From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sat Dec 18 17:57:14 2004 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Saturday, December 18 2004 Volume 01 : Number 1662 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: [db] Re: FW: Very Funny Re: [db] fw: 2 300TD's f/s in NC [db] Re: ASD question - limited slip or not? Re: [db] Interesting 240D on eBay [db] injector return lines RE: [db] fw: 2 300TD's f/s in NC RE: [db] Die Goldberg....... [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing RE: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing RE: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 22:19:22 -0800 From: john Subject: [db] Re: FW: Very Funny this is funny... love it... I was wondering if that would happen after watching the guy clean that thing off... hysterical... I put it on my server: http://www.wagoneers.com/tmp/IceScraping.WMV :) john At 10:35 AM 12/16/2004, you wrote: >Hear is one for the list. > > > >Living in Texas cant say I relate but you northern guys may be able to >relate. ;) > > > >Waylon Black > >Little Elm, Texas - ------------------------------------------------------------------ john at http://wagoneers.com from Snohomish,WA- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... reminding you not to leave life w/o Jesus! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 22:20:11 -0800 From: Kevin Pekarek Subject: Re: [db] fw: 2 300TD's f/s in NC On Fri, Dec 17, 2004 at 11:18:45PM -0500, Marc wrote: > Hmm, I wonder if your transmission will fit in my '83 Euro 300TD? > > It seems the B2 piston in my trans needs to be replaced and > I've been quoted $1000 to do the job. It flares badly when down > shifting. Turn a corner and when you press the accelerator, it > downshifts, the engine revs, and when the trans "catches" you > almost get whiplash. Unpleasant. Not to mention what it might > be doing to the drivetrain. If it is indeed the B2 piston, it's an easy fix, and should cost nowhere near $1k to fix. If you are handy and have time, you can do it yourself. I can try to dig up the info if that's what is actually wrong. I thought B2 piston failure meant no forward movement. K ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 22:49:13 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] Re: ASD question - limited slip or not? On Fri, 17 Dec 2004, Dave M. wrote: >-->Hi John, >--> >-->Kevin Pekarek gave me your email address. He mentioned that you made a >-->modification of some sort to the ASD system. Could you explain a little more >-->about what you did and why? Also, I'm trying to confirm that the ASD >-->differential acts as limited-slip (about 35% locking) normally, and is not >-->"open" (zero locking) normally, i.e. with no hydraulic pressure. Any info >-->would be appreciated! yes, it has a limited slip with a lockup capability... same as the 4matic models. The limited slip works quite nicely in snow as is. :) I burned up my computer jump starting someone... but I found the solenoid under the back seat, we jumped the connections and voila, the solenoid engages... will run a switch up front and have a momentary contact to engage it... :) when I finally get around to it I'll take pictures. :) john >--> >-->:-) >--> >-->Best regards, >--> >-->Dave M. >--> >-->------ Forwarded Message >-->> From: Kevin Pekarek >-->> Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 11:50:24 -0800 >-->> To: "Dave M." >-->> Subject: Re: [DIESEL] ASD question - limited slip or not? >-->> >-->> On Tue, Dec 07, 2004 at 08:55:03AM -0700, Dave M. wrote: >-->>> I have a question about the ASD (hydraulic locking differential) which was >-->>> optional on a number of 124/140/201 diesels. From the EPC and service manual >-->>> info, it *appears* that the ASD diff acts as a normal limited-slip diff until >-->>> the computer decides to apply hydraulic pressure to the external collars, >-->>> then allowing 100% lockup. Normal LSD only gets to something like 20-40% >-->>> lockup, I believe, depending on the tension of the thrust washer pack >-->>> (adjusts with different thicknesses). >-->>> >-->>> So, if someone has a car equipped with ASD could you do a test for me? Jack >-->>> up the rear end so both wheels are off the ground. Put the tranny in neutral >-->>> and turn one tire. Observe if the other tire spins the opposite direction >-->>> (open diff), or the same direction (indicating limited slip function). Or, if >-->>> anyone knows FOR SURE how it works, that would be fine. Right now there are a >-->>> number of different claims & speculation that aren't matching up well. I'd >-->>> hate to buy >> a used ASD diff, expecting to get cheap LSD by swapping that >-->>> in, only to discover >-->>> it doesn't work...! >-->> >-->> Dave, >-->> >-->> If you don't get any replies, contact a friend of mine who has ASD in his 91 >-->> 300D. He has a problem