From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Tue Sep 27 19:47:15 2005 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Wednesday, September 28 2005 Volume 01 : Number 1969 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] Leaky 190D & "fleet" update [db] Biodiesel Re: [db] Biodiesel [db] 84 300SD air filter Re: [db] 84 300SD air filter Re: [db] Leaky 190D & "fleet" update [db] Re: XJ: what kind of lift? [db] 1987 190d turbo question Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question [db] Fuses Re: [db] Fuses Re: [db] Fuses Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 14:08:48 -0700 From: Kevin Subject: Re: [db] Leaky 190D & "fleet" update On Tue, Sep 27, 2005 at 02:50:58PM +0100, Stephen Rigley wrote: > So... 190D .. engine was washed down and the source of the leak is... > what appears to be the Brake Vaccum Valve type thing (not sure exactly > what its called... on front of engine block just to the left of the > screw in fuel filter), it's also the source of the "clatter" we've > been having... > Anyone replaced one of these before? Will the whole unit need to be > done or is it just a matter of a gasket change? WHOA. Are you saying you have an oil leak coming from the vacuum pump? if so, replace it NOW before it implodes and shoots little pebbles from the bearings into the engine. They usually last on the 60x engines around 200-250k miles, which would probably be somewhere around 310-320k km (just guessing on that figure). They get noisy as they age, and you've identified where the pump is on my 87 300D and TD. Unlike on the older engines, the pump isn't easily rebuildable, and you're better off procuring a new one. The new revision likely will not have the basket below it to catch the parts that fling out (!), that did a bad job of catching the parts that fling out. K ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 17:13:49 -0400 From: "Jim Hoffman" Subject: [db] Biodiesel I can't remember if I gave all the info on this or not... The Diesel Stop is a forum mostly for Ford diesel truck owners. However, there is a thread for "Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels". You folks out there that are interested in this stuff might find it very interesting. And I'm sure they won't care that you don't have a Ford truck ;) http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/ Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels Is it Kevin that has the Powerchoke? There is a nice community of Powerchoke owners there too. I follow the IDI threads. Have fun guys! We need to get someone brewing some biodiesel so we can get instructions!! Jim ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 14:20:53 -0700 From: Kevin Subject: Re: [db] Biodiesel On Tue, Sep 27, 2005 at 05:13:49PM -0400, Jim Hoffman wrote: > Is it Kevin that has the Powerchoke? There is a nice community of > Powerchoke owners there too. I follow the IDI threads. One of the people, yes, though I think I'm one of the few people that uses that name as a term of affection for his truck. 243k on the original engine so far, though. I've also heard powersmoke (which mine got called after shooting a spark out of the starter that went about ten feet) and flowerchoke. Speaking of powersmoke starters, Kragen wanted $215 plus $180 core for the starter that is in the truck now. Summit Racing and Four Wheel Parts both sell a NEW powermaster for $220. Starter's about the size of a 20 oz bottle of coke, so DON'T use mercedes starting techniques to start it :) I still have a Ford bulletin that suggested not running higher than B5 in a powerstroke. I haven't run any bio through it. K ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 14:32:46 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] 84 300SD air filter On Tue, 27 Sep 2005, Charles Redell wrote: >-->> Can you help me find the right air filter for my 84 300d turbo please? >-->The FRAM part number for my air filter is CA3725 >-->thanks, >-->c charles, you're in luck: amsoil part number S1118 - special order lifetime/or two stage air filter for the 300SD! john meister (cust number 283461) ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://JohnMeister.com **** http://wagoneers.com ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold ** http://freegift.net *** http://greatcom.org/laws/languages.html ** - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 17:08:08 -0500 From: acordova-at-texas.net Subject: Re: [db] 84 300SD air filter Rusty at www.buymbparts.com has real OEM Hengst and Mann air filters for $15.33 and $17.11, respectively. He does also show a K&N for $56.78, but don't ask us about using K&N on your engine. Some of us can get ugly about that. Then while you're buying a correct air filter from Rusty, you might as well get OEM oil (<$9) and fuel (~$9) filters. Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 89 300CE, 193K Quoting john : > On Tue, 27 Sep 2005, Charles Redell wrote: > >-->> Can you help me find the right air filter for my 84 300d turbo > please? > >-->The FRAM part number for my air filter is CA3725 > >-->thanks, > >-->c > > charles, you're in luck: amsoil part number S1118 > - special order lifetime/or two stage air filter for the 300SD! > > john meister > (cust number 283461) > > > > ---- > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ** http://JohnMeister.com **** http://wagoneers.com ** > Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > ** http://freegift.net *** http://greatcom.org/laws/languages.html ** > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 15:21:33 -0700 From: derick-at-amburgey.us Subject: Re: [db] Leaky 190D & "fleet" update I agree with K, my first 190d rebuild was because of this failure. The vacuum pump works via ball bearing roller onto a sine wave advance cam connected to the IP. The bearings fail and drop into the oil pan (best case scenario). Or they get caught up in the timing chain and blow out your timing chain cover (this happened to me) It also caused the advance cam gear to separate which "tweaked" the IP pump shaft enough to kill it. If you pull the Vacuum pump you will see what is left of the bearing. The shaft will look like it is wearing a ring because