From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sat Jan 15 19:35:37 2005 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Saturday, January 15 2005 Volume 01 : Number 1714 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] Admin: Hey Gang Re: [db] Trailer pulling with an 82 300SD [db] tweaking a Diesel [db] CD Player Fix [db] The door dissemble secret... Re: [db] The door dissemble secret... RE: [db] borderline OT, 7.3 IDI IP info Re: [db] Anyone for BioWillie? Re: [db] Admin: Hey Gang Re: [db] Trailer pulling with an 82 300SD Re: [db] The door dissemble secret... [db] For john and other 2.5 owners RE: [db] Admin: Hey Gang Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 21:21:07 -0800 From: "Paul Masterson" Subject: Re: [db] Admin: Hey Gang > Seriously, everyone I've heard of with a W123 300D turbo [that isn't > trying > to sell it] is happy to break 30 with it. Most of the ones I hear float > around the high twenties, with a couple in the mid twenties. The > variability > I've heard seems centered around the IP - pretty much the only thing > different > between the engines. There was some theory to the value the injector > injected > at, can't remember it now though. I have a w116 300sd with pretty much the same engine and have been getting 22mpg or so, I don't think I weigh much more than a w123 model, so I am very interested to hear anything anyone can tell me about trying to squeeze out more from less. Is the IP adjustable (assuming IP is standing for injector pressure or inj. pump) and if it is, where & how can I adjust? I have seen tech data on these that claim 29 mpg can be had from them (when new) so I think I can get a bit out of it. Paul ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 22:58:16 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Trailer pulling with an 82 300SD On Sat, 15 Jan 2005, Andreas Kreft wrote: >-->Am Dunnersdag 13 Januar 2005 21:32 schrieb john: >-->> sweet. 1900kg --> 4188.778 lbs... so my little 2.5L Turbo Diesel >-->> should be able to tow my '75 J10 hydraulic dump trailer, >-->> seeing as how it "only" weighs 1,990 lbs. :) >--> >-->Should be? Definitely is: >--> >--> http://mb124.de/bilder/72_DSC005622.JPG >--> http://mb124.de/bilder/24_PICT0770kl.jpg.jpg >--> http://mb124.de/bilder/24_PICT0769_klm.jpg.jpg >--> >-->You surely have a different benchmark in trailering over there ;-) are you sure? :) what's the weight of the boat and trailer? (were those Diesels?) (My concern is overheating and undue stress on an expensive driveline... I could probably buy an XJ for what it would cost to repair my Mercedes Benz Diesel transmission.... :) these are some shots of my J10 trailer with the XJ... there was a yard of gravel in the trailer at one point, notice how low that box is sitting... that's a half ton pickup bed from a full size jeep sitting nearly on it's bumpstops. :) was trying to find a picture with my benz in it.. (MLC). :) http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/xj-trailer-loaded-at-home.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/yard-before-bobcat.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/up-to-unload.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/waiting-for-rain-to-clean-trailer.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/supervisor-under-cover.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/compost-dump.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/loaded-with-gravel.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-August/xj-pipes-2.jpg of course this is what I pull with my Full Size Jeeps: ;) http://www.wagoneers.com/.images/18wheels.jpg cool pictures Andreas! THANX, john >--> >-->Greetings >-->Andreas >-->-- >-->Truth is the most valuable thing we have -- so let us economize it. >--> -- Mark Twain >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 23:18:44 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] tweaking a Diesel if you start playing with the injection pump you might be able to get it optimized for power & economy... the use of a pyrometer in the turbo output will help... a diesel injection pump repair shop will be able to help, not sure if they have the fittings to mate up to our little turbos or not. ;) if you tweak your pump setting too low, you won't have any power, no real danger, not like leaning out a gas engine.... if you turn it up too much, you'll smoke like a mosquito fogger, fail emissions tests, give Diesels a bad name and risk excess engine wear and if you stand on it too hard under load, melt a hole in the piston(s). The other thing to do is make sure that the injector pump is timed correctly... a fresh chain and valve adjustment will go a long way. Not a lot of variables involved... oh, yeah, you could play with the wastegate setting... The Cummins guys have a lot of