From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Fri Apr 6 07:27:54 2007 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Friday, April 6 2007 Volume 01 : Number 2436 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? Re: [db] W123 200T Diesel... Brakes.. [db] value??? J10 hydraulic dump trailer... Re: [db] W123 200T Diesel... Brakes.. (and a quick cylinder head related Q) Re: [db] W123 200T Diesel... Brakes.. (and a quick cylinder head related Q) Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 10:43:07 -0700 From: Kevin Subject: Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 10:48:25AM -0700, john wrote: > On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Kevin wrote: > >-->On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 08:59:19AM -0700, john wrote: > >-->> thanx... just don't want to be towing something bigger than > >-->> necessary... :) My cj-2a is only about 10 feet long. :) > >--> > >-->Get two. :) > > dang, got rid of one... :) More seriously, the farther away from the hitch the axles are the easier the trailer is going to be to back up. The shorter trailers can be a bit of a pain, especially if you are using something with a long wheel base to back it up. FSJs are great for backing up trailers. 4x4 crew cab duallies leave a little to be desired, especially if it's a jet ski trailer :-/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 13:13:47 -0500 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? I remember my father-in-law welded a trailer ball to the front of an old sliding-door postal jeep so he could more easily maneuver a relatively long flatbed trailer around the property. It does take a little getting used to compared to having the trailer behind you, but it sure does make it easy to park the trailer EXACTLY where you want it. Keep in mind, he never used the little Jeep to pull (or push) the trailer on real roads. He went through a couple of Dodge D250 regular trucks, with the Cummins and a nice gooseneck hitch in the bed right above the rear diff, for any real trailering work. Alec On 4/5/07, Kevin wrote: > On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 10:48:25AM -0700, john wrote: > > On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Kevin wrote: > > >-->On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 08:59:19AM -0700, john wrote: > > >-->> thanx... just don't want to be towing something bigger than > > >-->> necessary... :) My cj-2a is only about 10 feet long. :) > > >--> > > >-->Get two. :) > > > > dang, got rid of one... :) > > More seriously, the farther away from the hitch the axles are the easier the > trailer is going to be to back up. The shorter trailers can be a bit of a > pain, especially if you are using something with a long wheel base to back > it up. FSJs are great for backing up trailers. 4x4 crew cab duallies leave > a little to be desired, especially if it's a jet ski trailer :-/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 11:32:33 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? that's why I put a long tongue on the J10 trailer... actually it's probably a couple inches longer than it needs to be, doesn't track in the same wheelbase as the tow vehicle, you have to swing out a little to clear curbs... but it backs like a dream... I could drive this thing down the road backwards. ;) On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Kevin wrote: >-->On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 10:48:25AM -0700, john wrote: >-->> On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Kevin wrote: >-->> >-->On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 08:59:19AM -0700, john wrote: >-->> >-->> thanx... just don't want to be towing something bigger than >-->> >-->> necessary... :) My cj-2a is only about 10 feet long. :) >-->> >--> >-->> >-->Get two. :) >-->> >-->> dang, got rid of one... :) >--> >-->More seriously, the farther away from the hitch the axles are the easier the >-->trailer is going to be to back up. The shorter trailers can be a bit of a >-->pain, especially if you are using something with a long wheel base to back >-->it up. FSJs are great for backing up trailers. 