From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sun Jun 27 20:00:27 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Monday, June 28 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1494 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] annual oil leak RE: [db] annual oil leak [db] Ebay 300d parts round 8 [db] w210 glow plug fest Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 15:48:06 -0700 From: john meister Subject: Re: [db] annual oil leak did they replace all the lines? sounds like the oil pressure gauge... or it could be the vacuum lines... or, it could just be marking it's territory... full size jeeps do that sort of thing too... ;) john Anaeis N wrote: > Dear guys, > > Why on earth does my '82 300CD have another oil leak in the driver's compartment? Professionals replaced the gauge cluster last year due to the same problem, and my paperwork tells me that it was also replaced in the mid-90s. What gives? > > Thanks, > R > '82 300CD -- 232 k > Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 16:12:53 -0700 From: "derick amburgey" Subject: RE: [db] annual oil leak Hello, Well I can think of 3 things. 1. The oil gauge is leaking. "Again" 2. The flare fitting to the back of the oil gauge came loose and its leaking. 3. The oil capillary tube coming from the oil filter housing rubbed against the firewall and developed a leak. In which case I would inspect the entry hole and see if the rubber grommet that covers the bare metal firewall port is still serviceable, if not replace it. Them there diesels have a whole lotta shakin goin on! :) Here is what I would look at first.... Since you have had this problem 2x in the past I would yank that capillary tube and replace it. What is your oil pressure at idle after she warms up? All the Benz I have owned show around the 2 bar mark at idle. If you are pegging the gauge at idle after its is warmed up you have other lubrication issues or your idle is really high. (idle = 600 rpm for my 190d). Derick - -----Original Message----- From: Anaeis N [mailto:anaeisn-at-yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 2:34 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: [db] annual oil leak Dear guys, Why on earth does my '82 300CD have another oil leak in the driver's compartment? Professionals replaced the gauge cluster last year due to the same problem, and my paperwork tells me that it was also replaced in the mid-90s. What gives? Thanks, R '82 300CD -- 232 k Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! - --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.711 / Virus Database: 467 - Release Date: 6/25/2004 - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.711 / Virus Database: 467 - Release Date: 6/25/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 20:05:59 -0700 From: "derick amburgey" Subject: [db] Ebay 300d parts round 8 Hello, starting it early due to the 4th of July next Sunday. This lot includes: Small windows, remaining modules, Vacuum stuff, relays, Fuel door and 1st aid compartment. User name Babatoots Thanks. Derick - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.711 / Virus Database: 467 - Release Date: 6/25/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:46:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Richard Welty Subject: [db] w210 glow plug fest [this starts with a narrative of the repair, and includes with a serious question about something that went wrong during the task. the question is marked QUESTION so you can skip the narrative if you find these things boring. i'm also sending this, separately, to the offtopic list, as i know there are some non-benz diesel guys hanging out there who may be able to address the QUESTION] there don't seem to be too many owners of newer diesel benzes on the list, so i may be the first to go through this particular repair experience. i bought a set of glow plugs for my wife's 96 E300D from rusty a while back, but never got around to installing them. at some point i realized they were buried way under the intake manifold, and in the absence of a shop manual, i was a bit concerned about the magnitude of the chore. however, after a benz mechanic i know said it was about 2 hours, i decided it might be worth a shot at doing it myself. unusual tools required: T40 Torx socket (available from home depot, lowes, sears, etc.) popsicle sticks or tongue depressors (tongue depressors are wider and work a little better, ask your doctor for them. my dad was a pediatrician, so they were common household implements when i was growing up. dad used to use them when labeling his orchids, he'd write a description on the depressor and stick it in the pot.) not quite-as-unusual unusual tools required: big rubber mallet 6mm allen head socket conventional tools required: usual rachet wrench and extensions 10mm socket 12mm deep socket big pry