From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Thu May 10 17:50:52 2007 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Friday, May 11 2007 Volume 01 : Number 2454 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel RE: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 10 May 2007 11:56:34 +0100 From: "Stephen Rigley" Subject: Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel I'll start with checking the shocks for leaks first, then the fluid level (when I find out how to), then the Spheres I guess (next by importance/price ;-) ) Steve On 5/10/07, Marc Z wrote: > > John, I think that you are right. My '83 euro 300TD has the hydraulic > suspension system and the parts aren't cheap. > > Marc Z. > > > john wrote: > doesn't this thing have the load leveling hydraulic system? > > this is on the right side, driver's US side, not a full picture, > but shows the fluid reservoir and the pump: > http://wagoneers.com/DieselBenz/TECH/124-series/EuroHeadlights/PA150006.jpg > > john > > On Tue, 8 May 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: > > > > -->Hi folks, > --> Car is back and OH what a difference! Plenty of feel in the pedal now. > -->He also fixed a split fuel line while under there (it was one of the > -->old petrol lines, now unused, ah well.. ) > --> > -->So, 2 new questions ;-) > -->The engine I think we've identified as being from a W201 2.5TD (?), > -->what does the hose arrowed in the pic below do? I ask as it seems not > -->to have anything connected at the other end over by the turbo.. > -->http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/DSC00282.JPG > -->Would this be causing the clouds of black smoke being left behind me > -->as I get into boost (especially going up hill) ? I'm assuming this > -->should measuring pressure somehow and feeding in the correct amount of > -->fuel.. but I'm assuming its over fuelling ? > --> > -->Next Q, rear end ride height.. is it just a case of renewing the > -->shocks or springs at the back? > -->See pic here : > -->http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/DSC00299.JPG > -->and here : > -->http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/STA70328.JPG > --> > --> > -->Many thanks yet again! > -->Steve > --> > --> > -->On 5/8/07, Stephen Rigley wrote: > -->> Thats the problem John... I couldn't remove the hardline to replace it > .. > -->> Anyway, the car is in now with the specialist and should be ready this > -->> eve. > -->> > -->> Will have a look at the mounts et al later this week. > -->> Steve > -->> > -->> On 5/8/07, john wrote: > -->> > > -->> > I've found that the factory parts are usually the easiest solution, > -->> > and less stressful than trying to drive without brakes... > -->> > > -->> > as far as the clunking, it could be that rubber bushing in the > -->> > driveline, or mounts... or both... > -->> > > -->> > john > -->> > > -->> > On Tue, 8 May 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: > -->> > > -->> > > -->Last week I decided to tackle the split rear flexi hose on my > W123 > -->> > > -->250TE/TD. As the calipers are new-ish, it unscrewed easily on > that > -->> > > -->end, but the flexi hose to hard line was a different matter. No > -->> > > -->amount > -->> > > -->of cajoling/vinegar/PB blaster was going to separate them, so > out > -->> > > -->came > -->> > > -->the dremel and I made a cut just above the hardline connection. > -->> > > -->Then I tried removing the other end of the hardline with a view > to > -->> > > -->bringing the whole thing down to a brake line specialist the > -->> > > -->following > -->> > > -->day (he makes them up for about 20euros.. which is cheaper than > a > -->> > > -->flaring tool + parts.. also I'm not sure exactly how to do a > bubble > -->> > > -->flare...).. but this proved to be as difficult as the flexi to > -->> > > -->hardline joint so I left it as is and vice gripped the open end > of > -->> > > -->the > -->> > > -->hard line. This evening I drove the car down (needed a jump of > -->> > > -->course.. its never easy is it?) to the specialists using the > gears > -->> > > -->to > -->> > > -->slow down and the hand brake to stop (my nerves are still > -->> > > -->recovering). > -->> > > -->I'm hoping he can just cut back the line a little and put in an > -->> > > -->extra > -->> > > -->union to extend the line to a new flare.. fingers crossed... > -->> > > --> > -->> > > -->Next issue.. rear wipe and rear spray stopped working at the > same > -->> > > -->time, I hear clicking from the relay in the rear door and read > 12v > -->> > > -->from 3 of the 4 pins on the motor connector but none at the > sprayer > -->> > > -->motor.. any ideas? > -->> > > --> > -->> > > -->Next.. the driveline is VERY sloppy.. its a manual, when I put > in > -->> > > -->first gear the diff seems to slam as I let up the clutch (even > -->> > > -->slowly..), this also ends up in bucking if I let off the > -->> > > -->accelerator > -->> > > -->while going down hill for instance... is this most likely to be > a > -->> > > -->prop > -->> > > -->shaft bushing or something similar? > -->> > > --> > -->> > > -->Many Thanks > -->> > > -->Steve > -->> > > --> > -->> > > --> > -->> > > -->> > ----- > -->> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -->> > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > -->> > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** > -->> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -->> > > -->> > --> > --> > > ----- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2007 19:42:53 -0400 From: Edward Pomeroy Subject: Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel Stephen I am fighting with the Injection Pump on my vehicle just now. That line goes to a bellows type arrangement on the Injection pump and I think it affects the timing of the fuel injection system. The Bosch manual calls it type ADA or ALDA altitude-pressure copmpensator or absolute manifold pressure compansator, so if it is not working right, it could a source contributing to the black smoke. From what I am reading, it is measuring outside air pressure or in the case of the ALDA, the absolute manifold pressure. Maybe John or someone else on the list has more familiarity - I am just now reading the manual section that deals with this. Follow the line from that bellows type thingy back to see where it leads to and what it connects to. Edward Stephen Rigley wrote: > Hi folks, > Car is back and OH what a difference! Plenty of feel in the pedal now. > He also fixed a split fuel line while under there (it was one of the > old petrol lines, now unused, ah well.. ) > > So, 2 new questions ;-) > The engine I think we've identified as being from a W201 2.5TD (?), > what does the hose arrowed in the pic below do? I ask as it seems not > to have anything connected at the other end over by the turbo.. > http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/DSC00282.JPG > Would this be causing the clouds of black smoke being left behind me > as I get into boost (especially going up hill) ? I'm assuming this > should measuring pressure somehow and feeding in the correct amount of > fuel.. but I'm assuming its over fuelling ? > > Next Q, rear end ride height.. is it just a case of renewing the > shocks or springs at the back? > See pic here : > http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/DSC00299.JPG > and here : > http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/STA70328.JPG > > > Many thanks yet again! > Steve > > > On 5/8/07, Stephen Rigley wrote: > >> Thats the problem John... I couldn't remove the hardline to replace >> it .. >> Anyway, the car is in now with the specialist and should be ready >> this eve. >> >> Will have a look at the mounts et al later this week. >> Steve >> >> On 5/8/07, john wrote: >> > >> > I've found that the factory parts are usually the easiest solution, >> > and less stressful than trying to drive without brakes... >> > >> > as far as the clunking, it could be that rubber bushing in the >> > driveline, or mounts... or both... >> > >> > john >> > >> > On Tue, 8 May 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: >> > >> > > -->Last week I decided to tackle the split rear flexi hose on my >> W123 >> > > -->250TE/TD. As the calipers are new-ish, it unscrewed easily on >> that >> > > -->end, but the flexi hose to hard line was a different matter. >> No amount >> > > -->of cajoling/vinegar/PB blaster was going to separate them, so >> out came >> > > -->the dremel and I made a cut just above the hardline connection. >> > > -->Then I tried removing the other end of the hardline with a >> view to >> > > -->bringing the whole thing down to a brake line specialist the >> following >> > > -->day (he makes them up for about 20euros.. which is cheaper than a >> > > -->flaring tool + parts.. also I'm not sure exactly how to do a >> bubble >> > > -->flare...).. but this proved to be as difficult as the flexi to >> > > -->hardline joint so I left it as is and vice gripped the open >> end of the >> > > -->hard line. This evening I drove the car down (needed a jump of >> > > -->course.. its never easy is it?) to the specialists using the >> gears to >> > > -->slow down and the hand brake to stop (my nerves are still >> recovering). >> > > -->I'm hoping he can just cut back the line a little and put in >> an extra >> > > -->union to extend the line to a new flare.. fingers crossed... >> > > --> >> > > -->Next issue.. rear wipe and rear spray stopped working at the same >> > > -->time, I hear clicking from the relay in the rear door and read >> 12v >> > > -->from 3 of the 4 pins on the motor connector but none at the >> sprayer >> > > -->motor.. any ideas? >> > > --> >> > > -->Next.. the driveline is VERY sloppy.. its a manual, when I put in >> > > -->first gear the diff seems to slam as I let up the clutch (even >> > > -->slowly..), this also ends up in bucking if I let off the >> accelerator >> > > -->while going down hill for instance... is this most likely to >> be a prop >> > > -->shaft bushing or something similar? >> > > --> >> > > -->Many Thanks >> > > -->Steve >> > > --> >> > > --> >> > >> > ----- >> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold >> > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** >> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2007 16:43:40 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jerry Kaidor" Subject: Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel > Stephen > > I am fighting with the Injection Pump on my vehicle just now. That line > goes to a bellows type arrangement on the Injection pump and I think it > affects the timing of the fuel injection system. The Bosch manual calls > it type ADA or ALDA altitude-pressure copmpensator or absolute manifold > pressure compansator, so if it is not working right, it could a source > contributing to the black smoke. From what I am reading, it is measuring > outside air pressure or in the case of the ALDA, the absolute manifold > pressure. > *** Absolutely. the ALDA enriches or leans the mixture to match the intake air pressure. If there is a turbo, this pressue may be higher than ambient. There's a screw with a locknut on top. Turn clockwise to enrich, counterclockwise to lean. DON"T TURN IT MUCH, it's