info on this stuff... same as the 6.2/6.5 and Ford Diesel folks... also, there is propane injection... you figure it out, test it, and let us know... after you run that way for a year or two, I might try it. ;) john On Fri, 14 Jan 2005, Paul Masterson wrote: >-->> Seriously, everyone I've heard of with a W123 300D turbo [that isn't >-->> trying >-->> to sell it] is happy to break 30 with it. Most of the ones I hear float >-->> around the high twenties, with a couple in the mid twenties. The >-->> variability >-->> I've heard seems centered around the IP - pretty much the only thing >-->> different >-->> between the engines. There was some theory to the value the injector >-->> injected >-->> at, can't remember it now though. >--> >-->I have a w116 300sd with pretty much the same engine >-->and have been getting 22mpg or so, I don't think I weigh >-->much more than a w123 model, so I am very interested >-->to hear anything anyone can tell me about trying to squeeze >-->out more from less. Is the IP adjustable (assuming IP is standing >-->for injector pressure or inj. pump) and if it is, where & how can I adjust? >--> >-->I have seen tech data on these that claim 29 mpg can >-->be had from them (when new) so I think I can get a bit >-->out of it. >--> >-->Paul >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 00:36:03 -0800 From: Noah Dentzel Subject: [db] CD Player Fix Hey Gang, Thanks so much for the help...again Connected the CD player to a continually power source so now it has power and holds presets! Thanks, now I can listen to my mercedes music.!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 00:42:24 -0800 From: Noah Dentzel Subject: [db] The door dissemble secret... Hi Everyone, I was trying to take the side of my door off and was able to unscrew and popoup everything except for one part right around a certain door handle thing. Does anyone know the secret trick to getting the door panel off? Thanks- Noah Dentzel 300D ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 07:31:38 -0500 From: Mike Frank Subject: Re: [db] The door dissemble secret... It's been a while for me, but as I recall there are a coulple of screws in the armrest, and one really tricky one hidden under the door opener pull (the lever you use to unlock the door). This last one isn't obvious: there is what seems to be a solid plastic backing behind the lever. This turns out to be a thin shell, that can be pried out with a small screwdriver. Once it's out, you will find the mystery screw. Also...you need to remove the chrome along the rear edge of the door,and around the lock opening (or at least that was the case on my 300CD). Mike Frank At 03:42 AM 1/15/2005, you wrote: >Hi Everyone, >I was trying to take the side of my door off ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:31:29 -0500 From: "Jim Hoffman" Subject: RE: [db] borderline OT, 7.3 IDI IP info OMG! I was going to suggest http://www.dieselpage.com/fuel.htm because the pump for the 7.3 IDI Turbo is only $397. But the *electronic* GM version is $1010!! And the non-electronic version is $660.91!! I'm glad I have a Ford!! ;) But thanks for the info on the lift pump. The manual describes the process for testing the vacumm for the pump. That's where I saw it ;) Anyway you disconnect the fuel line and disable the IP shutoff so it can't start. Crank the engine and check the vacumm. If it's below a certain value (can't remember and I don't have the manual here) then it's bad and time to replace. Seems easy enough so I'll do that next week when it warms up a bit... It's currently - -1 WITHOUT the windchill!!! ;) Jim/ Jim/ > Jim, > > I don't know about the Ford, but I know the lift pump can be a big deal for > the GM 6.5L....it's one of the first things they tell you to change for any > problem over at the diesel forum (http://forum.62-65-dieselpage.com) My > friend was having some probs recently and put in a new lift pump and said it > made a huge difference for his 93 6.5L Chevy Truck...made it run like new. > The lift pump hadn't even failed...it was just down a few PSI in the pressure > and I guess that makes the IP not work right or something. > > I've got a very strange problem with my 6.5L TD Suburban right now that's > driving me crazy....an engine performance problem throwing a Fuel Solenoid > driver too slow code---which makes the Brand New Tranny Shift very badly, and > I've been trying to avoid getting a new $1K Injection Pump...but I'm fearing > it might come down to that.....but after my friends experience, I think I'll > try the $100 lift pump first...and the Oil pressure switch ($30), probably > would make the new IP work better anyway if it comes to that. > > R, > Scott > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Jim Hoffman > Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 