bar step 1 is to remove the tube running from the throttle body (on the passenger side) to the intake manifold (on the drivers side.) there's a 6mm allen head bolt on the driver's side, and a bunch of 10mm bolts for the bracket on the passenger's side. leave one of the bolts holding the bracket onto the block, and it'll rotate out of the way. here is where it's good to have one of those big rubber mallets to knock the tube free; there are a couple of press fits here. a pry bar may help separating the tube from the throttle body assembly; it's a fairly snug press fit (you'll understand after you get the tube out.) also, don't break the plastic cover over the injectors while you're removing the tube (you're more likely to break the cover reinstalling the tube, but it could happen at either time.) disconnect the rubber vacuum line going to a nefarious looking device on the bottom of the tube, and set the tube aside. remove the plastic cover over the tops of the injectors; there are 8 6mm allen head bolts here. if you drop one, you'll never see it again. set the plastic cover aside. there is an odd assemblage of rubber and plastic tubing running from another nefarious looking device on top of the head to each intake port. in theory you could pop the rubber nipples out of the intake manifold; in practice they are old and brittle and may tear off. i'll be calling rusty to order replacements in the morning. probably on an older motor they're completely plugged up and aren't doing anything right now anyway. more on that later. you can pull the plastic tubes running to the nefarious device out at the device itself. there are two electrical connectors to yet another nefarious device on the bottom of the manifold, and a vacuum line that may already have been accidently disconnected during the life of the car. disconnect these. there is an additional vacuum line hanging loose; this is the one that you disconnected from the tube over the top earlier. there are a lot of torx screws (T40) holding the manifold onto the head. remove them, and don't drop them. same warning about never seeing them again applies. if you remove them all, the manifold will just drop off. if it isn't dropping off, you haven't removed all of them yet. the intake manifold should now lift out. the manifold gasket may well be reusable if you forgot to acquire a replacement before you started the job. that's another item i'll be ordering from rusty tomorrow. you could leave the manifold sitting in the engine compartment (which would allow you to leave the electrical and vacuum lines in place), but it's much easier to get at the glow plugs if the manifold is completely removed. there are a few electrical connections that may need to be disconnected to devices on the block next to cylinders 5 and 6 for better access, and there's a harness with a fuel line and some electrical connectors bolted to the carrier for the oil filter that will be in the way for the glow plug on cylinder 6. remove the 10mm bolt from the carrier for the oil filter and move things around as needed. now we're coming up to the QUESTION: in my case, 4 of the glow plugs came out easily (1,2,5, and 6). two did not. a 12mm deep socket is needed to clear the top of the glow pug. in my case, the plug in cylinder 3 required much effort, but i got it done. the plug in cylinder 4 is the problem. the "nut" section sheared off from the body of the plug, so i have a small amount of plug sticking out of the block. anyond got any thoughts on how to get it out? (with 5 new plugs and one dead one, we're still better off than we were before, with 2 dead plugs, 2 nearly dead plugs, and 2 very tired plugs.) and for some observations: 1) the glow plug in cylinder 1 was wet with sooty black oil. anyone know why this might be the case? all of the other plugs were carboned up, but dry. 2) all the intake runners were pretty sooty. the outermost ones (cylinders 1 and 6) were dry and sooty. the closer to the middle you got, the more that they were full of a gooey mixture of oil and soot. the small ports where the rubber lines from the nefarious device on top of the head were completely clogged for the most part. i took some tongue depressors and scraped a lot of it out, but i wished i had a parts cleaner handy. finishing is the reverse of disassembly, but watch it when you put the tube across the top back in. some previous mechanic wasn't careful, and cracked the plastic cover. i've since replaced that cover; it's not critical, just a dust and debris cover for the injector area, but there's no reason why you should crack it out of carelessness. richard - -- Richard Welty rwelty-at-averillpark.net Averill Park Networking 518-573-7592 Java, PHP, PostgreSQL, Unix, Linux, IP Network Engineering, Security ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1494 **********************************