with his computer, and has figured out some way of >-->> operating it with a switch. His name is John, and his address is >-->> john-at-wagoneers.com >-->> >-->> K >-->> >--> >-->------ End of Forwarded Message >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 08:11:54 -0500 From: Edward Pomeroy Subject: Re: [db] Interesting 240D on eBay Fellows: I bought my 93 300E 2.5 Turbo from this company. The advertised condition was a tad optimistic compared to the actual vehicle and he sort of forgot to mention things like oil leaks and the fact that the A/C had a leak that emptied the Freon within a week of receiving the vehicle. Other than that, the car did run and I am using it as is until I can get the head off and replace the A/C condenser. Have confined the oil to one spot on my driveway so I can clean if up next spring :'( Caveat Emptor with e-bay and complex machinery. Edward Jim Hoffman wrote: >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4509115330&category=6330 > >How do you suppose they got the black on this color scheme? Standard >flat black spray can? I think it looks pretty sharp... > >Jim/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 08:40:25 -0500 From: "Tom Scordato" Subject: [db] injector return lines I have a leak out of #4 and #2 injector, on a 617.9XX engine, non turbo, 1977 300D. Seems I me be such a klutz I consistently put the return lines on wrong and they leak. Is there a proper way to cut these and install them as to reduce chance of leakage? Lines have been purchased from Rusty. Please respond off line ts-at-brdgstn.com Thanks Tom Scordato Bellefonte, PA ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 12:15:49 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: [db] fw: 2 300TD's f/s in NC My memory matches Kevin's here. I thought B2 piston failure would leave you with nothing but reverse. Alec > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Kevin Pekarek > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 12:20 AM > To: Marc > Cc: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: [db] fw: 2 300TD's f/s in NC > > > On Fri, Dec 17, 2004 at 11:18:45PM -0500, Marc wrote: > > Hmm, I wonder if your transmission will fit in my '83 Euro 300TD? > > > > It seems the B2 piston in my trans needs to be replaced and > > I've been quoted $1000 to do the job. It flares badly when down > > shifting. Turn a corner and when you press the accelerator, it > > downshifts, the engine revs, and when the trans "catches" you > > almost get whiplash. Unpleasant. Not to mention what it might > > be doing to the drivetrain. > > If it is indeed the B2 piston, it's an easy fix, and should cost nowhere > near $1k to fix. If you are handy and have time, you can do it yourself. > > I can try to dig up the info if that's what is actually wrong. I > thought B2 > piston failure meant no forward movement. > > K ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 12:18:39 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: [db] Die Goldberg....... My guesses would be that either the vacuum modulator (mounted on the tranny, the vacuum line connects to this) is bad, or something is messed up in the mechanical linkage from the accelerator assembly (Bowden cable). Make sure one of the rods in the accelerator linkage spaghetti goes down behind the engine toward the transmission. If that looks like it's still present and connected, the vacuum modulator itself is probably the next cheapest suspect. Alec > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Jason R Bassett > Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 10:55 PM > To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > Subject: [db] Die Goldberg....... > > > Yeah, he's messing up my tranny.....something is up....the fluid level is > right, the vacuum system is holding vacuum fine.....just hates to > upshift. (I have to wind it up until it hits the motor rev limiter to > shift it, which keeps the engine clean, but throws all my oil on the > ground......not to mention I hate the way it sounds and it uses a lot of > Ron's favorite drink......) > > I have got to do something........ > > The only thing that is even suspicious to me is that the fitting that > goes onto the tranny (with the Goldberg line attached) can spin in > place......makes me wonder if maybe there is a seal gone > inside.....still, when I disconnect a line there is a whoosh......even > with the engine off. > > Help me make Kitty shift! > > Jason > 81 240D "Kitty" (at least 250K) > > P.S.....what kind of idiot uses a bleedoff vacuum system as a throttle > position sensor? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 12:18:30 -0800 From: Noah Dentzel Subject: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing The pump motor on the front right runs then begins to pulsate, I don't know what the other motorlike thing is up on the fire wall that the heater hose connects to, it is silent...and the blower does not work. I do hear the water moving around. Where to go from here? I would like to have a little heat on my way to school in the morning. Thanks, Noah Dentzel, 11th grade (this is my first car) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 15:04:41 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing First of all, congratulations on having what we regulars consider to be a great first car. The bad news is that you'll be spoiled and have a hard time accepting a less well engineered car in the future. ;-) Now on to your questions. If the pump motor you're talking about is the one near the fender for the front right tire, that is the auxiliary water pump. It's job is to keep enough warm coolant circulating when the motor is near idle so that you can get heat inside. At anything much above idle, it is not a necessary part of the heating system. If that motor breaks in certain ways, it can draw too much electrical power and hurt the climate control brains. Some people add an inline fuse to the power wire for that motor. I think you could also just unplug it and not hurt heating above idle. If the thing up on the firewall looks kind of like an upright cylinder and it's just a little to the passenger side of center near the top of the firewall, that's probably the monovalve. Based on an electrical signal it receives from the brains, it allows more or less warm coolant to flow through the heater core. It's not a motor, so you won't hear anything from it. It uses a thin rubber diaphragm, and those sometimes crack or tear over time. If that happens, you don't get enough warm coolant through the heater core, so the system blows air that's not very warm, especially when the car is at speed. That "monovalve insert" can be easily replaced for not much money, but if you do feel warm air coming from the heater when you're moving fast enough for any air to blow through the system, the monovalve is probably still fine. The blower motor is a common failure at 15 or 20 years. For now, it may work if you put the system on defrost mode, but that will only give you full heat and full fan with no way to turn down either. The blower motor lives above the front passenger's feet. A few screws to remove the lower cover panel and you should be able to crawl into the footwell and see the few more screws that hold the blower motor in place. Although a replacement blower is in the neighborhood of a couple hundred bucks, you may be able to bring yours back to life for a good while longer for a good bit less money. Remove it from the footwell, pull the thing straight out of its plastic housing, use some compressed air to blow away all the dust, drop a little automatic transmission fluid on the bearings, and if that doesn't restore it, you can get replacement brushes for the motor from George Murphy (George_Murphy-at-compuserve.com last I knew). He can also describe how to install them, but if I can do it with a cheap Radio Shack soldering iron, you should be able to handle it. First thing to check, though, is the fuses. The fuses MB used have a couple of drawbacks. They can break in ways that are very hard to see, and they can develop a thin layer of corrosion that can affect their performance. The fuse panel is under the hood on the firewall on the driver's side under a mostly rectangular black plastic cover with two big thumbscrew wheels. Try removing and reinserting any relevant fuses. Better yet, spend just a few bucks to get replacements for all of them. Sorry if I've given too much or too basic information, but I want to help make sure you're happy with the car and become another incurable dieselhead like the rest of us. ;-) Regards, Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 89 300CE, 179K > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Noah Dentzel > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 2:19 PM > To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > Subject: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing > > > The pump motor on the front right runs then begins to pulsate, I don't > know what the other motorlike thing is up on the fire wall that the > heater hose connects to, it is silent...and the blower does not work. > I do hear the water moving around. > > Where to go from here? I would like to have a little heat on my way > to school in the morning. > > Thanks, > Noah Dentzel, 11th grade (this is my first car) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 15:46:12 -0600 From: "Sam Williams" Subject: RE: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing Noah, I also offer congratulations on a fine first car! Print out and keep that excellent post from Alec--he covered all the important points. George_Murphy-at-Compuserve.com, whom he recommended, is a great resource for parts