From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sat Aug 14 17:11:48 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Saturday, August 14 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1532 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: [db] kRONIKLES Re: [db] kRONIKLES [db] FS: 4.0L/aw4/ custom adapter NP219 and other stuff... [db] Tune up Re: Subject: Re: [db] Army uses used motor oil as fuel RE: [db] kRONIKLES RE: [db] Buying First Diesel Tomorrow, What to Look For? Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 23:21:57 -0400 From: Jason R Bassett Subject: [db] kRONIKLES Changed the oil tonight, and installed an expansion tank out of a Buick (you should see how I got that tied in there!) I had instended to give it a valve job and change the tranny fluid (ATF) but ran into some problemos. First I ran out of time, but then also I found an interesting issue.......just looking at the thing in the package, I can see that the gasket included with the filter is NOT for my car. This makes me question whether the filter is right or not as well. Did Rusty goof and ship the wrong part, or is there something I'm missing? Rusty I think is on the list and may clear things up a bit. I hope so. I wanted to get that done this weekend and doubt that I will. Oh well.....3 outta 4 ain't too bad.... On the oil subject, I am planning to at least try UMO and see what happens. Since it is normally involved with the same types of materials as the diesel fuel is (and is basically made of the same stuff) I don't expect anything bad to happen at all. I figure the worst that is even remotely likely some diesel purge will clean out. So as soon as I get my Racor and second tank, I'll give it a shot. (I already have many of the other pieces; I've been accumulating them over the past year and a half.) As for the tax-nazis, don't worry about them. They can't touch it for the same reasons that they can't touch WVO. 1) The motor vehicle fuel tax is a SALES TAX. Granted, it is a weird one because it is a per gallon rather than a per dollar tax, but it is a SALES TAX nonetheless. This does not apply to WVO or UMO because the stuff is not being sold; you either made it yourself or had it given to you. Either way you no money is changing hands so unKle sAm can't get hIs sticKy fingers on it. 2) Even if it were sold, the "gas" tax only applies to fuels sold for use in motor vehicles on state-owned roads. UMO and WVO are not defined as fuels, and so could be sold as food and water; IE, % tax only. SOOOOO........I'm looking forward to seeing how this works out. My Grandpa has a lot of UMO hanging around his garage......here comes Santa Clause... Jason BTW.....if my messages bug you, either don't read them or laugh your head off. Either way the problem will be solved. ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 08:28:48 -0400 From: Jason R Bassett Subject: Re: [db] kRONIKLES writes: > > 26 USC 4083(a)(3) > The term 'diesel fuel' means any liquid (other than > gasoline) which is suitable for use as a fuel in a > diesel-powered highway vehicle or a diesel-powered > train. > > Connecicut Genera; Statutes > 12-455a(b) > "Fuels" means (1) fuels as defined in section 14-1 and > (2) any other combustible gas or liquid suitable for > the generation of power to propel motor vehicles; > Interesting...but heating oil is quite suitable at most times of the year. This definition is way too vague to really be useful. "Suitable?" What ever happened to marketing intent? Anyway, just remind me to never get greedy and try to sell any UMO without taxes for the road. Hey, does the biodiesel process work on UMO? Jason ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 09:55:30 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] FS: 4.0L/aw4/ custom adapter NP219 and other stuff... FS: '96 4.0L HO (xj), AW4, adapater & NP219 35x12.5 cooper discover radial stt's on 6 lug rims np219 genie-aire portable 12,000 btu ac unit '83 gmc jimmy body with interior and axles (available later) wagoneer grilles (late 60's-early 70's, mid-70's) misc. - ----------------------------- details: - -------- FSJ ECONOMY SPECIAL: Love your FullSizeJeep but can't afford to drive it? Have I got the solution for you... :) I need to sell this driveline... a nice '96 xj 4.0L HO / AW4 / custom adapter mating to an NP219... I was going to use it in my '83 J10 stepside (superdawg)(had: 4.2L/T-5/NP208) I