From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Thu Mar 30 22:00:44 2006 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Friday, March 31 2006 Volume 01 : Number 2124 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] leaking evaps [db] OT: New Toy Re: [db] OT: New Toy Re: [db] OT: New Toy [db] Parking Brake Mechanism - W126 Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 11:07:56 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] leaking evaps hadn't thought about the drain being plugged up... not sure if it smells like bad cheese or dog doodoo... ;) john:wq On Wed, 29 Mar 2006, Tom Harais wrote: > -->> there is a smell in the hvac system when I first start it up... think > -->> it's > -->> mold/mildew... when I spray febreeze into the fan intake under the hood > -->> it > -->> goes away for a few days... if the evap was leaking i wonder if taht > -->> could > -->> be the smell... > -->> > -->> john > -->> > -->> > -->> > -->John: > --> > -->Use Lysol or some other disinfectant that will help kill the mold spores > -->rather than just mask the smell. Also, be sure that drain house from the > -->evap housing is clear so that condensate can drain. Just running a soft > -->wire up through it can be sufficient. > --> > -->Tom H., '87 300SDL > --> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://JohnMeister.com **** http://wagoneers.com ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold ** http://freegift.net *** http://greatcom.org/laws/languages.html ** - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- to fry some phish: http://castlecops.com/pirt - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 05:56:51 -0800 (PST) From: "Jerry Kaidor" Subject: [db] OT: New Toy Just scored on Ebay: A Miller "Maxstar 150 STL" TIG welder. This thing is supposed to be smaller than a breadbox, weighs 15 pounds or so, and works off 110 or 220 without fuss. I understand there's not even a 110/220 switch - the inverter just works off the full range of voltages. First task: to weld up the door post on the 300SD. It's got a crack in it where the door stop strap connects, and the whole thing flexes when you open the door. I was tempted to buy a Chinese machine - they have inexpensive units that do TIG, Stick and Plasma cutter all in one. But a welder friend convinced me to stick with the American stuff. - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry-at-tr2.com ) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 07:33:52 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] OT: New Toy pictures, specs, details... sounds great... john On Thu, 30 Mar 2006, Jerry Kaidor wrote: >-->Just scored on Ebay: A Miller "Maxstar 150 STL" TIG welder. This thing >-->is supposed to be smaller than a breadbox, weighs 15 pounds or so, and works >-->off 110 or 220 without fuss. I understand there's not even a 110/220 >-->switch - the inverter just works off the full range of voltages. >--> >--> First task: to weld up the door post on the 300SD. It's got a crack >-->in it where the door stop strap connects, and the whole thing flexes when >-->you open the door. >--> >--> I was tempted to buy a Chinese machine - they have inexpensive units >-->that do TIG, Stick and Plasma cutter all in one. But a welder friend >-->convinced me to stick with the American stuff. >--> >--> - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry-at-tr2.com ) >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** http://JohnMeister.com **** http://wagoneers.com ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold ** http://freegift.net *** http://greatcom.org/laws/languages.html ** - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- to fry some phish: http://castlecops.com/pirt - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 07:29:06 -0800 (PST) From: "Jerry Kaidor" Subject: Re: [db] OT: New Toy > pictures, specs, details... sounds great... http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/spec_sheets/DC27-1.pdf I have a friend who does custom ironwork for the pebble beach crowd. He has lots of welding equipment, and this is his favorie, the one he uses the most. Damn thing only weighs 13.7 pounds! The only big missing feature is AC - so it can't weld aluminum. To complete the package I need a auto-darkening helmet and a bottle of Argon gas. Wait, I already have the argon gas! Bought it umpteen years ago for a cheap Italian MIG welder - which never worked well. For $850, I got the machine, the fingertip remote control, and a tungsten grinder. Supposed to be almost brand new - lady just welded at church on Sundays :). They're available brand new for $1080 inc shipping from ram welding. But that's without the remote or the grinder. - Jerry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 21:56:01 -0800 From: Tom Harais Subject: [db] Parking Brake Mechanism - W126 O.K. guys. My parking brake light has been staying after parking brake release for so long that I forgot what may have occured to cause it to start doing this in the first place. It is getting irritating. When I release the brake, the pedal is "floppy" and it still trips the switch. If I hold it up with my left foot, the light goes off. I had assumed that a spring had come off or broke and I did get up under the dash on my back to see what I could see. The problem was that my close up vision has gotten so bad combined with the brake mechanism being pretty much hidden behind lots of other stuff such that I couldn't really see anything and figured I'd fix it some other time. Well, the other time is now! Can anyone tell me if there is a return spring on the brake pedal lever in the first place? If not, what else could leave it hanging loose after release such that it rests against the switch and activates the light? Tom H., '87 300 SDL ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #2124 **********************************