From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Wed Jun 9 18:36:07 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Thursday, June 10 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1482 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: RE: [db] Help...I need somebody! Re: [db] Help...I need somebody! Re: [db] Help...I need somebody! RE: [db] Help...I need somebody! [db] Ignition Lock on a 190 [db] Re: Help...I need somebody! [db] Auctions in the northeast? [db] Brake pad warning light Re: [db] Brake pad warning light Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 18:06:30 -0700 From: "derick" Subject: RE: [db] Help...I need somebody! Uh oh, Justin, I have been here and done this, so has John. The good news is, You have the time intensive part out of the way removing everything around the assembly. Dash included I hope. It is a job your going to need a sawzall with a metal blade and you will need to be carefull. You will need to cut the steering lock above the fastening collar. There are two ways to do this. 1. Cut the stem in place. 2. Remove the steering column and cut the stem on a vise. In either case there is one problem you will need to overcome with a drill once the locking mechanism is free and swinging on its wires. There is a plug on the back of the assembly that can only be removed if the ignition is in the number "1" position, else a locking lever holds the plug on. (look at picture link below) You need to remove the switch assembly from the steering lock as a whole by removing the 3 fasteners UNDERNEATH that plug. This is done using a 1/4 to 5/16 drill bit drilling through the back of the plug to expose the screws. To determine where to drill look at the outside case of the lock assembly and you can see the bumps where the screws are. Take a look at the pictures of one on my auction and you will see what I am talking about. (this setup is for a 300d but just like yours but order one for a 190). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2481335928 Unscrew the fasteners and the switch will come off. The you will be able to turn the switch by hand so you can remove the plug. To separate the plug though you will need access to the rear which means you will have to either do Number 1 or 2 above. 1. To cut it in place use a sawzall and cut just a 1/4" above where the locking collar is then move the cut steering assembly off to the side. Remove the locking collar by removing the 10mm bolt and prying it apart and slide it off. Use a pair of pliers to remove what is left of the plung rod from the center. Now use a scratch awl or small screw driver to push in the retaining pin and pull the remainder of the stem out of the steering wheel column. 2. I recommend you remove the steering column and do the above proceedure on a vise where you have more control over the sawzall and less chance of ooopppsss. Installing the new setup. I choose to install my new locking cylinder into the steering lock before I installed the steering lock back into the column. Makes it easy to do it on a vise. I will make a recommendation. If you have the means, replace the electrical contact switch while you have everything out. Also check the condition of the vacuum cutout and warning switches. Good luck and feel free to email with any questions. I am sure John has more he would like to add. Derick - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.701 / Virus Database: 458 - Release Date: 6/7/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 18:56:42 -0700 From: john meister Subject: Re: [db] Help...I need somebody! can't think of anything to add, as usual derick has provided excellent information.... I do concur on replacing the parts with factory parts, of course, in the process. I was fortunate enough to have a mechanic friend who makes house calls, my lock failed in my carport and my friend had done this before... I can't recall if I still have pix on my server or not. I came dangerously close to repeating this episode with my '91 300d. the lock fell apart when it was pulled during the replacement... I was living on borrowed time. :) good luck... john derick wrote: > Uh oh, > > Justin, > > I have been here and done this, so has John. > > The good news is, You have the time intensive part out of the way removing > everything around the assembly. > Dash included I hope. > > It is a job your going to need a sawzall with a metal blade and you will > need to be carefull. > You will need to cut the steering lock above the fastening collar. > There are two ways to do this. > > 1. Cut the stem in place. > 2. Remove the steering column and cut the stem on a vise. > > In either case there is one problem you will need to overcome with a drill > once the locking mechanism is free and swinging on its wires. > > There is a plug on the back of the assembly that can only be removed if the > ignition is in the number "1" position, else a locking lever holds the plug > on. (look at picture link below) > You need to remove the switch assembly from the steering lock as a whole by > removing the 3 fasteners UNDERNEATH that plug. > > This is done using a 1/4 to 5/16 drill bit drilling through the back of the > plug to expose the screws. > To determine where to drill look at the outside case of the lock assembly > and you can see the bumps where the screws are. > Take a look at the pictures of one on my auction and you will see what I am > talking about. (this setup is for a 300d but just like yours but