estimate that it'll get between 15 and 20 mpg in most any FSJ, a lot better then the 8-12 mpg that the AMC V8 gets. It probably won't smoke the tires, but it will pass more gas stations. I believe the performance and towing capability will be acceptable. I've bought a GM 6.2L Diesel for my project... so I need to sell the 4.0L setup... I'm expecting 18 to 20mpg with it. I wanted to do a Mercedes Diesel but the HP/torque wasn't quite there... Below you can see that the HP/Torque of this 4.0L is well within the range needed to propel an FSJ. 96 - XJ 4.0L - 185 hp -at- 4,600 - 220 ft lbs -at- 2,400 <-- THIS ENGINE 83 - J10 4.2L - 115 hp -at- 3,200 - 210 ft lbs -at- 1,800 <-- original I-6 83 - J10 360V8 - 129 hp -at- 3,700 - 245 ft lbs -at- 1,600 <-- comparable AMC V8 83 - 300SD 3.0L - 125 hp -at- 4,350 - 170 ft lbs -at- 2,400 (TURBO) <-- Turbo Diesel (other engine specs at: http://www.wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/engine-specs.html ) the 4.0L/AW4/NP219 comes with all the computers ... the engine is south of Seattle, north of Portland near I-5. Have a few other accessories and replacement parts for the 4.0L. The 4.0L came out of a wrecked '96 xj 2 dr sport, the damage was to the right front fender, axle and side. Engine runs superbly, but has been sitting for 4 years now. I paid about $1,600 for it off of ebay. I bought a new timing chain, gaskets, water pump and a few other "tune up" items for it. Also purchased a new exhaust header that is reinforced and won't crack, paid about $150 for that alone. The AW4 comes with the computer and shift linkage. It came out of a '96 and is 23 spline. The custom adapter was machined from a round aluminum alloy stock, cost $65. Machining to mate the NP219 to the AW4 cost me around $300. Not cheap, but the NP219 xfr case and the AW4 were worth having. I don't want to go through the expense of building another adapter for the 700r4. contact me off list for a package price, or to make an offer on all or part of the goodies... I'm LOOKING for a driver's side drop NP208/NP241 Chevy/GMC xfr case to mate to the 700R4 so I can use the existing Jeep Dana 44 axle. Will exchange for the pass side drop I have in the '83 GMC Jimmy or buy outright. Also, will be selling a straight body '83 GMC Jimmy Sierra Classic with axles, new brakes, intact interior, etc. as soon as we pull the engine/trans, brake booster, rad, etc. pictures of the Jimmy will be at: http://www.wagoneers.com/SuperDawg/DawgYear2004/JimmyDiesel/ It's a nice looking rig, but needs some TLC. Paint, etc. NO RUST. It drove out nicely, has power windows/locks. It's too nice to send to the crusher. I'll probably put another engine in it or just sell it off to someone with a wrecked Blazer/Jimmy. It makes a lovely lawn ornament... can see it from the kitchen window. ;) All the engine, hydroboost, and trans related items will be used in the conversion. The column shifter and steering column will not, will remain with the body. I will also be selling my extra NP219 xfr case. I have a mid-60's to mid-70's Wagoneer style grille, a '76-'78 grille and a number of odds and ends like handles and such. Pix at: http://www.wagoneers.com/FSJ/PARTS/ I have a complete set of XJ rims, steel, like what is on my '87 xj on my main web page: http://wagoneers.com The 35x12.5" Cooper Radial STT's http://www.wagoneers.com/FSJ/PARTS/35x12-1.jpg won't fit the Jimmy without cutting, so I need to sell them as well. My son paid $750 for them on these rims about a year ago, used them about three months. They're in excellent condition, run out smooth... make me an offer. They have to go... also have another set of xj rims with tires that a friend needs to sell. Have a Genie-Aire 12,000 BTU portable airconditioner that works great, used it for a few months but went with a window unit instead. This portable unit has the adapters to vent through a door or window or into another room. Very nice and well engineered system. Was featured in Design Magazine when it came out. Fry's Electronics sells lesser units for $500 to $650. I'm asking $290 for this one. other for sale stuff at: http://www.wagoneers.com/ForSale/ (stargate sg-1 dvd sets 1-6, textbooks, etc...) sad thing is many of these items are not easily shipped. They could be put on a pallet and trucked though... local parts make more sense... delivery within 100 miles or so of Seattle is possible for costs. Engine/trans is halfway