From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sat Dec 4 14:19:25 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Saturday, December 4 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1642 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Re: [db] Mity Vac Vacuum Hose Tester Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D [db] Re: Diesel MJ update (fwd) [db] [Fwd: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants] RE: [db] [Fwd: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants] Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 03 Dec 2004 22:37:51 -0500 From: Marc Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Hello Peter, On your pedal piece, you may want to look at the linkage in the engine compartment. Move the one closest to the firewall and watch the rest of the linkage. You may be able to see where the slack is. I'd be very careful what you adjust, though. On the tank, it's easy once it's empty. Remove the partition in your trunk and you'll see it. As I remember, all bolts are in the trunk. Once you disconnect the hoses (filler and fuel lines to front (to and from engine), and disconnect the fuel sensor wire, it should come right out. I had mine steam cleaned at a radiator shop back in 1991 when I had an algae problem. I've been using BioBor ever since once in a while. Marc Z in NC Peter wrote: > > >Well where shall I begin? While road testing the MB I noted it required pressing the gas pedal almost close to middle range before the engine started revving or responding. I am aware that these turbo diesels "lag" but didn't realize it was to this extent. Although once it revs it takes off OK. Since I don't know if this is normal or something I should be looking into I welcome your opinion. As a matter of fact all is welcomed to chime in. The more opinions the merrier :-) > > > >Also I am thinking of starting out by removing the fuel tank for a cleanup. How big of a job is this? Is there a risk of running into nasty rusted bolts? Well that's it for now I'll save the rest for another day :) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2004 22:54:00 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Didn't you already ask about the cruise control not holding high speeds on this car? It definitely sounds like you have some serious slack in your accelerator linkage. You should be able to adjust this all out to improve both your cruise control and your pedal response. Turbo lag shouldn't be too bad on this. My 85 had a different torque converter stall speed and a slightly different rear axle ratio, so it was darned near peppy, but yours should at least be reasonably responsive. Alec > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Marc > Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 9:38 PM > To: plandy-at-myway.com > Cc: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D > > > Hello Peter, > > On your pedal piece, you may want to look at the linkage in the engine > compartment. Move the one closest to the firewall and watch the rest > of the linkage. You may be able to see where the slack is. I'd be very > careful what you adjust, though. > > On the tank, it's easy once it's empty. Remove the partition in your > trunk > and you'll see it. As I remember, all bolts are in the trunk. Once you > disconnect the hoses (filler and fuel lines to front (to and from engine), > and disconnect the fuel sensor wire, it should come right out. I had > mine steam cleaned at a radiator shop back in 1991 when I had an > algae problem. I've been using BioBor ever since once in a while. > > Marc Z in NC > > Peter wrote: > > > > > > >Well where shall I begin? While road testing the MB I noted it > required pressing the gas pedal almost close to middle range > before the engine started revving or responding. I am aware that > these turbo diesels "lag" but didn't realize it was to this > extent. Although once it revs it takes off OK. Since I don't > know if this is normal or something I should be looking into I > welcome your opinion. As a matter of fact all is welcomed to > chime in. The more opinions the merrier :-) > > > > > > > >Also I am thinking of starting out by removing the fuel tank for > a cleanup. How big of a job is this? Is there a risk of running > into nasty rusted bolts? Well that's it for now I'll save the > rest for another day :) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 10:39:38 -0500 From: Paul Brown Subject: Re: [db] Mity Vac Vacuum Hose Tester They all work on the same principle; I got mine on ebay. If you get the one with the hoses and brake fluid reservoir, you can also use it to bleed your brakes. Marc wrote: > I need to purchase a Mity Vac (vacuum tester) and I'm > wondering which model I should buy? > My ventilation system on my '83 300TD is in bad > need of fixing. With the EC button in, no air flows > out of the upper dash vents nor the lower vents. > > I think Sears sells the Mity Vac, don't they? > > TIA, Marc Z in NC ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 10:42:05 -0500 From: Paul Brown Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D My secondary filter was plugged with some black gunk, and I pulled the fuel gauge sender to find it junked up, too. What is Bio Bor and where do I get it? Any option, besides pulling the tank and steam cleaning? Marc wrote: > Hello Peter, > > > On the tank, it's easy once it's empty. Remove the partition in your > trunk > and you'll see it. As I remember, all bolts are in the trunk. Once you > disconnect the hoses (filler and fuel lines to front (to and from > engine), > and disconnect the fuel sensor wire, it should come right out. I had > mine steam cleaned at a radiator shop back in 1991 when I had an > algae problem. I've been using BioBor ever since once in a while. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 10:49:19 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D there are cleaners for the fuel that will take care of the black stuff... problem is that you'll clog up a few filters along the way... steaming the tank isn't necessary... you might consider getting an aftermarket filter and putting it before the factory primary filter... then run the biocide or whatever that stuff is and watch the primary filter... when it starts getting discolored or the new primary filter is clogged change filters and contine the treatment. be sure to keep your filters clean... if you have an older (pre '87) Diesel than you can use that Diesel purge stuff, wouldn't recommend it on on the newer higher pressure systems. I used some fuel treatment on mine, as I have on all my other Diesels for the last 20+ years, and it started some seals to leak... right on the filler door it says no additives. I believe them now. ;) On the auxillary filter, get one with the water separator bowl so you can see what's coming through... john On Sat, 4 Dec 2004, Paul Brown wrote: >-->My secondary filter was plugged with some black gunk, and I pulled the >-->fuel gauge sender to find it junked up, too. What is Bio Bor and where >-->do I get it? Any option, besides pulling the tank and steam cleaning? >--> >-->Marc wrote: >--> >-->> Hello Peter, >-->> >-->> >-->> On the tank, it's easy once it's empty. Remove the partition in your >-->> trunk >-->> and you'll see it. As I remember, all bolts are in the trunk. Once you >-->> disconnect the hoses (filler and fuel lines to front (to and from >-->> engine), >-->> and disconnect the fuel sensor wire, it should come right out. I had >-->> mine steam cleaned at a radiator shop back in 1991 when I had an >-->> algae problem. I've been using BioBor ever since once in a while. >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 15:10:36 -0500 From: Marc Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Bio Bor is a biocide that kills the algae in the fuel tank and lines, if any. One bottle lasts a long time, at least it does for me. You can see it here: http://www.greatoutdoors.com/go/product/bioborjf16ozgrowthcontrol/boatersworld.com/ A local marina may stock it if they have boats with diesels. You can try Bio Bor without removing the tank but you may need several sets of filters until the "schtuff" clears out. It depends on how much algae is there. I had the situation where when the tank dropped below 1/4, the engine would quit from the high concentration of algae. Marc Z in NC Paul Brown wrote: > My secondary filter was plugged with some black gunk, and I pulled the > fuel gauge sender to find it junked up, too. What is Bio Bor and > where do I get it? Any option, besides pulling the tank and steam > cleaning? > > Marc wrote: ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 13:07:48 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] Re: Diesel MJ update (fwd) From: "Vee Dubb" Subject: Diesel MJ update I figured I'd give an update for those interested. For those who don't yet know what I'm doing, here's a quick catch-up: 1988 MJ pioneer 4x2 shortbox, was 4cyl-5sp. 1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD (om617 3.0l 5cyl TD) and auto tranny. I have gutted the engine bay, all except the original wiring harness. I still need to separate the lighting wires from the now un- necessary engine harness. I'm sure it will be easier than I think, I just haven't started on it. Original steering has been deleted, less the column, shaft, and spindles. In it's place is an 80's ford mustang rack and pinion. Not only is it the right size, the ends fit the spindles and has enough travel to turn lock-to-lock. It is fitted to a custom cross- member. All belt-driven mb accessories are being retained (alt, a/c comp, ps). Still having problems with the stabilizer bar. Stupid ball joint on one end. Thinking of replacing with the stabilizer from the rear of a 80's camaro. Both ends with rubber grommets/steel insert. With the custom mount brackets, and factory mb rubber mounts, the engine has 1" clearance from hood to timing chain hump in valve cover, and about about four inches from pan to front axle. I want about two inches lift in the front, for several reasons. I need to do it as cheaply as possible. I'm thinking either a spacer or new springs. Maybe the 4.0l cherokee springs will stand taller. I only need another inch, but would prefer two. I have the engine and tranny out right now (finishing up some welding in engine bay, replacing seals on engine while it's out) and will try to take some pics. Still need to fab a driveshaft so I can