order one > for a 190). > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2481335928 > > > Unscrew the fasteners and the switch will come off. The you will be able to > turn the switch by hand so you can remove the plug. > > To separate the plug though you will need access to the rear which means you > will have to either do Number 1 or 2 above. > > 1. To cut it in place use a sawzall and cut just a 1/4" above where the > locking collar is then move the cut steering assembly off to the side. > Remove the locking collar by removing the 10mm bolt and prying it apart and > slide it off. Use a pair of pliers to remove what is left of the plung rod > from the center. Now use a scratch awl or small screw driver to push in the > retaining pin and pull the remainder of the stem out of the steering wheel > column. > > 2. I recommend you remove the steering column and do the above proceedure on > a vise where you have more control over the sawzall and less chance of > ooopppsss. > > Installing the new setup. > > I choose to install my new locking cylinder into the steering lock before I > installed the steering lock back into the column. Makes it easy to do it on > a vise. > > I will make a recommendation. If you have the means, replace the electrical > contact switch while you have everything out. > Also check the condition of the vacuum cutout and warning switches. > > Good luck and feel free to email with any questions. I am sure John has more > he would like to add. > > Derick > > > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.701 / Virus Database: 458 - Release Date: 6/7/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 19:02:10 -0700 From: john meister Subject: Re: [db] Help...I need somebody! I thought drilling wasn't an option... surprised they said that, they're the ones that told me they used a sawzall... oh well... I guess you could try to drill it out, but for some reason that didn't seem like an option... if you can wait until the weekend I could send my mechanic friend down your way, he's reasonable and could use some extra bucks right now too... he's working swings up in everett as a machinist, not sure what his schedule is like, he does forest fire fighting in the summer... I'm down in CA but I can give him a call... let me know. john Justin H wrote: > hehe...Beatles. Anyway, finally ordered a new key for the 190, and to > my horor, the jerk of a former owner changed the original ignition > tumbler out, without mentioning anythig about it, or keeping any record > of it! Needless to say, I got my key and it worked on all my doors > (including trunk and GloveBox) but the most crucial component of all, my > ignition is still frozen in time, ever taunting me :(( > > Heres the score: On order to fix this I must order a new tumbler lock, > and steering lock, and replace the old. Now in all my time with cars > I've never gotten into this job, and really don't know what to do. My > entire interior is stripped out already giving me a clean sight of the > ignition assembly, te problem is I dont know where to begin from there. > Phil smart M-Benz dealer in Seattle said they would drill the ignition > out? Well, could I just rip it out with a dent-puller (Honda style) or > do I hae to drill, drill, drill? > > I hope one of ya guys has encountered this before, and can maybe > offer some advice. Pics, diagrams, warnings, or instruction of any kind > would be GREATLY appreciated. I have just recently finished all the > engine work, and was eagerly awaiting my first start-up and Drive. Hope > someone can help. > > Much TIA, > > -Justin H > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page ^V > FREE download! > http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 19:31:25 -0700 From: "derick" Subject: RE: [db] Help...I need somebody! I agree... In my opinion it is NOT an option. Please do yourself a favor DO NOT DRILL THIS OUT. This is a Mercedes not a GM. I think of it this way.... If I drill it out, reef, prise and pull to get the cylinder out. That puts allot of stress and metal filings into the assembly. Or I drill it out and screw something up and have to replace it anyhow. Or ooopps my bit breaks off and I hit the wiring harness. or.... you get the picture I am sure. :) So drilling, in my opinion, is NOT the way to attack this. Good Luck Derick - -----Original Message----- From: john meister [mailto:john-at-wagoneers.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:02 PM To: Justin H Cc: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: Re: [db] Help...I need somebody! I thought drilling wasn't an option... surprised they said that, they're the ones that told me they used a sawzall... oh well... I guess you could try to drill it out, but for some reason that didn't seem like an option... if you can wait until the weekend I could send my mechanic friend down your way, he's reasonable and could use some extra bucks right now too... he's working swings up in everett as a machinist, not sure what his schedule is like, he does forest fire fighting in the summer... I'm down in CA but I can give him a call... let me know. john Justin H wrote: > hehe...Beatles. Anyway, finally ordered a new key for the 190, and to > my horor, the jerk of a former owner changed the original ignition > tumbler out, without mentioning anythig about it, or keeping any record > of it! Needless to say, I got my key and it worked on all my doors > (including trunk and GloveBox) but the most crucial component