between Portland, OR and Seattle, WA. Tires, AC, grilles and NP219 near Snohomish, WA. ALSO, my son is looking for a Mercedes V8 engine down in Tucson, AZ. He wants to make his '82 300D (123 chassis) into a "sleeper". He'll consider Ford v8's as well... ;) He's also interested in any FSJ's that might be down there, especially '60's vintage J-trucks. He'll be parting with his 3.0L Turbo Diesel out of his '82 300D to do the V8 swap. The 3.0L has over 275,000 miles on it. He's at the air force base there... Apologize for the long post... thanx, dieseljohn-at-comcast.net ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 14:10:44 -0700 From: "Justin H" Subject: [db] Tune up Hello everyone, Enjoying this weather I hope. Anyways, I have completed all important work on my 190 as of yesterday (Finally got my new Brake lens installed) And the beuty is ready for Emissions (I hope) and fresh tabs. I will then be taking her on her fist road trip to White River. I just wanted to make sure that she was up to par, Tuned up, etc. However being this is my first Diesel I am not completely familiar with all that Im looking for. Keeping in mind that She has been ran only a few times (Recently) in the last 2 years, can you all contribute to a list of tune-up procedures, And anything else I might like to look out for. Also, I have noticed a small leak coming from a Fitting I am unfamiliar with. It is a coolant line coming out of my Engine block on the rear right side, I am pretty sure it goes into my heater core. Any help is appreciated. TIA, Justin _________________________________________________________________ Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 14:28:03 -0700 From: "Dan Jacobs" Subject: Re: Subject: Re: [db] Army uses used motor oil as fuel > Less mess? Used motor oil (UMO) smells like a cross between motor oil and > exhaust. WVO smells like a cross between french fries and a rotting > corpse. Even if WVO is a lighter color, the consequences of a WVO spill > are much nastier IMHO than anything with UMO ever could be. Unless of > course, you happen to spill it in the living room........ You could probably spill a few gallons of WVO near (YVO Near MV) a water source and not cause an environmental night mare. Spill UMO near a water source, and hang on tight, your in for one hell of a ride if the environmental folks, especially the ones that work for the government, find out you did that. One gallon of used motor oil really can contaminate a lot of water. I wouldn't drink it, but if you want to, to prove a point, you go right ahead. > Exhaust that smells like french fries. This is a BIG selling point too, > since the only one who (normally) smells your exhaust is the people > behind you. So either they think it stinks (which most people do already) > or they get hungry and Burger King sponsors you as advertising.......(I > wish) I don't normally smell my exhaust, only occasionally during startup > if the wind is just right or if I am analyzing it. I'm not really > concerned about the people behind me, but if I were, UMO would be my > choice because WVO could be contributing to the obesity problem in this > country and be badgering them into wasting their money on food that costs > about 5 times as much as it would to make it themselves. Usually, after thinly veiled sarcasm is used in this particular communication medium, it is useful to include a "smiley", or ;-) , at the end of a sentence or paragraph. If you intentionally left out the smiley because this is really how you feel about it, then you worry too much about the wrong things. Go have a hamburger and shut up ;-) (note the smiley in the appropriate place?) > BTW, please pardon my cynicism. I am very sleep-deprived, and tend to be > a bit cynical anyhow. I am not upset at anyone, least of all Waylon. I > just think it's fun to point out illogicalities, and it's usually got > comic potential. Just laugh at my estimations; it's good to laugh. I love > this "club" and hope that it is getting as many chuckles out of this > whole UMO (WVO) discussion as I am. Maybe, maybe not, but as long as your happy... ;-) Diesel "Cynicism should always walk hand in hand with comedy and sarcasm" Dan ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 14:27:02 -0700 From: "Dan Jacobs" Subject: RE: [db] kRONIKLES - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Jacobs" To: "Jason R Bassett" Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2004 