4x4 crew cab duallies leave >-->a little to be desired, especially if it's a jet ski trailer :-/ >--> ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 11:36:53 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? I've put a hitch on the front of a few rigs, it does make it easy to move them around. :) john On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Alec Cordova wrote: > -->I remember my father-in-law welded a trailer ball to the front of an > -->old sliding-door postal jeep so he could more easily maneuver a > -->relatively long flatbed trailer around the property. > --> > -->It does take a little getting used to compared to having the trailer > -->behind you, but it sure does make it easy to park the trailer EXACTLY > -->where you want it. > --> > -->Keep in mind, he never used the little Jeep to pull (or push) the > -->trailer on real roads. He went through a couple of Dodge D250 regular > -->trucks, with the Cummins and a nice gooseneck hitch in the bed right > -->above the rear diff, for any real trailering work. > --> > -->Alec > --> > -->On 4/5/07, Kevin wrote: > -->> On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 10:48:25AM -0700, john wrote: > -->> > On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Kevin wrote: > -->> > > -->On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 08:59:19AM -0700, john wrote: > -->> > > --> > thanx... just don't want to be towing something bigger than > -->> > > --> > necessary... :) My cj-2a is only about 10 feet long. :) > -->> > > --> > -->> > > -->Get two. :) > -->> > > -->> > dang, got rid of one... :) > -->> > -->> More seriously, the farther away from the hitch the axles are the easier > -->> the > -->> trailer is going to be to back up. The shorter trailers can be a bit of a > -->> pain, especially if you are using something with a long wheel base to back > -->> it up. FSJs are great for backing up trailers. 4x4 crew cab duallies leave > -->> a little to be desired, especially if it's a jet ski trailer :-/ > --> ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 12:08:37 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Eagle Trailer MFG, Portland OR? this is a serious unit I'm getting then, two 5,000lb axles... I wonder if I could convert the tongue to a surge brake setup so I don't have to deal with electric brake setups on two jeeps... john On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Kevin wrote: >-->For what it's worth, my 16 footer with two 3500 lb axles has pulled cars >-->as light as an XJ or a v8 hornet or a W201, and as big as a 1979 dodge D300 >-->club cab one ton dually. Dodge fit well enough that I'm a bit concerned about >-->the K30 crew cab dually I need to move one of these days. Had an 86 grand >-->marquis wagon on it too, since you mentioned it :) >--> >-->My trailer came from a manufacturer in idaho, who, for the same price as >-->a big tex, sold a trailer with brakes on both axles. Makes a difference in >-->the hills... >--> >-->On Thu, Apr 05, 2007 at 11:33:03AM -0400, Jim Hoffman wrote: >-->> Well, I think my FIL paid about $1200 for this one brand >-->> new. "Too long"?!?! I guess I don't understand the >-->> question... ;) In my general rule "bigger is better" >-->> I'd keep an 18 footer if I had it. As for too heavy, >-->> that depends on what you're going to pull it with. I've >-->> pulled small cars (Dodge Omni) with it pulled by my Dodge >-->> Grand Caravan with a 3.3 liter V6. I regularly pull my >-->> 1939 Allis Chalmers Model B farm tractor on it behind the >-->> Grand Caravan. I probably wouldn't prefer an 18 footer >-->> if I was pulling it behind the van. >-->> >-->> Jim >-->> >-->> > what are these things worth? >-->> > >-->> > I could fix the fenders, deck, sell it and get a shorter one, eh? >-->> > thst is if 18 feet is too long for normal car hauling... >-->> > >-->> > thoughts? >-->> > john >-->> > >-->> > >-->> > >-->> > On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Jim Hoffman wrote: >-->> > >-->> > >-->Mine is an even 16' long. Makes it nice when replacing >-->> > >-->the planks ;) I have to replace the entire bed this >-->> > >-->summer with some nice preasure treaded stuff... I haven't >-->> > >-->found any vehicles that I can't haul with it yet. The >-->> > >-->largest was a '80 Mercury Grand Marquee Wagon. It fit >-->> > >-->fine. >--> ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2007 17:57:24 -0700 From: Greg Fiorentino Subject: Re: [db] W123 200T Diesel... Brakes.. Take the opportunity to change out the old fluid. I used my mity vac with the brake bleeder attachment. Worked fine. I also used blue DOT 4 (German stuff) to replace the old stuff in there. It was easy to tell when it all came out when the fluid runs blue. A liter costs about $8-$10 from Rusty and should be enough for 2 cars. Greg Fiorentino Vancouver USA '85 300SD Turbo '80 240D 4-speed '79 300TD '97 7.3L F250 HD 4WD Crew Cab john wrote: could use your vacuum pump as well... haven't figured out how to use mine successfully for this... use a one-man bleeder tool, but the line into a jar of clean brakefluid works just as well. :) john On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Alec Cordova wrote: -->Don't skip the bleeding. Use this as an excuse to get one of those -->positive pressure blake bleeding setups, and flush all the old fluid. --> -->Alec --> -->On 4/3/07, john wrote: -->> replacing the brake line from the caliper