From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sat Dec 4 16:24:32 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Sunday, December 5 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1643 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: RE: [db] [Fwd: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants] FW: RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Re: FW: RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Re: [db] Introduction from Schenectady, NY - Newbie - Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D FW: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 14:19:18 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: RE: [db] [Fwd: Re: Rush me Amsoil Lubricants] On Sat, 4 Dec 2004, Alec Cordova wrote: >-->Oh yeah. Sounds like scam city to me. I just wonder why they'd be trying >-->something like this for just a few hundred dollars worth of goods. well, that's the thing... he claims to have bought this before. He didn't come across like some of the scammers I have encountered either... Regardless, it's a lot of hassle for dealers to do this, we have to pay shipping from the warehouse, then reship it... takes a lot of time for little money... I think I make about sixty cents a quart of oil. It's fine if you make a run to the warehouse once a month and stock up and folks drop by your shop to pick it up, or better if folks order on line or via the toll free number (new features in the last few years that works GREAT!) I know of very few folks that are making a living from this, This isn't a get rick quick scheme, no deception, no t-shirts, no dreams, just good stuff sold by gear head types. :) I've been a dealer since '83 and never made that much... but then again, I've never really worked at it and really don't care. :) I sell it because I use it and it's good stuff, not because of the "profit". ;) Anyway... he may be serious, and he may be wealthy... I've had students from Singapore that were. But if he was in that situation you could almost fly to the states, buy the stuff here, pack it in your luggage and take it home. (assuming they'd let you travel with motor oil... hard to say...) I looked into supplying a guy in the phillipines with the product, but again shipping costs... and the fact that I'm not authorized to sell outside of the US & Canada, all work against this thing happening. I have run into a few folks that have friends that will reship it. That makes it easier on me, but still the costs of shipping prevented it from working out... I guess it's just time for me to say no to these kinds of requests. :) john >-->> >-->> DETAILS: >-->> ------------- >-->> Qty. Product Price ea. Total >-->> >-->> >-->> 1 ASL-01 - SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (12) quart bottles >-->> $70.20 $70.20 >-->> >-->> >-->> 4 ASL-QT - SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (1) quart bottle >-->> $5.85 $46.80 >-->> >-->> >-->> 8 TSO-QT - SERIES 2000 - SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - (1) >-->> quart bottle >-->> $8.50 $34.00 >-->> >-->> >-->> 6 TGR-QT - Series 2000 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - (1) >-->> quart bottle >-->> $9.20 $55.20 >-->> >-->> shipping to Washington $18.09 >-->> Weight: 67 lbs. (use 70lbs for estimate - USPS) >-->> $224.29 to my door... >-->> >-->> Handling, repacking, fuel costs and time to reship: $45.00 >-->> >-->> Subtotal BEFORE Singapore shipping: $269.29 >-->> >-->> =================================================== >-->> >-->> group 8 for parcel post (limit 66 lbs!) >-->> 70 lb rate to zone 8 SURFACE - $106.10 >-->> >-->> IF SHIPPED GROUND: >-->> Total if shipped surface: $375.39 >-->> ==================================== >-->> >-->> IF SHIPPED AIR: >-->> Airmail Parcel Post: $282.25 >-->> http://pe.usps.gov/text/pub51/51tblc.html#_Toc498745158 >-->> >-->> total airmail: $551.54 >-->> >-->> ============================== >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:23:03 -0500 (EST) From: "Peter" Subject: FW: RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D _______________________________________________ No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com Received: from [209.23.8.28] by mprdmailfe4.nwk.myway.com via HTTP; Sat, 04 Dec 2004 19:20:57 EST X-AntiAbuse: This header was added to track abuse, please include it with any abuse report X-AntiAbuse: ID = dac173e44b3a7517116ad41e14084f21 Reply-to: plandy-at-myway.com From: "Peter" MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: plandy-at-myway.com X-Mailer: PHP Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6"; Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To: acordova-at-texas.net Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:20:57 -0500 Subject: RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D - --MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for the good advice Alec. Indeed I shall replace all fuses on the car. After some 21years on the road it is about time. With Regards,Peter1984 300D 126k.mi --- On Fri 12/03, Alec Cordova < acordova-at-texas.net > wrote:From: Alec Cordova [mailto: acordova-at-texas.net]Since the fuses themselves are so cheap, replacing them all, and cleaningall the contacts while you're in there (with anything like emery cloth orboards, very fine sandpaper, some good electrical contact cleaner, etc.),can often resolve mysterious symptoms and save hours of otherwisefrustrating troubleshooting. If you have any trouble locating new fuses,don't forget to check out parts shops that have stuff for old VW Beetles.They used the same format of fuses. _______________________________________________ No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com - --MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Thanks for the good advice Alec. Indeed I shall replace all fuses on the car. After some 21years on the road it is about time.