the ball bearings are in your oil pan. The news is now that it has happened most of the danger is gone. You need to replace the pump ASAP because what is left on the cam is acting like a high RPM jack hammer on your IP advance cam gear. Make sure you include the VIN number with your parts order to ensure you get the right gasket. (how do I know this...) It is an easy repair, messy, but easy. Getting the ball bearings out of the pan. The first thing I would try is tilting the car so the drain plug is the lowest point. Get a really strong magnet and try to coax them out through the drain plug hole.This may work because the pan is Aluminum and the bearing steel. You may get lucky and they will come out when you drain the pan. The other alternatives to this are: Removing the oil pan, this is more involved due to the things that need to be removed or moved. You may try to access the pan by removing the timing chain cover chain and go fishing though the top with a magnet. Either way it will require removal of many components. The pick up screen on the oil pump will keep the ball bearings out of the engine in the interim. Personal opinion is I would ;pull the pan and clean it that way the lingering doubt would be gone. Good luck, Derick > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: [SPAM] Re: [db] Leaky 190D & "fleet" update > From: Kevin > Date: Tue, September 27, 2005 2:08 pm > To: Stephen Rigley > Cc: diesel-benz list > > On Tue, Sep 27, 2005 at 02:50:58PM +0100, Stephen Rigley wrote: > > So... 190D .. engine was washed down and the source of the leak is... > > what appears to be the Brake Vaccum Valve type thing (not sure exactly > > what its called... on front of engine block just to the left of the > > screw in fuel filter), it's also the source of the "clatter" we've > > been having... > > Anyone replaced one of these before? Will the whole unit need to be > > done or is it just a matter of a gasket change? > > WHOA. Are you saying you have an oil leak coming from the vacuum pump? > if so, replace it NOW before it implodes and shoots little pebbles from > the bearings into the engine. They usually last on the 60x engines around > 200-250k miles, which would probably be somewhere around 310-320k km (just > guessing on that figure). They get noisy as they age, and you've identified > where the pump is on my 87 300D and TD. > > Unlike on the older engines, the pump isn't easily rebuildable, and you're > better off procuring a new one. The new revision likely will not have the > basket below it to catch the parts that fling out (!), that did a bad job > of catching the parts that fling out. > > K ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 15:36:43 -0700 (PDT) From: "ernest breakfield" Subject: [db] Re: XJ: what kind of lift? best answer? none. (sorry!) later model (post '97 or so) XJs are notorious for developing debilitating vibes after even minimal (or *no*) lift that can only be addressed by methods that don't apply to anyone "on a budget". if you're going to be doing a lift on a late XJ, you need to be prepared to deal with the likelihood of vibes, and to do that properly requires a fixed-output short tailcone housing conversion for the T'Case and a double-cardan driveshaft; that alone costs more than any cheap lift. i have to ask; why are you lifting it? (not trying to be a smart-a**, but) if it's better trail performance you're after, you're better off with just Anti-Sway Bar disconnects and trimming the fenders (if necessary to fit better/larger tires and not doing any lift at all. that'll get you remarkable axle articulation and the better axle and tire clearance you need without as much of a compromised (raised) Center of Gravity, and zero risk of requiring driveline modifications. good 30" tires are do-able with minimal trimming, and with anti-sway bar discos (or completely removed bars) will get you more places than a lift with cheap tires. (be aware that you won't be able to fit anything larger than a 30" spare in the stock location anyway, and you *always* want to have a matching spare. the only place to put it that won't screw with your Coefficient of Drag and/or CG or your storage space is a rear bumper mount, and that's out of the "on a budget" range again.) my advice? get some anti-sway bar disconnects for the front, ditch the rear A-S Bar (if you have one), get the best *5* tires you can on it (235/75-15s will usually fit with little or no trimming), and have fun with it while you save the rest of the money you're going to need to do the next step properly. many people (especially non-XJ owners!) will be amazed at what an XJ can do with just decent tires and the axles freed to be able to fully articulate. if you're trying to lift it for just looks... i can't help you. ;-P cheers! e '94 XJ OME, TeraFlex, MT/Rs, JB Conversions, blah blah... > What kind of lift kit for a 2000 jeep Cherokee would u recommend for a kid > with a tight budget? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 16:11:42 -0700 From: "derick" Subject: [db] 1987 190d turbo question Hello if anyone on the list has the 1987 turbo or non turbo, could you tell me what side the heater hoses attach to the heater core? Thanks Derick No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 16:22:39 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question does this help: http://JohnMeister.com/DieselBenz/CARS/87-300d/engine.jpg :) john On Tue, 27 Sep 2005, derick wrote: >-->Hello if anyone on the list has the 1987 turbo or non turbo, could you tell >-->me what side the heater hoses attach to the heater core? >--> >--> >--> >-->Thanks >--> >--> >--> >-->Derick >-->No virus found in this outgoing message. >-->Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >-->Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://JohnMeister.com **** http://wagoneers.com ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold ** http://freegift.net *** http://greatcom.org/laws/languages.html ** - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 20:01:57 -0400 From: Michael Frank Subject: Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question They are to the right of the motor, if that's what you're asking. Mike Frank At 07:11 PM 9/27/2005, derick wrote: >Hello if anyone on the list has the 1987 turbo or non turbo, could you tell >me what side the heater hoses attach to the heater core? