotten the right one in the mail. > > K > > -- > Kevin Pekarek > Redwood City, CA (near San Francisco) and > Los Osos, CA (near San Luis Obispo) > > - -- Netpath User mzylka Mike M. in Ann Arbor, MI '74 914 2.0, '75 914 1.8, '82 300D TurboDiesel Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz My friends all drive Porsches, I must make amends Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 00:12:58 -0000 From: Netpath User mzylka Subject: [db] Re: W126 (?86 300SDL) Radio Mystery and other Questions Correct, but I also changed because the new radio has a CD player. I should have mentioned that, sorry. The digital equalizer is nice too. Marc Zylka '83 300D, 317k miles '89 Jeep XJ, 4.0L '2000 Town and Country Mike Mangrum said: > You can get it serviced at Becker of North America (http://www.beckerautosound.com/). Another source for after market systems is Crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/). There is an interface that lets you search for your car and what will fit it. > > Netpath User mzylka wrote:I had similar issues with the radio in my '83 300D. I replaced it with a > Blaupunkt from http://www.swstereo.com/. This shop is in New Burn, NC and he > has the wiring adapters that made the fit perfect. Installing the new radio > took 5 minutes. Even the fader wheel still works. All sounds good now. > > Marc Zylka > '83 300D, 317k miles > '89 Jeep XJ, 4.0L > '2000 Town and Country > > Forwarded From: Kevin Pekarek > > > On Sat, Feb 21, 2004 at 01:00:17PM -0800, Greg Fiorentino wrote: > > > 1- The OEM Becker radio cuts in and out at times. It does not appear to > > > relate to moisture or temperature. Sometimes it fails to turn on when I > > > start the car, then starts up after a while. Sometimes starts up ok, > then > > > turns off after playing for a while. When it doesn't play, I get > momentary > > > low volume distorted sound if I press the "on" switch or any station > > > button. Does this sound like a relay that is operating intermittently? > Or > > > is it more likely something internal in the radio itself? I like the > radio > > > and the sound quality when it is working, but don't want the expense of > > > replacing with a new OEM. Can I get this working right with a little > > > multimeter testing? Do any of you electronics gurus out there have an > idea > > > what's happening here? > > > > Mine started doing this, until it stuck in the 'on' position. One of these > > days, I'll pull the switch and fix it. I think a contact just came loose. > > > > > 3- The engine starts immediately and runs smoothly. However, it does not > > > produce the power I am hearing the 3 liter 6 cyl. can produce. The > valves > > > are hydraulic, so I can't adjust them. Are the injectors the most likely > > > culprit? The engine has only 135k. mi. on it. > > > > Sounds like you need to take it out and beat the crap out of it. Check the > > ALDA first to make sure it's right (most of them aren't on these, from what > > I keep hearing), then take it out and give it hell. > > > > > Can I get this bushing separately? I assume I would have to go to a > dealer > > > for this. If not, what is this part called? It does not actually appear > > > to be the shock itself, as there appears to be some sort of lever- acting > > > deal down at the bottom. Anyone out there BTDT with this? Getting to > the > > > dealer in Portland is a PITA, and I would rather patronize Rusty. > > > > I've had success with Rusty just telling him the location of the bushing, > > what it appeared to do, the year of the car, and the relative size, then > > gotten the right one in the mail. > > > > K > > > > -- > > Kevin Pekarek > > Redwood City, CA (near San Francisco) and > > Los Osos, CA (near San Luis Obispo) > > > > > > > > > -- > Netpath User mzylka > > > Mike M. in Ann Arbor, MI > '74 914 2.0, '75 914 1.8, '82 300D TurboDiesel > Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz > My friends all drive Porsches, I must make amends > Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. - -- Netpath User mzylka ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 20:09:25 -0500 From: Edward Pomeroy Subject: Re: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) Further to the treatsie below, when the frozen caliper fails to move at all, remove assemby from vehicle, put a LARGE C clamp on the side that is not stuck, such that it cannot move out of the sleeve (ask me how I learned this), take a spare brake line nipple from scrap bin, thread to mate with business end of grease gun, preferably one with 1 ft or longer pump handle and well built pump mechanism, load with grease, clamp (with care) the caliper in vice to keep it immobile (you will need both hands to deal with the grease gun), wrap frozen piston and caliper with 5 or 6 turns of old t-shirt or shop pants strips (not OSHA standards but it works), stand behind caliper such that the frozen piston will shoot away from you, pump grease gun until it explodes outwards. Wear safety glasses as well, just in case).Note, if both pistons are seized, you can get away with a piece of wood that is about 1/4" narrower than the space between pistons. One will blow loose first, then you revert to the C-clamp on the one that moved. This method has worked for me on many a frozen Volvo and Jaguar caliper in the past (have not started on the 220 yet). Once apart, disassemble both pistons, clean all with solvent then with denatured alcohol, blow all passages dry, follow the inspection process to see if you can salvage the piston(s) and check the cylinders are not pitted. DOT3/4 and GIRLING fluids are hygroscopic, 30 or 40 years of use allows water to settle in there, does a real number of the cylinder walls. If lucky, clean