From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Mon Nov 29 09:52:38 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Monday, November 29 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1632 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] 190D 3rd Brake light wiring. Re: [db] 190D boot leak Re: [db] K&N filter Re: [db] RE: diesel-benz-digest V1 #1630 Re: [db] 190D boot leak Re: [db] 190D boot leak [db] Re: [WJ-Grand] Faulty brakes [none] [db] 1981 300d for sale Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:29:37 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] 190D 3rd Brake light wiring. I'd use a relay. Not because of the load, but because of the way Mercedes monitors the bulbs... changing the bulb types can cause the cruise control to not work. A relay should eliminate most of that problem... although thinking about it, the resistance of the coil on the relay isn't much less than the bulb itself... I guess you could try it first without... john On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: >-->So, I've bought and semi installed a 3rd brake light in the rear >-->window of our 190D, this is due to the missus being hit for the 2nd >-->time in just a couple of months from behind! First time was a Toyota >-->Corolla which folded nicely round the towbar ;-) 2nd was a Suzuki Jeep >-->which did something similar , the only damage on the MB was the >-->trailer wiring coupling on the towbar ;-) >-->So, I have the brake light in the centre of the bottom of the rear >-->window with the wires running thru the first aid kit box on the rear >-->shelf. So, it says to snaplock the wiring to the existing wires in the >-->light cluster... d'ya think this is ok? Will the existing wires/fuse >-->take the load or should I upgrade? I know the light will be on >-->intermittantly but would prefer not to introduce anything that may >-->cause melted wires ;-) >-->Cheers >-->Steve >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:31:14 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] 190D boot leak On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: >-->hmmm.. this sounds about right! I went out to have a look on Sat, but >-->there is noway that water can get inside the double skin! It must be >-->condensation... also noticed a good bit of rust on the inside of the >-->lid... arrghh! >-->BTW, the plastic liners are attached to the carpet bit and the drains >-->are directly under these? I'll be working in the dark tonight (it's >-->getting dark by 4pm here now) so t'would be a good idea to know the >-->general direction to take when looking for the drains ;-) look from underneath... you need a "torch"... no, no, not an oxy-acetelyne torch, one run by batteries, we call them "flashlights" here... ;) look for the rubber dimple hanging down, you can attempt to clean from below. :) john >--> >-->Cheers >-->Steve >--> >--> >-->On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 19:12:13 -0800 (PST), john wrote: >-->> >-->> two possibilities... >-->> one the trunk seal itself, see if it's folded over... >-->> two, the drain plugs under the plastic liners in the fenders, >-->> you could have water there... >-->> >-->> you're getting condensation on the inside of the trunk lid... check >-->> those side wells for collected water... clean out the rubber grommet/drain >-->> and it'll probably be ok. >-->> >-->> john >-->> >-->> On Mon, 22 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: >-->> >-->> >-->So, it's winter here... and has been raining a good bit... so now, >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->everytime we open the boot (trunk) we get alot of water pouring down >-->> >-->from inside the boot LID! Can't see anything obvious... anyone >-->> >-->experienced this or know where to start looking (am gonna check the >-->> >-->seals this evening). >-->> >-->Thanks >-->> >-->Steve >-->> >--> >-->> >-->> ---- >-->> >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** >-->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-->> >-->> >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:35:41 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] K&N filter On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, corey church wrote: >-->I'm considering a K&N filter for my new 300sd. I plan to put a number >-->of miles on the car and the K&N is less than 2 paper element filters. I >-->already have K&N's in my 7.3l ford and my commuter car with no problems, >-->but does anyone have any info why they shouldn't be used? >-->Thanks >-->Corey >--> corey church >--> coreychurch-at-fastmail.fm they don't filter dust out very well, and are a pain to clean. If you can get some foam like the amsoil filters and wrap the outside of the k&N, oil soak the foam... it'll be ok, then keep the foam clean. if you're not in a very dusty environment you'll be ok... john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:38:22 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] RE: diesel-benz-digest V1 #1630 rusty, randy, george, performance products... and just about any Injector shop around should be able to find those injectors as remans... my Mercedes dealer here in Seattle has those injectors, list price around $80 or so... john On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, wrote: >--> Im the guy looking at the 82 300SD with the knocking problem. Im hoping the problem is an injector knock and not internal dammage. Here is some advice I got from a friend as to how to diagnosis this problem. I thought I would run this by the list for comments. First, offer to change the oil. Check the oil for a metal sheen and metal particles in the oil filter. If there is serious internal dammage this would show up