With Regards,
Peter
1984 300D 126k.mi

--- On Fri 12/03, Alec Cordova < acordova-at-texas.net > wrote:From: Alec Cordova [mailto: acordova-at-texas.net]
Since the fuses themselves are so cheap, replacing them all, and cleaning
all the contacts while you're in there (with anything like emery cloth or
boards, very fine sandpaper, some good electrical contact cleaner, etc.),
can often resolve mysterious symptoms and save hours of otherwise
frustrating troubleshooting. If you have any trouble locating new fuses,
don't forget to check out parts shops that have stuff for old VW Beetles.
They used the same format of fuses.



No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding.
Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com
- --MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 16:15:43 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: FW: RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D you wouldn't mind emailing in plain text would you? :) I thought the list server stripped anything but plain text... john On Sat, 4 Dec 2004, Peter wrote: >-->_______________________________________________ >-->No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. >-->Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com >-->Received: from [209.23.8.28] by mprdmailfe4.nwk.myway.com via HTTP; Sat, >--> 04 Dec 2004 19:20:57 EST >--> >-->X-AntiAbuse: This header was added to track abuse, please include it with any abuse report >--> >-->X-AntiAbuse: ID = dac173e44b3a7517116ad41e14084f21 >--> >-->Reply-to: plandy-at-myway.com >--> >-->From: "Peter" >--> >-->MIME-Version: 1.0 >--> >-->X-Sender: plandy-at-myway.com >--> >-->X-Mailer: PHP >--> >-->Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6"; >--> >-->Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >--> >-->To: acordova-at-texas.net >--> >-->Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:20:57 -0500 >--> >-->Subject: RE: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D >--> >--> >--> >--> >--> >--> >--> >--> >-->--MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6 >--> >-->Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >--> >-->Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >--> >--> >--> >--> >--> Thanks for the good advice Alec. Indeed I shall replace all fuses on the car. After some 21years on the road it is about time. With Regards,Peter1984 300D 126k.mi --- On Fri 12/03, Alec Cordova < acordova-at-texas.net > wrote:From: Alec Cordova [mailto: acordova-at-texas.net]Since the fuses themselves are so cheap, replacing them all, and cleaningall the contacts while you're in there (with anything like emery cloth orboards, very fine sandpaper, some good electrical contact cleaner, etc.),can often resolve mysterious symptoms and save hours of otherwisefrustrating troubleshooting. If you have any trouble locating new fuses,don't forget to check out parts shops that have stuff for old VW Beetles.They used the same format of fuses. >--> >--> >--> >-->_______________________________________________ >--> >-->No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. >--> >-->Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com >--> >--> >--> >-->--MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6 >--> >-->Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" >--> >-->Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >--> >--> >--> >--> >-->
Thanks for the good advice Alec. Indeed I shall replace all fuses on the car. After some 21years on the road it is about time.

With Regards,
Peter
1984 300D 126k.mi

--- On Fri 12/03, Alec Cordova < acordova-at-texas.net > wrote:From: Alec Cordova [mailto: acordova-at-texas.net]
Since the fuses themselves are so cheap, replacing them all, and cleaning
all the contacts while you're in there (with anything like emery cloth or
boards, very fine sandpaper, some good electrical contact cleaner, etc.),
can often resolve mysterious symptoms and save hours of otherwise
frustrating troubleshooting. If you have any trouble locating new fuses,
don't forget to check out parts shops that have stuff for old VW Beetles.
They used the same format of fuses.