of all, my > ignition is still frozen in time, ever taunting me :(( > > Heres the score: On order to fix this I must order a new tumbler lock, > and steering lock, and replace the old. Now in all my time with cars > I've never gotten into this job, and really don't know what to do. My > entire interior is stripped out already giving me a clean sight of the > ignition assembly, te problem is I dont know where to begin from there. > Phil smart M-Benz dealer in Seattle said they would drill the ignition > out? Well, could I just rip it out with a dent-puller (Honda style) or > do I hae to drill, drill, drill? > > I hope one of ya guys has encountered this before, and can maybe > offer some advice. Pics, diagrams, warnings, or instruction of any kind > would be GREATLY appreciated. I have just recently finished all the > engine work, and was eagerly awaiting my first start-up and Drive. Hope > someone can help. > > Much TIA, > > -Justin H > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page ^V > FREE download! > http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/ - --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.701 / Virus Database: 458 - Release Date: 6/7/2004 - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.701 / Virus Database: 458 - Release Date: 6/7/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:38:23 -0400 From: "wmpless" Subject: [db] Ignition Lock on a 190 Hello, My understanding is that ig. lock insert has to be drilled out if unable to stick the 2 pins in. www.importpartsauthority.com offer new locks at a very competitive price. These 2 metal pins can be made from a wire coat hanger. Wire should be cut at angle of 45 DR. the slightly longer side should be on the outside when inserting. Lock failure a regular problem on older 190 cars. Cheers ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 08:33:37 -0500 From: Flash Subject: [db] Re: Help...I need somebody! > hehe...Beatles. Anyway, finally ordered a new key for the 190, and to my > horor, the jerk of a former owner changed the original ignition tumbler out, > without mentioning anythig about it, or keeping any record of it! Needless > to say, I got my key and it worked on all my doors (including trunk and > GloveBox) but the most crucial component of all, my ignition is still frozen > in time, ever taunting me :(( > > Heres the score: On order to fix this I must order a new tumbler lock, > and steering lock, and replace the old. Now in all my time with cars I've > never gotten into this job, and really don't know what to do. My entire > interior is stripped out already giving me a clean sight of the ignition > assembly, te problem is I dont know where to begin from there. Phil smart > M-Benz dealer in Seattle said they would drill the ignition out? Well, could > I just rip it out with a dent-puller (Honda style) or do I hae to drill, > drill, drill? > > I hope one of ya guys has encountered this before, and can maybe offer > some advice. Pics, diagrams, warnings, or instruction of any kind would be > GREATLY appreciated. I have just recently finished all the engine work, and > was eagerly awaiting my first start-up and Drive. Hope someone can help. > > Much TIA, > > -Justin H Justin - Just be patient and using the old key, with front wheels off ground, perhaps, jiggle the key, move the steering, over and over again - there is oftentimes one last chance you have before you drill. Drill is hard way out, really, and expensive if you have Smart do the job. Get some decent java - you gots lots of that up there, eh? and take your time. Once you turn the key - do not, repeat, do not remove it until the cylinder is out. DanG ChicagoArea '81 240D with clutch ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:26:05 -0400 From: "J.B. Hebert" Subject: [db] Auctions in the northeast? Does anyone know of any auctions like the Dallas Can Academy auctions that are in the northeast, or more specifically MA? I am still unsuccessful in my search for a donor 240D for my tranny escapades. An auction might be the best way to go. Thanks in advance! J.B. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 20:50:26 -0400 From: Edward Pomeroy Subject: [db] Brake pad warning light The brake pad warning light has started to glow fitfully, goes off after brake applied but is faint with braking, sometimes glows on curve with no breaks applied!. This is a 1993 300E 2.5 Turbo Diesel. Can someone tell me how much time I have before the pads score the disk? This symptom just started this morning and I do not have time to get new pads installed for another 200 miles or so. Thanks to all in advance. Edward ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 18:40:46 -0700 From: john meister Subject: Re: [db] Brake pad warning light should be ok for a while... problem is you might score your rotors or damage the sensors... just go easy on the brakes for a bit and you should be ok. :) john Edward Pomeroy wrote: > The brake pad warning light has started to glow fitfully, goes off > after brake applied but is faint with braking, sometimes glows on curve > with no breaks applied!. > > This is a 1993 300E 2.5 Turbo Diesel. Can someone tell me how much > time I have before the pads score the disk? This symptom just started > this morning and I do not have time to get new pads installed for > another 200 miles or so. > > Thanks to all in advance. > > Edward ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1482 **********************************