2:11 PM Subject: Re: [db] kRONIKLES > > As for the tax-nazis, don't worry about them. They can't touch it for the > > same reasons that they can't touch WVO. > > Oh, no. Worry. Not much for most of us, but worry a lot if you are > knowingly using dyed fuel in an on highway vehicle. > > > 1) The motor vehicle fuel tax is a SALES TAX. Granted, it is a weird one > > because it is a per gallon rather than a per dollar tax, but it is a > > SALES TAX nonetheless. This does not apply to WVO or UMO because the > > stuff is not being sold; you either made it yourself or had it given to > > you. Either way you no money is changing hands so unKle sAm can't get hIs > > sticKy fingers on it. > > No, this is mostly wrong. In WA, and as far as the fed's are concerned, it > is a type of "road" or "use" tax. I'm not exactly sure what they call it, > but it is not to be avoided. If it was a sales tax, it would, at least > according to WA state law, be tied to the dollar amount of the purchase, not > the volume (gallon). > > A few years ago, when diesel was reformulated to low sulfur, fuel > wholesalers were requiered to start using red dye to differentiate the off > road (high sulfur) non-taxed fuel from the low sulfur on road taxes paid on > it fuel. The US Treasury/IRS or state revenue types (usually a division of > the stte police) would pull over big rigs, check their fuel, and if they had > any evidence of red dyed fuel, they were in big trouble. If a state is > missing out on some fuel tax dollars, they can only go after the biggest > offenders, usually after someone tips them off. The fed's, on the other > hand, have what seem like unmeasurable resources to go after these > "tax-dodgers", including setting up roadside check points, and taking a > sample of your fuel for analysis. > > While this may not ever happen to someone driving an MBZ diesel, or any > smaller than commercial vehicle with a diesel engine, if someone tipped of > the right people about your use of Off Highway Use Only diesel in your car, > and made it sound like a big deal, you might find yourself talking to the > Nice Man or Woman with a Gun. You then may end up paying estimated back > taxes, penalties, and interest. To your state(or wahatever state you bought > the fuel in), and the fed's. And, the best part, you might be guilty > without a good chance to prove your innocence. Remebember, we're dealing > with tax codes here, not "normal" laws. > > You do want you want now. I just wanted everyone to know the risk. You > want to know how I know all this? I was a truck driver when they changed > over to low sulfur fuel. It is a strange feeling to get pulled over by an > IRS agent, and asked where I last bought fuel. > > > 2) Even if it were sold, the "gas" tax only applies to fuels sold for use > > in motor vehicles on state-owned roads. UMO and WVO are not defined as > > fuels, and so could be sold as food and water; IE, % tax only. > > Until enough was being used that the states and fed's realized how much > money the were missing out on. The tax isn't a "sin" tax, it's a "use" tax. > "You use roads with this stuff, and this tax helps pay for those roads. Pay > the man.". > > > SOOOOO........I'm looking forward to seeing how this works out. My > > Grandpa has a lot of UMO hanging around his garage......here comes Santa > > Clause... > > > > Jason > > > > BTW.....if my messages bug you, either don't read them or laugh your head > > off. Either way the problem will be solved. > > Sounds like a personal problem ;-) > > Diesel "red dyed fuel for the farm tractor, clear amber fuel for the car" > Dan ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 14:26:48 -0700 From: "Dan Jacobs" Subject: RE: [db] Buying First Diesel Tomorrow, What to Look For? - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Jacobs" To: "Vernon Tuck" Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2004 1:42 PM Subject: Re: [db] Buying First Diesel Tomorrow, What to Look For? > > Very good advice. However, likely beyond the abilities of your typical > > consumer. > > Well, kind of. I wish this kind of personal inspection was what the average > consumer did in all used vehicle buying situations, it might help keep some > of the rolling bombs and dangerous junkers off the road. > > > Therefore, if the potential buyer is also "a typical consumer" I'd > recommend > > he plunk down $100 or whatever