No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding.
Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com
>--> >--> >--> >-->--MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__56d1bbc896e7a20c5c371f9140168cb6-- >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:28:07 -0500 (EST) From: "Peter" Subject: Re: [db] Introduction from Schenectady, NY - Newbie - Hi Marc, Wow you racked up quiet a bit of miles there! I'll keep Weldwood in mind should plan one fail. I read on on a forum people having this problem recommended 3M's Super Adhesive. I ordered a 5oz tube paste. We'll compare notes later! :)With Regards,PeterFrom: Marc [mailto: marcz-at-pobox.com]To: plandy-at-myway.comCc: diesel-benz-at-digest.netDate: Fri, 03 Dec 2004 21:57:56 -0500Subject: Re: [db] Introduction from Schenectady, NY - Newbie -Good job! My '83 is a 300D Turbo, sand beige. Bought it in 1990with 85,000 miles on it and it now has 323,000+ and going strong.They're easy to work on but are unusual. For wood trim I recentlytried Weldwood contact cement. It seems to be working fine butthe summer heat will be the real test. Marc Z in NC'83 300D Turbo'83 300TD'89 XJ LaredoPeter wrote:>Hello All,>>>>Thought I send a quick hello to the list. I just purchased a 1984 300D, 127kmi, beige, and this is my very first MB!! Been around cars most of my life but don't know much about the W123's. Going to bring it home next week once I get all the paper works/plates together. The car is typically solid with completely rebuilt engine and few months old "huge" battery. Wood trims are dangling..gotta fix that. Antena won't go up...Wheels are somewhat rough and rusty...Dirty inside and outside...Gottta replace all the fluids and filters. Hmm ...that radio could use replacing :-)>>>>With Regards,>>Peter Landy>>_______________________________________________>No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding.>Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com>>> > _______________________________________________ No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:34:59 -0500 (EST) From: "Peter" Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D Marc, thanks for your great tips. Will check linkage according to your instruction. But I suspect...fuel blockage from crud and algae...unfortunately. But all this remains to be confirmed once the car comes home next week end. OK then the spare tire comes out first and I should see the partition. From there the bolts and tubes, ect. I wouldn't be surprised to find the screen with 1inch layer of crud.....Will let you all know as soon as I get this task going. With Regards,Peter From: Marc [mailto: marcz-at-pobox.com]To: plandy-at-myway.comCc: diesel-benz-at-digest.netDate: Fri, 03 Dec 2004 22:37:51 -0500Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300DHello Peter,On your pedal piece, you may want to look at the linkage in the enginecompartment. Move the one closest to the firewall and watch the restof the linkage. You may be able to see where the slack is. I'd be verycareful what you adjust, though. On the tank, it's easy once it's empty. Remove the partition in your trunkand you'll see it. As I remember, all bolts are in the trunk. Once youdisconnect the hoses (filler and fuel lines to front (to and from engine),and disconnect the fuel sensor wire, it should come right out. I hadmine steam cleaned at a radiator shop back in 1991 when I had analgae problem. I've been using BioBor ever since once in a while.Marc Z in NCPeter wrote:>>>Well where shall I begin? While road testing the MB I noted it required pressing the gas pedal almost close to middle range before the engine started revving or responding. I am aware that these turbo diesels "lag" but didn't realize it was to this extent. Although once it revs it takes off OK. Since I don't know if this is normal or something I should be looking into I welcome your opinion. As a matter of fact all is welcomed to chime in. The more opinions the merrier :-)>>>>Also I am thinking of starting out by removing the fuel tank for a cleanup. How big of a job is this? Is there a risk of running into nasty rusted bolts? Well that's it for now I'll save th e rest for another day :) _______________________________________________ No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:36:01 -0500 (EST) From: "Peter" Subject: FW: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D _______________________________________________ No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com Received: from [209.23.8.28] by mprdmailfe4.nwk.myway.com via HTTP; Sat, 04 Dec 2004 19:34:59 EST X-AntiAbuse: This header was added to track abuse, please include it with any abuse report X-AntiAbuse: ID = dac173e44b3a7517116ad41e14084f21 Reply-to: plandy-at-myway.com From: "Peter" MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: plandy-at-myway.com X-Mailer: PHP Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__d908943c3f6321cabde1e9ade0b0411d"; Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Cc: diesel-benz-at-digest.net To: marcz-at-pobox.com Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:35:00 -0500 Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D - --MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__d908943c3f6321cabde1e9ade0b0411d Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marc, thanks for your great tips. Will check linkage according to your instruction. But I suspect...fuel blockage from crud and algae...unfortunately. But all this remains to be confirmed once the car comes home next week end. OK then the spare tire comes out first and I should see the partition. From there the bolts and tubes, ect. I wouldn't be surprised to find the screen with 1inch layer of crud.....Will let you all know as soon as I get this task going. With Regards,Peter From: Marc [mailto: marcz-at-pobox.com]To: plandy-at-myway.comCc: diesel-benz-at-digest.netDate: Fri, 03 Dec 2004 22:37:51 -0500Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300DHello Peter,On your pedal piece, you may want to look at the linkage in the enginecompartment. Move the one closest to the firewall and watch the restof the linkage. You may be able to see where the slack is. I'd be verycareful what you adjust, though. On the tank, it's easy once it's empty. Remove the partition in your trunkand you'll see it. As I remember, all bolts are in the trunk. Once youdisconnect the hoses (filler and fuel lines to front (to and from engine),and disconnect the fuel sensor wire, it should come right out. I hadmine steam cleaned at a radiator shop back in 1991 when I had analgae problem. I've been using BioBor ever since once in a while.Marc Z in NCPeter wrote:>>>Well where shall I begin? While road testing the MB I noted it required pressing the gas pedal almost close to middle range before the engine started revving or responding. I am aware that these turbo diesels "lag" but didn't realize it was to this extent. Although once it revs it takes off OK. Since I don't know if this is normal or something I should be looking into I welcome your opinion. As a matter of fact all is welcomed to chime in. The more opinions the merrier :-)>>>>Also I am thinking of starting out by removing the fuel tank for a cleanup. How big of a job is this? Is there a risk of running into nasty rusted bolts? Well that's it for now I'll save th e rest for another day :) _______________________________________________ No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com - --MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__d908943c3f6321cabde1e9ade0b0411d Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Marc, thanks for your great tips. Will check linkage according to your instruction. But I suspect...fuel blockage from crud and algae...unfortunately. But all this remains to be confirmed once the car comes home next week end.