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 20:53:17 -0400 From: Michael Frank Subject: [db] Fuses Has anyone managed to replace their bullet fuse box with a modern-style (ATC) block? Just had my millionth non-conductive fuse problem, and I wish I could make it my last. This one was cute...I turned on the hazard lights, and the radio stopped working. Turned the hazard warning off, and half a minute later, the radio clicked on. Then, when I opened the door, the light was dim and the radio turned off again. Thought I'd need an exorcist. Replaced lucky fuse 13, sprayed with Deoxit, walked around the car three times, slaughtered a chicken, and everything ok...for now. And the Jaguar guys think that Lucas is bad.... Mike Frank ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 18:17:46 -0700 From: Kevin Subject: Re: [db] Fuses On Tue, Sep 27, 2005 at 08:53:17PM -0400, Michael Frank wrote: > Has anyone managed to replace their bullet fuse box with a modern-style > (ATC) block? Just had my millionth non-conductive fuse problem, and I wish > I could make it my last. This one was cute...I turned on the hazard lights, > and the radio stopped working. Turned the hazard warning off, and half a > minute later, the radio clicked on. Then, when I opened the door, the light > was dim and the radio turned off again. Thought I'd need an exorcist. > Replaced lucky fuse 13, sprayed with Deoxit, walked around the car three > times, slaughtered a chicken, and everything ok...for now. And the Jaguar > guys think that Lucas is bad.... HAHAHAHAHAHAH. That's one of the better ones I've heard in a while :) And Lucas is bad, at least your car starts reliably in the rain. K ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:18:03 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Fuses you know, I think I may need that chicken... my alarm system and door lock system seem to be in some battle of wits or something... I used the "silent" mode to lock the doors the other night and when I came out in the morning to unlock, no happiness... had to use the key to open up... then while driving along hit a bump and now all works again... weird... have you tried those glass fuses? the wiring harnesses are so tight on german cars that trying to wire in a spade fuse setup would be quite the challenge, besides, those things oxidize worse than these german fuses!!! john On Tue, 27 Sep 2005, Michael Frank wrote: > -->Has anyone managed to replace their bullet fuse box with a modern-style > -->(ATC) block? Just had my millionth non-conductive fuse problem, and I wish I > -->could make it my last. This one was cute...I turned on the hazard lights, > -->and the radio stopped working. Turned the hazard warning off, and half a > -->minute later, the radio clicked on. Then, when I opened the door, the light > -->was dim and the radio turned off again. Thought I'd need an exorcist. > -->Replaced lucky fuse 13, sprayed with Deoxit, walked around the car three > -->times, slaughtered a chicken, and everything ok...for now. And the Jaguar > -->guys think that Lucas is bad.... > --> > -->Mike Frank > --> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://JohnMeister.com **** http://wagoneers.com ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold ** http://freegift.net *** http://greatcom.org/laws/languages.html ** - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:32:02 -0700 From: "derick" Subject: Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question Okay, so they attach to the heater core on the driver side of the vehicle? If this is the case it is the same as my 84/85 190d. Trying to help a co-worker out with his car. Thanks to all who responded thus far and in advance, Derick - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Michael Frank Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 5:02 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: [SPAM] Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question They are to the right of the motor, if that's what you're asking. Mike Frank At 07:11 PM 9/27/2005, derick wrote: >Hello if anyone on the list has the 1987 turbo or non turbo, could you tell >me what side the heater hoses attach to the heater core? - -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 - -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:46:33 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question so who helped the most? ;) rofl... (sometimes it seems like a contest to see who can get the helpful answer out first... ;) john On Tue, 27 Sep 2005, derick wrote: >-->Okay, so they attach to the heater core on the driver side of the vehicle? >-->If this is the case it is the same as my 84/85 190d. >-->Trying to help a co-worker out with his car. >--> >-->Thanks to all who responded thus far and in advance, >--> >-->Derick >--> >-->-----Original Message----- >-->From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On >-->Behalf Of Michael Frank >-->Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 5:02 PM >-->To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net >-->Subject: [SPAM] Re: [db] 1987 190d turbo question >--> >-->They are to the right of the motor, if that's what you're asking. >--> >-->Mike Frank >--> >-->At 07:11 PM 9/27/2005, derick wrote: >-->>Hello if anyone on the list has the 1987 turbo or non turbo, could you tell >-->>me what side the heater hoses attach to the heater core? >--> >--> >--> >-->-- >-->No virus found in this incoming message. >-->Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >-->Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 >--> >--> >--> >--> >-->-- >-->No virus found in this outgoing message. >-->Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >-->Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://JohnMeister.com **** http://wagoneers.com ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold ** http://freegift.net *** http://greatcom.org/laws/languages.html ** - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #1969 **********************************