here. Assuming no metal in the oil, with the engine warmerd up and running, loosen the cap nut on the oil line of each injector one at a time. This will drop the pressure in that injector so it will not operate. If the knocking stops, that MAY well indicate a faulty injector. It may also quiet a rod noise because of the decreased stress on the rod. If switching injectors quiets the knock that should be the problem. Comments? >--> >--> Assuming there is in fact an injector knock, Im not out of the woods yet. I am so far looking at the internet unable to find rebuilt injectors for this engine (617.951) Even the local Mercedes dealer doesnt deal with rebuilt ones anymore. He wants $291 for new ones EACH. Can anyone put me onto a source for these injectors? >--> >--> Thanks in advance for any help! >--> >--> >--> >-->Psul Kneisl >-->The most personalized portal on the Web! >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 16:09:01 +0000 From: Stephen Rigley Subject: Re: [db] 190D boot leak heheh why do I get the feeling you're setting me up for something? ;-) Better dig out my safety glasses + wet suit ;) On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:31:14 -0800 (PST), john wrote: > On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: > > >-->hmmm.. this sounds about right! I went out to have a look on Sat, but > >-->there is noway that water can get inside the double skin! It must be > >-->condensation... also noticed a good bit of rust on the inside of the > >-->lid... arrghh! > >-->BTW, the plastic liners are attached to the carpet bit and the drains > >-->are directly under these? I'll be working in the dark tonight (it's > >-->getting dark by 4pm here now) so t'would be a good idea to know the > >-->general direction to take when looking for the drains ;-) > > look from underneath... you need a "torch"... no, no, not an > oxy-acetelyne torch, one run by batteries, we call them "flashlights" > here... ;) look for the rubber dimple hanging down, you can > attempt to clean from below. :) > > john > > >--> > >-->Cheers > > > >-->Steve > >--> > >--> > >-->On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 19:12:13 -0800 (PST), john wrote: > >-->> > >-->> two possibilities... > >-->> one the trunk seal itself, see if it's folded over... > >-->> two, the drain plugs under the plastic liners in the fenders, > >-->> you could have water there... > >-->> > >-->> you're getting condensation on the inside of the trunk lid... check > >-->> those side wells for collected water... clean out the rubber grommet/drain > >-->> and it'll probably be ok. > >-->> > >-->> john > >-->> > >-->> On Mon, 22 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: > >-->> > >-->> >-->So, it's winter here... and has been raining a good bit... so now, > >-->> > >-->> > >-->> >-->everytime we open the boot (trunk) we get alot of water pouring down > >-->> >-->from inside the boot LID! Can't see anything obvious... anyone > >-->> >-->experienced this or know where to start looking (am gonna check the > >-->> >-->seals this evening). > >-->> >-->Thanks > >-->> >-->Steve > >-->> >--> > >-->> > >-->> ---- > >-->> > >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >-->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** > >-->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. > >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >-->> > >-->> > >--> > > ---- > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** > Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:24:41 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] 190D boot leak On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: >-->heheh why do I get the feeling you're setting me up for something? ;-) >-->Better dig out my safety glasses + wet suit ;) :) make sure a photographer is standing by... :) fwiw, on the coupe I had to pull out the plastic liner to find the drain... used a stick to probe around, once I found the hole and stuck it with the stick it drained nicely... dirt and stuff gets in there and it starts holding water... didn't have to worry about the passenger side... it had a dent and rust through that keeps the water from collecting. :) john >--> >--> >-->On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:31:14 -0800 (PST), john wrote: >-->> On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: >-->> >-->> >-->hmmm.. this sounds about right! I went out to have a look on Sat, but >-->> >-->there is noway that water can get inside the double skin! It must be >-->> >-->condensation... also noticed a good bit of rust on the inside of the >-->> >-->lid... arrghh! >-->> >-->BTW, the plastic liners are attached to the carpet bit and the drains >-->> >-->are directly under these? I'll be working in the dark tonight (it's >-->> >-->getting dark by 4pm here now) so t'would be a good idea to know the >-->> >-->general direction to take when looking for the drains ;-) >-->> >-->> look from underneath... you need a "torch"... no, no, not an >-->> oxy-acetelyne torch, one run by batteries, we call them "flashlights" >-->> here... ;) look for the rubber dimple hanging down, you can >-->> attempt to clean from below. :) >-->> >-->> john >-->> >-->> >--> >-->> >-->Cheers >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->Steve >-->> >--> >-->> >--> >-->> >-->On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 19:12:13 -0800 (PST), john wrote: >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> two possibilities... >-->> >-->> one the trunk seal itself, see if it's folded over... >-->> >-->> two, the drain plugs under the plastic liners in the fenders, >-->> >-->> you could have water there... >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> you're getting condensation