and knowledge on your ACC system. He is the only source I know for the special soft brushes for the blower motor. Generic brushes that fit may be too hard and damage the commutator. I recommend you unplug the recirculating pump before it blows (if it hasn't, already) the control module. As Alec said, it isn't strictly necessary for you to get heat--but it is helpful in heavy traffic on very cold days. Enjoy your new car! Some think it's the best model MB made. Sam - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Alec Cordova Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 3:05 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: RE: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing First of all, congratulations on having what we regulars consider to be a great first car. The bad news is that you'll be spoiled and have a hard time accepting a less well engineered car in the future. ;-) Now on to your questions. If the pump motor you're talking about is the one near the fender for the front right tire, that is the auxiliary water pump. It's job is to keep enough warm coolant circulating when the motor is near idle so that you can get heat inside. At anything much above idle, it is not a necessary part of the heating system. If that motor breaks in certain ways, it can draw too much electrical power and hurt the climate control brains. Some people add an inline fuse to the power wire for that motor. I think you could also just unplug it and not hurt heating above idle. If the thing up on the firewall looks kind of like an upright cylinder and it's just a little to the passenger side of center near the top of the firewall, that's probably the monovalve. Based on an electrical signal it receives from the brains, it allows more or less warm coolant to flow through the heater core. It's not a motor, so you won't hear anything from it. It uses a thin rubber diaphragm, and those sometimes crack or tear over time. If that happens, you don't get enough warm coolant through the heater core, so the system blows air that's not very warm, especially when the car is at speed. That "monovalve insert" can be easily replaced for not much money, but if you do feel warm air coming from the heater when you're moving fast enough for any air to blow through the system, the monovalve is probably still fine. The blower motor is a common failure at 15 or 20 years. For now, it may work if you put the system on defrost mode, but that will only give you full heat and full fan with no way to turn down either. The blower motor lives above the front passenger's feet. A few screws to remove the lower cover panel and you should be able to crawl into the footwell and see the few more screws that hold the blower motor in place. Although a replacement blower is in the neighborhood of a couple hundred bucks, you may be able to bring yours back to life for a good while longer for a good bit less money. Remove it from the footwell, pull the thing straight out of its plastic housing, use some compressed air to blow away all the dust, drop a little automatic transmission fluid on the bearings, and if that doesn't restore it, you can get replacement brushes for the motor from George Murphy (George_Murphy-at-compuserve.com last I knew). He can also describe how to install them, but if I can do it with a cheap Radio Shack soldering iron, you should be able to handle it. First thing to check, though, is the fuses. The fuses MB used have a couple of drawbacks. They can break in ways that are very hard to see, and they can develop a thin layer of corrosion that can affect their performance. The fuse panel is under the hood on the firewall on the driver's side under a mostly rectangular black plastic cover with two big thumbscrew wheels. Try removing and reinserting any relevant fuses. Better yet, spend just a few bucks to get replacements for all of them. Sorry if I've given too much or too basic information, but I want to help make sure you're happy with the car and become another incurable dieselhead like the rest of us. ;-) Regards, Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 89 300CE, 179K > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Noah Dentzel > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 2:19 PM > To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > Subject: [db] 1981 300D Heater Not Blowing > > > The pump motor on the front right runs then begins to pulsate, I don't > know what the other motorlike thing is up on the fire wall that the > heater hose connects to, it is silent...and the blower does not work. > I do hear the water moving around. > > Where to go from here? I would like to have a little heat on my way > to school in the morning. > > Thanks, > Noah Dentzel, 11th grade (this is my first car) ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1662 **********************************