to the steel line shouldn't -->> be hard, unless it's rusted on solid... soak it in something and be -->> careful not to twist the steel line. this part should not cost much -->> at all... this is a part that often gets replaced on 4x4s when we -->> lift them... need a longer hose. ;) -->> -->> I would guess a pair of 8 or 10mm wrenches, one to hold, the other -->> to turn, is all that will be needed. Would recommend bleeding -->> afterwards.... -->> or, connect the line at the top, let gravity run fluid through the -->> line, then connect to the caliper... you might get away without bleeding -->> the caliper. -->> -->> john -->> -->> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: -->> -->> > -->Discovered on Sunday why the brakes on the Estate seemed a bit soft.. -->> > -->split rubber brake lines just before the caliper! -->> > -->Is this difficult to replace or is it just a case of unbolting from -->> > -->both ends and putting in the new one? Is it likely I'm going to be -->> > -->under there for several hours splitting knuckles? -->> > -->Thanks -->> > -->Steve No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.26/748 - Release Date: 4/5/2007 3:33 PM ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 21:41:49 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] value??? J10 hydraulic dump trailer... Any ideas on the value of this trailer???? 3, 4, 5, 6 K???? it comes with the factory canopy, frame mounted tool box an onboard deep cycle gel cell, trickle charger, surge activated disc brakes, hydraulic pump with dual cylinders... I'm sure there's at least a grand in parts alone for the hydraulics, brakes, metal, bed liner, electrical, tool box... built over about five years... at least. This is about the sixth trailer I've built... and the most elaborate, and easiest to tow... :) http://wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/trailer-in-use-1.jpg http://wagoneers.com/fotos/2004/a-day-in-September/compost-dump.jpg http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/J10-trailer/trailer-16.jpg http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/J10-trailer/ The flatbed will be coming home soon as I get the time to drive out in the field next door and retrieve it... will put a tool box on the front... build stakes for it and figure out a way of making a box for gravel/topsoil... :) will be fun... john ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 09:22:33 +0100 From: "Stephen Rigley" Subject: Re: [db] W123 200T Diesel... Brakes.. (and a quick cylinder head related Q) Thanks folks, Going to pick up a brake pipe from OTTO today, I have an in house Brake-bleeding helper so won't be needing the one-man kit. Saw the blue fluid in the motor factors the other day, great idea and will probably use it. Cheers Steve P.S. Am removing the head off a w124 2.3 coupe at the moment.. everything detatched including the chain, all torx + allen bolts out.. but the head won't come off... any tips? Is it located down onto dowels or tabs? On 4/6/07, Greg Fiorentino wrote: > Take the opportunity to change out the old fluid. I used my mity vac > with the brake bleeder attachment. Worked fine. I also used blue DOT 4 > (German stuff) to replace the old stuff in there. It was easy to tell > when it all came out when the fluid runs blue. A liter costs about > $8-$10 from Rusty and should be enough for 2 cars. > > Greg Fiorentino > Vancouver USA > '85 300SD Turbo > '80 240D 4-speed > '79 300TD > '97 7.3L F250 HD 4WD Crew Cab > > john wrote: > > could use your vacuum pump as well... haven't figured out > how to use mine successfully for this... use a one-man bleeder > tool, but the line into a jar of clean brakefluid works just as well. :) > > john > > On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Alec Cordova wrote: > > -->Don't skip the bleeding. Use this as an excuse to get one of those > -->positive pressure blake bleeding setups, and flush all the old fluid. > --> > -->Alec > --> > -->On 4/3/07, john wrote: > -->> replacing the brake line from the caliper to the steel line shouldn't > -->> be hard, unless it's rusted on solid... soak it in something and be > -->> careful not to twist the steel line. this part should not cost much > -->> at all... this is a part that often gets replaced on 4x4s when we > -->> lift them... need a longer hose. ;) > -->> > -->> I would guess a pair of 8 or 10mm wrenches, one to hold, the other > -->> to turn, is all that will be needed. Would recommend bleeding > -->> afterwards.... > -->> or, connect the line at the top, let gravity run fluid through the > -->> line, then connect to the caliper... you might get away without bleeding > -->> the caliper. > -->> > -->> john > -->> > -->> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: > -->> > -->> > -->Discovered on Sunday