an inspection costs by a knowledgeable > > mechanic. > > For example, here in the Portland, OR, area, there is a shop called MBI. It > is a MBZ only independent shop, and all of the tech's there know these cars > inside and out. You make an appointment, and bring the car in. They do > compression checks, look everything over, and even run water down the > windows to see if they leak, especially the rear window. I think it cost me > one hour of labor, it may be a different charge for different vehicles, > newer models than my '79 300D may cost a little more, but I feel it is money > well spent for a car you are planning to have for a while. The results > could aslo be kept by the shop to help them in the future in case any > reapirs are needed. > > > If he's buying from a reputable dealer I should think that he could even > pay > > THEM to do the inspection notwithstanding that they're selling the car. > > Ruputable to who? I would not trust ourlocal Portland area dealer for this, > only because they are usually too busy to clear out an hour for a tech that > will make them more money by replacing expensinve parts on cars that need to > be fixed. they might tell the tech to just look it over andmake assumptions > based on a quick peek at things. This is not based on my experience with > them, I am just cynical. Your experience may vary. The indie shop I go to > is very good at pointing out alternatives to expensive parts or extensive > labor charges if possible. They have also said good things about the local > dealer, they just can't believe how long people will wait for their car > back. > > > Even if the car has problems it may still be a heck of a deal. But a > viable > > deal for a hard core do-it-yourselfer, such as myself, may be a disaster > for > > a person who's unable or unwilling to do the work himself. > > My exact pitfall. That is why I refuse to own any vehicle worht more than > about $5000. If I try to fix it, and I really screw up, it may not be that > big of a deal if I end up selling it to be rid of a problem I created or > cannot fix. > > > By paying the dealership to inspect these points they cannot risk cheating > > him. > > This is common sense, but if he gets the big-time inspection from the > dealer, and there is a problem they didn't find that will cost him thousands > to repair, how will the dealer handle that situation? Talk this over with > them before you plunk _any_ money down, even for a keychain. Get any > agreements made about this kind of thing > _in_writing_on_their_letterhead_with_a_ managers_signature_. > > > On the other hand, if your instinct tells you "Wow! This car and I were > > meant for each other!... and you can easily afford the price... then go > for > > it. > > By all means. > > > But if the purchase alone is straining your resources I recommend opting > to > > pay for a professional point-by-point inspection. > > This kind of situation is never a good one to be in when buying a MBZ, or > anyhthing else that is "quirky". Have a second vehicle available to use, or > buy a bicycle. They rarely break down ;-) > > Diesel "Nevere buy an MBZ diesel out of desperation" Dan > > > > > Look for: > > > > Worn steering components, including rubber bushings. > > Motor mounts, are they squashed or do they look OK on both sides. > > Leaks from head, tend to be front right and rear of head > > Leaks from valve cover gasket > > Transmission shifting should be normal, no slipping or delays. Check ATF > > smells clean an not burned. > > Check Powe Steering reservoir, is it full and is it clean fluid. > > Climate controls that act funny or do not work - indicative of vacuum > > leaks in the system > > Check A/C, they are notorious for having the condenser leak, also make > > sure it has R-134 in it > > Check condition of brake rotors and pads, if they are worn, ask dealer > > if he will fix those as part of the package > > Check condition of fuel return lines between injectors, if they are > > supple and flexible you are OK, if they are hard as rock ask dealer to > > replace them with new lines. > > Check that the fuel filters (there are 2 of them) are new or recent. > > Check that all cylinders are firing, if it has a lot of hestitation on > > startup you could have a bad injector or two. > > Overall condition, rust, service records etc. ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1532 **********************************