OK then the spare tire comes out first and I should see the partition. From there the bolts and tubes, ect. I wouldn't be surprised to find the screen with 1inch layer of crud.....Will let you all know as soon as I get this task going.

With Regards,
Peter

From: Marc [mailto: marcz-at-pobox.com]
To: plandy-at-myway.com
Cc: diesel-benz-at-digest.net
Date: Fri, 03 Dec 2004 22:37:51 -0500
Subject: Re: [db] Schenectady, NY - Newbie - 1984 300D

Hello Peter,

On your pedal piece, you may want to look at the linkage in the engine
compartment. Move the one closest to the firewall and watch the rest
of the linkage. You may be able to see where the slack is. I'd be very
careful what you adjust, though.

On the tank, it's easy once it's empty. Remove the partition in your
trunk
and you'll see it. As I remember, all bolts are in the trunk. Once you
disconnect the hoses (filler and fuel lines to front (to and from engine),
and disconnect the fuel sensor wire, it should come right out. I had
mine steam cleaned at a radiator shop back in 1991 when I had an
algae problem. I've been using BioBor ever since once in a while.

Marc Z in NC

Peter wrote:

>
>
>Well where shall I begin? While road testing the MB I noted it required pressing the gas pedal almost close to middle range before the engine started revving or responding. I am aware that these turbo diesels "lag" but didn't realize it was to this extent. Although once it revs it takes off OK. Since I don't know if this is normal or something I should be looking into I w elcome your opinion. As a matter of fact all is welcomed to chime in. The more opinions the merrier :-)
>
>
>
>Also I am thinking of starting out by removing the fuel tank for a cleanup. How big of a job is this? Is there a risk of running into nasty rusted bolts? Well that's it for now I'll save the rest for another day :)


No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding.
Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com
- --MYWAYBOUNDARY_000__d908943c3f6321cabde1e9ade0b0411d-- ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1643 **********************************