test drive the jeep. Once I know that everything is working to my satisfaction, I will have a shaft made and balanced. Need to locate a jeep auto-trans shifter setup. Oh, anyone know off hand if the pedal cluster can be swapped between the auto and standard tranny trucks? Haven't looked myself yet. - -Steven - -------------------------------------- fwiw, pedal cluster swap shouldn't be a problem... john ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 14:14:38 -0800 From: john meister Subject: [db] [Fwd: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants] I'm not sure but this sounded a bit like a scam to me... we'll see, I sent this quote but it doesn't make sense to spend this much to use amsoil... the citibank visa or telegraph transfer sounds fishy to me... How does one receive payment from international buyers without getting ripped off? One of the guys on a Jeep list working at an international importer got an order like this from either singapore or malaysia for a bunch of winches and got stiffed because it was a stolen credit card. john - -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 14:04:59 -0800 From: john meister Reply-To: john-at-wagoneers.com To: someone at singnet.com.sg> Greetings, I looked at both ground and air shipping. While I love Amsoil lubricants and think they're the best. I personally do not believe that this is a good value for you. Even if I sold this at cost, shipped as cheaply as possible and didn't charge for my time to get this to you, it's still going to cost you well over $300. IF SHIPPED GROUND: group 8 for parcel post (limit 66 lbs!) 70 lb rate to zone 8 SURFACE - $106.10 Total if shipped surface: $375.39 ==================================== IF SHIPPED AIR: Airmail Parcel Post: $282.25 http://pe.usps.gov/text/pub51/51tblc.html#_Toc498745158 total airmail: $551.54 ==================================== If you were to compare 25,000 miles of use with Amsoil, versus $20 oil changes at 3,000 miles, you'd have roughly 8 regular changes for a total of $160. Even using a local synthetic (can you get Mobil1 there?) you'd spend 5x$5 or $25 per change x8 or $200. Either way you'll save over twice that amount over buying AMSOIL. I don't have a lot of free time so $45 isn't an incentive for me at all. I recommend that you just buy whatever you can there, just change it more often. :) There is also the other issue of how we will make payment. I am acutely aware of credit card fraud from some of your countrymen. I will not accept payment by any means that are not 100% secure and without risk. I'm not sure what those means are at this point, and have little time to check into it further. So if you decide to do this, which I don't recommend, I would want full payment for this upfront in a secured form. Once payment is received I'll have the product and shipped out to you within 7 business days. It will take me at least 3 business days from the time the funds clear to have the product shipped here, then I'll have to repack and reship as there is a weight limit into Singapare. (I may have underestimated the shipping costs because I will have to break this shipment up into smaller units to meet the limit... ) Over the years I've looked into shipping internationally... it's never, ever worked out. Ever. Shipping costs have always prevented it from working out. As I suspect it will this time. sincerely, john someone in singapore wrote: > I wonder if you could supply the following Amsoil products and quantity to Singapore. > > i) 20 (twenty) bottles x 1 quart of Amsoil SAE 5W-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil > ii) 4 (four) bottles x 1 quart of Amsoil Series 2000 (SAE 0W-30) Fully Synthetic Engine Oil > iii) 6 (six) bottles x 1 quart of Amsoil Series 2000 (SAE 75W-90) Synthetic Gear Lube > > Please quote total price payable (inclusive of freight charges by air) and > estimated time of delivery. I could pay by either Citibank Visa or > Telegraphic Transfer. > someone in singapore DETAILS: - ------------- Qty. Product Price ea. Total 1 ASL-01 - SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (12) quart bottles $70.20 $70.20 4 ASL-QT - SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (1) quart bottle $5.85 $46.80 8 TSO-QT - SERIES 2000 - SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (1) quart bottle $8.50 $34.00 6 TGR-QT - Series 2000 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - (1) quart bottle $9.20 $55.20 shipping to Washington $18.09 Weight: 67 lbs. (use 70lbs for estimate - USPS) $224.29 to my door... Handling, repacking, fuel costs and time to reship: $45.00 Subtotal BEFORE Singapore shipping: $269.29 =================================================== group 8 for parcel post (limit 66 lbs!) 70 lb rate to zone 8 SURFACE - $106.10 IF SHIPPED GROUND: Total if shipped surface: $375.39 ==================================== IF SHIPPED AIR: Airmail Parcel Post: $282.25 http://pe.usps.gov/text/pub51/51tblc.html#_Toc498745158 total airmail: $551.54 ============================== ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 16:21:27 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: [db] [Fwd: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants] Oh yeah. Sounds like