on the inside of the trunk lid... check >-->> >-->> those side wells for collected water... clean out the rubber grommet/drain >-->> >-->> and it'll probably be ok. >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> john >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> On Mon, 22 Nov 2004, Stephen Rigley wrote: >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->So, it's winter here... and has been raining a good bit... so now, >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->everytime we open the boot (trunk) we get alot of water pouring down >-->> >-->> >-->from inside the boot LID! Can't see anything obvious... anyone >-->> >-->> >-->experienced this or know where to start looking (am gonna check the >-->> >-->> >-->seals this evening). >-->> >-->> >-->Thanks >-->> >-->> >-->Steve >-->> >-->> >--> >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> ---- >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-->> >-->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** >-->> >-->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. >-->> >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> >-->> >--> >-->> >-->> ---- >-->> >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-->> >-->> >-->> ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** >-->> Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. >-->> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-->> >-->> >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 09:32:00 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] Re: [WJ-Grand] Faulty brakes Simon, I posted a link to a possible class action suit a few weeks ago... I don't maintain an archive of the WJ list on my server, can't remember if I also posted that to the diesel-benz or xj list as the rotor issue comes up there from time to time... As far as the solution I've found for this problem, power slotted cadium plated rotors from Performance Products. About the same cost as the factory units but the ones I installed when over 35,000 miles without trouble. I put the cross drilled slotted rotors on my benz. My benz had warped rotors as well. It seems that since the world's do-gooders have eliminated asbestos from brake linings we've had lots of issues with brake rotors. The problem is the heat buildup. Not sure why asbestos was better for brakes, perhaps it didn't build up heat in the pads, don't know... all I know is that since it's been replaced with other materials these brake rotor problems have been a serious problem. the power slotted discs help dissipate the heat and also help braking. I'll be replacing my stock rotors on my '99 WJ with these rotors probably around spring time. Will also be replacing my neighbor's 2002 rotors, she just had her last set of "warranty" replacements installed. When you call a parts department at a dealership and you find they have lots of a particular part on the shelf, that's a very clear indication there is a problem. Found 5 ignition switches on the shelf... I think the dealership had about 55 of those rotors on hand... I guess some of these parts are used on more than one model, but still... with warehouses only a day or two away why have that many on hand??? aftermarket products in cases like this are often the best solution... later, john On Mon, 29 Nov 2004, Simon Worby wrote: >--> >-->Bought vehicle -at- 30,000 miles >--> >-->Date Miles Action >-->16.10.03 30,500 miles discs and callipers replaced >-->09.03.04 34,000 miles discs replaced again >-->13.09.04 37,000 miles discs skimmed on-vehicle >-->now 39,000 miles hubs, discs and callipers being replaced >--> >-->The work that is being done as I write is recommendation by Daimler-Chrysler UK in Milton Keynes, IN SPITE OF THE FACT that that hubs show no runout. Cost is ca. #2k (covered by warranty company). >--> >-->Essentially, the brakes have gone wrong at least every 2,000 miles. Sometimes I've just lived with it for a little longer as I'm a busy person. >--> >-->I don't personally think that replacing the hubs will help -- I can't see how it can. >--> >-->I just think the Mopar discs aren't up to the job. But of course, they will only replace with Mopar parts. >--> >-->What do others think? Have quality non-Mopar parts cured this for others? >--> >-->Thanks, >--> >-->Simon >--> >--> >-->------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> >-->Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about buying >-->or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 3600 Tours, Research, >-->Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used >-->http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA/YiGOAA/Aav0lB/TM >-->--------------------------------------------------------------------~-> >--> >--> >-->Yahoo! Groups Links >--> >--><*> To visit your group on the web, go to: >--> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WJ-Grand/ >--> >--><*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >--> WJ-Grand-unsubscribe-at-yahoogroups.com >--> >--><*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: >--> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ >--> >--> >--> >--> >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 18:00:10 +0000 From: einvolk-at-comcast.net Subject: [none] test ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 18:03:11 +0000 From: einvolk-at-comcast.net Subject: [db] 1981 300d for sale I am going to place my 1981 300D up for sale. 240K, new exhaust, new axle shafts, climate control works, converted to R 174 or what ever it is..... Has some rust problems but nothing major.. passes PA inspection... Car is located in Philly suburbs. 215-353-3430 Leo ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1632 **********************************