12:02 PM > To: Kevin Pekarek; diesel-benz-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: [db] borderline OT, 7.3 IDI IP info > > > Kevin, > > That was probably me... I've been experiencing some strange fuel > supply problems with my '94 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo... Right now it > appears to only happen when running low on fuel on the midship tank. > It surges (speeds up/slows down) while accelerating and has trouble > starting even when warm. It will start right up and run for about > 5 seconds then die. It will then take about 30 seconds of cranking > to get it started again. Even if it's warm. When I switched to the > rear tank, because I was low on fuel, the problem went away. But > I do suspect that the IP is due for replacement anyway because no > matter which tank I use, it starts hard and runs very rough when cold. > After it warms up it's fine. But you can feel a slight *miss* at > idle. So... it could be the IP, or the lift pump. > > When I *do* finally get a new pump, I'm looking at these guys: > > http://www.dieselpage.com/ > > Anyone do business with them?? > > Thanks for thinking of me Kevin! > > Jim/ > > > Can't remember who it was on here who said they had a wiped out IP on > > an IDI ford. Was talking to a 6.9 guy the other day, and he said that > > some pumps for some reason have difficulty clearing 150k, where some will > > last longer than the engine. He had to get his gone through a while ago, > > took it to a stanadyne shop. FWIW, GM 6.2/6.5 used a stanadyne pump as > well, > > so if a Ford wrench can't point you to the right place, might try a GM > > shop. > > > > K ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 11:15:56 -0500 From: "Jim Hoffman" Subject: Re: [db] Anyone for BioWillie? > >Singer Willie Nelson has a new gig: a company called Willie Nelson's > >Biodiesel that is marketing the fuel to truck stops. > > > >http://g.msn.com/0MNBUS00/2?http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/6826994&&CM=E mailThis&CE=1 > > Well, I was going to start experimenting with 100% biodiesel this week. I got some fuel additive and was going to mix up a batch and put it outside and see if it gelled or not... It's been around -10F at night and 3F during the day. But the bright lights at the supplier took their tote of biodiesel out of the shop and put it outside! It was lard! ;) "The fuel^Rs average U.S. price per gallon is $1.79."???? The supplier by me is charging over $3/gallon! But it's worth it for an experiment. Jim/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 08:21:06 -0800 (PST) From: Jerome Kaidor Subject: Re: [db] Admin: Hey Gang Kevin Pekarek wrote: > > Downhill in neutral. Probably fuelling up at the top of donner pass, > and getting fuel in rocklin, before he reached the bottom. :) > *** I used to have a car that had a freewheel between the clutch and the transmission. When you took your foot off the gas, the engine would go down to idle, and the car would just keep zipping along - especially downhill. Anybody know what kinda car that was? - Jerry Kaidor ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 17:44:20 +0100 From: Andreas Kreft Subject: Re: [db] Trailer pulling with an 82 300SD Am S|nnavend 15 Januar 2005 07:58 schrieben Sie: > what's the weight of the boat and trailer? (were those Diesels?) > (My concern is overheating and undue stress on an expensive driveline... > I could probably buy an XJ for what it would cost to repair my > Mercedes Benz Diesel transmission.... :) The total weight (CE pics) was about 5000lb, more than the allowed 1900kg. No, both cars are M103s (300 TE / CE), but they have the same automatic transmission that your Diesel has. The guy with the CE made it from the Bodensee up to the Danish border (~700mi) without problems. He planned to take his 124 300TDT, but took the coupe with A/C. BTW, even a W124 200TD 75hp can tow 2100kg with paperwork. And people use that here. Mercedes officially stats these numbers. I wouldn't be afraid of damaging the drivetrain - the engine cooling system is designed to handle such a load, and I never ever heard of an overheated / damaged torque converter transmission; lots of people put "heavy" caravans (1500-2000kg) on their Benzes and ride the Alps. Recently I pulled a 1500kg trailer with my 89 230TE (M102). Had about 700kg of concrete tubes in the boot. No problem for the car. Hey, I even hit 75 mph :-) Greetings Andreas - -- Q: Why is Christmas just like a day at the office? A: You do all of the work and the fat guy in the suit gets all the credit. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 11:22:53 -0600 From: Jan Guthrie Subject: Re: [db] The door dissemble secret... On the other hand, it could depend upon what year your 300D is..... since they were made in more than the 123 body style. Jan Mike Frank wrote: > It's been a while for me, but as I recall there are a coulple of screws in > the armrest, and one really tricky one hidden under the door opener pull > (the lever you use to unlock the door). This last one isn't obvious: there > is what seems to be a solid plastic backing behind the lever. This turns > out to be a thin shell, that can be pried out with a small screwdriver. > Once it's out, you will find the mystery screw. Also...you need to remove > the chrome along the rear edge of the door,and around the lock opening (or > at least that was the case on my 300CD). > > Mike Frank > > At 03:42 AM 1/15/2005, you wrote: > >Hi Everyone, > >I was trying to take the side of my door off ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 13:09:57 -0600 From: "Flash" Subject: [db] For john and other 2.5 owners Here's a guy from Hooterville, WI - Jim's neighborhood who tweaked his 300D 2.5 and has gotten rave reviews (he raves) about the performance. These may be understandable tweaks, and something John with his 2.5 and others here with 2.5 may want to try? Let us know what happens, if/when, john, others... DanG ChicagoArea ==================== I've decided to go into great detail of what I did to the 2.5. The white 2.5 had a blown head gasket when I got the car. It contaminated a number of vacuum items, which is why I started bypassing stuff. 1) Overboost protection canister. Small one on the driver's side firewall. Had soot in it, and prevented the ALDA from sensing pressure. Bypassed. I don't think that I've had ONE of these work correctly on any turbo. They all get sooted up eventually. 2) EGR. Also full of soot. I have a good replacement, but haven't gotten around to replacing it. An EGR on a diesel is a dumb idea anyways because feeding soot back into the intake is not good for it. Bypass is easy. Keep the electrical connections intact to the vacuum pod. The signal to open and close will be there, and the computer will be happy. Disconnecting the vacuum lines and bypassing is all that needs to be done. 3) Turbo wastegate vacuum pod. The wastegate has a vacuum failsafe that is normally open with zero vacuum. Bypass is to connect the wastegate vacuum (which is the electrical/vacuum pod closest to the passenger side headlight, low in the inner front fender), and hook it directly to the main vacuum system. My wastegate vacuum pod leaks, and I need to replace it. Bypassing is only temporary, as that particular failsafe is not good to ignore for too long. The key to preserving the computer happiness is not disconnecting the electrical harness to the vacuum pod. 4) Secondary turbo fault sensor. If something is very fucked up with the computer or sensors, the secondary sensor which is mounted by the battery, opens to kill boost pressure to the ALDA. Bypass is easy for troubleshootin g. The only reason why you would want to bypass this for any reason is to find other faults. My point is that the highly sophisticated computer controlled turbo system can be made very simple. Call it emergency road repair 101. If you have a full time vacuum direct connect to the turbo wastegate, you'll have turbo. If you have a single pressure line from the intake manifold to the ALDA, you'll have appropriate fuel enrichment. Leaving electrical items attached to the vacuum pods keeps the computer happy and compliant. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:23:33 -0600 From: "Sam Williams" Subject: RE: [db] Admin: Hey Gang Jerry, Probably a DKW -- they were so popular in the states. Maybe a SAAB or anything else with a 2 cycle engine. Since oil is mixed in the fuel, taking foot off gas while engine runs at high speed provides insufficient lubrication. I think several 4 cycle cars offered this as a feature, too--maybe as late as 1930s. The feature disappeared soon after a significant number of purchasers perished in crashes at bottom or halfway down big hills. My SAAB had huge finned drum brakes but I still switched off freewheeling when driving in mountains. Don't know of any MBs or diesel vehicles with freewheeling. Sam - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Jerome Kaidor Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:21 AM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: Re: [db] Admin: Hey Gang Kevin Pekarek wrote: > > Downhill in neutral. Probably fuelling up at the top of donner pass, > and getting fuel in rocklin, before he reached the bottom. :) > *** I used to have a car that had a freewheel between the clutch and the transmission. When you took your foot off the gas, the engine would go down to idle, and the car would just keep zipping along - especially downhill. Anybody know what kinda car that was? - Jerry Kaidor ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1714 **********************************