scam city to me. I just wonder why they'd be trying something like this for just a few hundred dollars worth of goods. > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of john meister > Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 4:15 PM > To: undisclosed-recipients: > Subject: [db] [Fwd: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants] > > > I'm not sure but this sounded a bit like a scam to me... we'll see, I > sent this > quote but it doesn't make sense to spend this much to use amsoil... > the citibank visa > or telegraph transfer sounds fishy to me... > > How does one receive payment from international > buyers without getting ripped off? > > One of the guys on a Jeep list working at an international importer got > an order like > this from either singapore or malaysia for a bunch of winches and got > stiffed because it > was a stolen credit card. > > john > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants > Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 14:04:59 -0800 > From: john meister > Reply-To: john-at-wagoneers.com > To: someone at singnet.com.sg> > > > > > > Greetings, > > I looked at both ground and air shipping. While I love Amsoil > lubricants and think they're the best. I personally do not believe > that this is a good value for you. Even if I sold this at cost, > shipped as cheaply as possible and didn't charge for my time to > get this to you, it's still going to cost you well over $300. > > > > IF SHIPPED GROUND: > group 8 for parcel post (limit 66 lbs!) > 70 lb rate to zone 8 SURFACE - $106.10 > Total if shipped surface: $375.39 > ==================================== > > IF SHIPPED AIR: > Airmail Parcel Post: $282.25 > http://pe.usps.gov/text/pub51/51tblc.html#_Toc498745158 > total airmail: $551.54 > ==================================== > > If you were to compare 25,000 miles of use with Amsoil, > versus $20 oil changes at 3,000 miles, you'd have roughly > 8 regular changes for a total of $160. Even using a local > synthetic (can you get Mobil1 there?) you'd spend 5x$5 or > $25 per change x8 or $200. Either way you'll save over > twice that amount over buying AMSOIL. > > I don't have a lot of free time so $45 isn't an incentive for > me at all. I recommend that you just buy whatever you can > there, just change it more often. :) > > There is also the other issue of how we will make payment. I > am acutely aware of credit card fraud from some of your countrymen. > > I will not accept payment by any means that are not 100% secure > and without risk. I'm not sure what those means are at this > point, and have little time to check into it further. > > So if you decide to do this, which I don't recommend, I would > want full payment for this upfront in a secured form. Once > payment is received I'll have the product and shipped out to > you within 7 business days. It will take me at least 3 business > days from the time the funds clear to have the product shipped > here, then I'll have to repack and reship as there is a weight > limit into Singapare. (I may have underestimated the shipping > costs because I will have to break this shipment up into smaller > units to meet the limit... ) > > Over the years I've looked into shipping internationally... it's > never, ever worked out. Ever. Shipping costs have always prevented > it from working out. As I suspect it will this time. > > sincerely, > john > > > > someone in singapore wrote: > > I wonder if you could supply the following Amsoil products and > quantity to Singapore. > > > > i) 20 (twenty) bottles x 1 quart of Amsoil SAE 5W-30 Fully > Synthetic Engine Oil > > ii) 4 (four) bottles x 1 quart of Amsoil Series 2000 (SAE > 0W-30) Fully Synthetic Engine Oil > > iii) 6 (six) bottles x 1 quart of Amsoil Series 2000 (SAE > 75W-90) Synthetic Gear Lube > > > > Please quote total price payable (inclusive of freight charges > by air) and > > estimated time of delivery. I could pay by either Citibank Visa or > > Telegraphic Transfer. > > someone in singapore > > > DETAILS: > ------------- > Qty. Product Price ea. Total > > > 1 ASL-01 - SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (12) quart bottles > $70.20 $70.20 > > > 4 ASL-QT - SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (1) quart bottle > $5.85 $46.80 > > > 8 TSO-QT - SERIES 2000 - SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (1) > quart bottle > $8.50 $34.00 > > > 6 TGR-QT - Series 2000 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - (1) > quart bottle > $9.20 $55.20 > > shipping to Washington $18.09 > Weight: 67 lbs. (use 70lbs for estimate - USPS) > $224.29 to my door... > > Handling, repacking, fuel costs and time to reship: $45.00 > > Subtotal BEFORE Singapore shipping: $269.29 > > =================================================== > > group 8 for parcel post (limit 66 lbs!) > 70 lb rate to zone 8 SURFACE - $106.10 > > IF SHIPPED GROUND: > Total if shipped surface: $375.39 > ==================================== > > IF SHIPPED AIR: > Airmail Parcel Post: $282.25 > http://pe.usps.gov/text/pub51/51tblc.html#_Toc498745158 > > total airmail: $551.54 > > ============================== ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1642 **********************************