and re-assemble with new seals, if unlucky, you can get the piston sleeved by White Post restorations (don't know if he is still in business, last re-seleeve was about 10 years back), if "black clouds and lightining" unlucky, chuck the whole thing in the bin and get another caliper from your friendly supplier. As you can tell, I am one of those that will spend 4 days to fix cheap part and 7 months of evening work to fix an expensive one. Cheers, Edward Paul Brown wrote: > Unless you have a bigger tool chest than I have, don't try to remove > pistons from calipers when the caliper is off the car. Instead, > remove the pads from the caliper. (If one piston only is frozen, > remove only the corresponding pad.) Turn on the engine to provide > vacuum to the power brake system. Stomp on the brake pedal as if it > was your 3 year old daughter in front of the car and you were doing 40 > mph (as contrasted with the amount of pedal pressure you would use if > the lady down the street who lets her dog do its business on your lawn > were in front of the car). Do it again. And again. Examine > caliper. "Frozen" piston should have moved substantially. Repeat > braking motions until piston is against brake rotor. Remove remaining > pad. Press repeatedly on brake until second piston is against rotor. > (Pedal pressure requrired should be considerably less for > freely-moving piston.) Disconnect brake line from caliper, allowing > line to drain into suitable container. Remove freely-moving piston > from caliper. Curse as 40 ml of brake fluid runs over hands. Remove > remaining piston from caliper, using pliers or vice grips on > unpolished portion of piston as necessary. > > Examine polished surfaces of pistons & machined surfaces of piston > bores to determine if you should just have bought a new caliper in the > first place. > > Robert Chase wrote: > >> Heh heh, >> >> Did I mention the caliper was frozen? As in after trying to push it >> in with several LARGE C clamps I failed miserably? Its chipped on >> one corner so it looks like the previous owner must have let some >> idiots service the brakes. If I could get the piston out of the >> caliper I would be happy. Of course this is after even removing the >> caliper from the car. >> Robert Chase >> >> >> Paul Brown wrote: >> >>> An even cheaper decision would be to order a rebuild kit and replace >>> the >>> rubber parts yourself. Educational, too, to remove a piston and see >>> what years of moisture has generated while nobody was looking. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 20:19:40 -0500 From: "Steve Morelen" Subject: RE: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) I know that for at least one of the 123 model cars, MB was fitting calipers made by Ate, Bendix and Girling. The key thing is to make sure that the piston diameters match if you are going to replace only one caliper. I suppose the easiest way to do this is to not mix manufacturers on front or back of the car. I replaced a single caliper on the front of my car using a new Ate (original calipers were Ate) and did a very careful road test and found no difference in braking action, new vs original...I replaced the other side a week later as both original calipers were leaking. I bought my new Ate's from Rusty. As regards rebuilding... I would imagine that if a piston were frozen (presumably from corrosion in the piston-cylinder interface) the caliper could not be successfully rebuilt. My MB manual states explicitly that corrosion-damaged calipers should be replaced, not repaired. Good Luck- Steve Morelen '84 300D >From: Robert Chase >To: 126-at-mbz.org, 'Diesel Benz' >Subject: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) >Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 13:25:50 -0500 > >Uuuugh..... > >So I made the decision to tear into my braking system and was suprised with >a frozen caliper. Im thinking of replacing both but when I inquired at the >local parts place regarding the part they wanted to know if my car had >Bendix or ATE braking system. I have a feeling that they just don't know >what they are doing and either will work but there is a price difference. >Anybody care to shed some light on this subject for me? > >Robert Chase _________________________________________________________________ Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 06:37:59 -0800 From: Greg Fiorentino Subject: Re: [db] Brakes or the distinct lack therof :) At 10:25 AM 2/23/04 , Robert Chase wrote: >Uuuugh..... > >So I made the decision to tear into my braking system and was suprised >with a frozen caliper. Im thinking of replacing both but when I inquired >at the local parts place regarding the part they wanted to know if my car >had Bendix or ATE braking system. I have a feeling that they just don't >know what they are doing and either will work but there is a price >difference. Anybody care to shed some light on this subject for me? > >Robert Chase Having read some replies: I concur with those who say replace both with the same brand that are there. Brakes are no place to get cute with theory. Everyone will take the lesson that brake fluid should be renewed periodically. Here is one preventive maintenance item that is usually overlooked. I think every 2 years is reasonable. A liter of good stuff costs about $8, and will do two or more cars. Using a mity-vac it is an easy and quick job. I used the blue stuff to replace the red; it was easy to see when all the old stuff was out. Next change I'll use red. Greg Fiorentino Vancouver USA gfior-at-dslnorthwest.net '86 300SDL Turbo '84 300D Turbo '79 300TD '85 F-350 6.9 crew cab ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1373 **********************************