why the brakes on the Estate seemed a bit soft.. > -->> > -->split rubber brake lines just before the caliper! > -->> > -->Is this difficult to replace or is it just a case of unbolting from > -->> > -->both ends and putting in the new one? Is it likely I'm going to be > -->> > -->under there for several hours splitting knuckles? > -->> > -->Thanks > -->> > -->Steve > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.26/748 - Release Date: 4/5/2007 3:33 > PM ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 07:25:00 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] W123 200T Diesel... Brakes.. (and a quick cylinder head related Q) make sure you have all the bolts. use a rubber mallet to whack the head on the sides to help break the seal it will have to the block. be careful not to crack it. check the factory manual to see what they say about getting the head off. therw will be a strong temptation to pry that rascal off... be careful where you try it so you don't gouge the block or the head... the only thing as challenging is removing one of the jeep 4.0 glued on valve covers or oil pans... :) john On Fri, 6 Apr 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: > -->Thanks folks, > --> > -->Going to pick up a brake pipe from OTTO today, I > -->have an in house > -->Brake-bleeding helper so won't be needing the > -->one-man kit. Saw the > -->blue fluid in the motor factors the other day, > -->great idea and will > -->probably use it. > --> > -->Cheers > -->Steve > -->P.S. Am removing the head off a w124 2.3 coupe at > -->the moment.. > -->everything detatched including the chain, all > -->torx + allen bolts out.. > -->but the head won't come off... any tips? Is it > -->located down onto > -->dowels or tabs? > --> > -->On 4/6/07, Greg Fiorentino > --> wrote: > -->> Take the opportunity to change out the old > -->> fluid. I used my mity vac > -->> with the brake bleeder attachment. Worked > -->> fine. I also used blue DOT 4 > -->> (German stuff) to replace the old stuff in > -->> there. It was easy to tell > -->> when it all came out when the fluid runs blue. > -->> A liter costs about > -->> $8-$10 from Rusty and should be enough for 2 > -->> cars. > -->> > -->> Greg Fiorentino > -->> Vancouver USA > -->> '85 300SD Turbo > -->> '80 240D 4-speed > -->> '79 300TD > -->> '97 7.3L F250 HD 4WD Crew Cab > -->> > -->> john wrote: > -->> > -->> could use your vacuum pump as well... haven't > -->> figured out > -->> how to use mine successfully for this... use > -->> a one-man bleeder > -->> tool, but the line into a jar of clean > -->> brakefluid works just as well. :) > -->> > -->> john > -->> > -->> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Alec Cordova wrote: > -->> > -->> -->Don't skip the bleeding. Use this as an > -->> -->excuse to get one of those > -->> -->positive pressure blake bleeding setups, and > -->> -->flush all the old fluid. > -->> --> > -->> -->Alec > -->> --> > -->> -->On 4/3/07, john > -->> -->wrote: > -->> --> > replacing the brake line from the caliper > -->> --> > to the steel line shouldn't > -->> --> > be hard, unless it's rusted on solid... > -->> --> > soak it in something and be > -->> --> > careful not to twist the steel line. > -->> --> > this part should not cost much > -->> --> > at all... this is a part that often gets > -->> --> > replaced on 4x4s when we > -->> --> > lift them... need a longer hose. ;) > -->> --> > > -->> --> > I would guess a pair of 8 or 10mm > -->> --> > wrenches, one to hold, the other > -->> --> > to turn, is all that will be needed. > -->> --> > Would recommend bleeding > -->> --> > afterwards.... > -->> --> > or, connect the line at the top, let > -->> --> > gravity run fluid through the > -->> --> > line, then connect to the caliper... you > -->> --> > might get away without bleeding > -->> --> > the caliper. > -->> --> > > -->> --> > john > -->> --> > > -->> --> > On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: > -->> --> > > -->> --> > > -->Discovered on Sunday why the brakes > -->> --> > > -->on the Estate seemed a bit soft.. > -->> --> > > -->split rubber brake lines just before > -->> --> > > -->the caliper! > -->> --> > > -->Is this difficult to replace or is > -->> --> > > -->it just a case of unbolting from > -->> --> > > -->both ends and putting in the new > -->> --> > > -->one? Is it likely I'm going to be > -->> --> > > -->under there for several hours > -->> --> > > -->splitting knuckles? > -->> --> > > -->Thanks > -->> --> > > -->Steve > -->> No virus found in this outgoing message. > -->> Checked by AVG Free Edition. > -->> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: > -->> 268.18.26/748 - Release Date: 4/5/2007 3:33 > -->> PM > -->> > --> ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #2436 **********************************