VERY sensitive. In my case, a quarter turn CW made the difference between a turtle and a hare. And - if you turn it - the ALDA might break. Or it might not. - Jerry Kaidor > Maybe John or someone else on the list has more familiarity - I am just > now reading the manual section that deals with this. > > Follow the line from that bellows type thingy back to see where it leads > to and what it connects to. > > Edward > > > Stephen Rigley wrote: > >> Hi folks, >> Car is back and OH what a difference! Plenty of feel in the pedal now. >> He also fixed a split fuel line while under there (it was one of the >> old petrol lines, now unused, ah well.. ) >> >> So, 2 new questions ;-) >> The engine I think we've identified as being from a W201 2.5TD (?), >> what does the hose arrowed in the pic below do? I ask as it seems not >> to have anything connected at the other end over by the turbo.. >> http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/DSC00282.JPG >> Would this be causing the clouds of black smoke being left behind me >> as I get into boost (especially going up hill) ? I'm assuming this >> should measuring pressure somehow and feeding in the correct amount of >> fuel.. but I'm assuming its over fuelling ? >> >> Next Q, rear end ride height.. is it just a case of renewing the >> shocks or springs at the back? >> See pic here : >> http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/DSC00299.JPG >> and here : >> http://www.mx5ireland.com/members/srigley/Merc/85estate/STA70328.JPG >> >> >> Many thanks yet again! >> Steve >> >> >> On 5/8/07, Stephen Rigley wrote: >> >>> Thats the problem John... I couldn't remove the hardline to replace >>> it .. >>> Anyway, the car is in now with the specialist and should be ready >>> this eve. >>> >>> Will have a look at the mounts et al later this week. >>> Steve >>> >>> On 5/8/07, john wrote: >>> > >>> > I've found that the factory parts are usually the easiest solution, >>> > and less stressful than trying to drive without brakes... >>> > >>> > as far as the clunking, it could be that rubber bushing in the >>> > driveline, or mounts... or both... >>> > >>> > john >>> > >>> > On Tue, 8 May 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: >>> > >>> > > -->Last week I decided to tackle the split rear flexi hose on my >>> W123 >>> > > -->250TE/TD. As the calipers are new-ish, it unscrewed easily on >>> that >>> > > -->end, but the flexi hose to hard line was a different matter. >>> No amount >>> > > -->of cajoling/vinegar/PB blaster was going to separate them, so >>> out came >>> > > -->the dremel and I made a cut just above the hardline connection. >>> > > -->Then I tried removing the other end of the hardline with a >>> view to >>> > > -->bringing the whole thing down to a brake line specialist the >>> following >>> > > -->day (he makes them up for about 20euros.. which is cheaper than >>> a >>> > > -->flaring tool + parts.. also I'm not sure exactly how to do a >>> bubble >>> > > -->flare...).. but this proved to be as difficult as the flexi to >>> > > -->hardline joint so I left it as is and vice gripped the open >>> end of the >>> > > -->hard line. This evening I drove the car down (needed a jump of >>> > > -->course.. its never easy is it?) to the specialists using the >>> gears to >>> > > -->slow down and the hand brake to stop (my nerves are still >>> recovering). >>> > > -->I'm hoping he can just cut back the line a little and put in >>> an extra >>> > > -->union to extend the line to a new flare.. fingers crossed... >>> > > --> >>> > > -->Next issue.. rear wipe and rear spray stopped working at the >>> same >>> > > -->time, I hear clicking from the relay in the rear door and read >>> 12v >>> > > -->from 3 of the 4 pins on the motor connector but none at the >>> sprayer >>> > > -->motor.. any ideas? >>> > > --> >>> > > -->Next.. the driveline is VERY sloppy.. its a manual, when I put >>> in >>> > > -->first gear the diff seems to slam as I let up the clutch (even >>> > > -->slowly..), this also ends up in bucking if I let off the >>> accelerator >>> > > -->while going down hill for instance... is this most likely to >>> be a prop >>> > > -->shaft bushing or something similar? >>> > > --> >>> > > -->Many Thanks >>> > > -->Steve >>> > > --> >>> > > --> >>> > >>> > ----- >>> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >>> > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold >>> > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** >>> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2007 17:25:01 -0700 From: Bruce Caruthers Subject: Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel So, how much does an adjustment to the ALDA affect mileage? Thanks! -bkc Lynnwood, WA '76 MB 240D [W115.117/616.916] '93 MB 300D 2.5 Turbo [W124.128/602.962] (replaces ML) '92 Toyota Celica GT (wife's old car) '00 MB ML320 [W163.154/M112.942] (to be sold, hopefully) On Thu May 10, 2007, Jerry Kaidor wrote: > > Stephen > > > > I am fighting with the Injection Pump on my vehicle just now. That line > > goes to a bellows type arrangement on the Injection pump and I think it > > affects the timing of the fuel injection system. The Bosch manual calls > > it type ADA or ALDA altitude-pressure copmpensator or absolute manifold > > pressure compansator, so if it is not working right, it could a source > > contributing to the black smoke. From what I am reading, it is measuring > > outside air pressure or in the case of the ALDA, the absolute manifold > > pressure. > > > > *** Absolutely. the ALDA enriches or leans the mixture to match the > intake air pressure. If there is a turbo, this pressue may be higher > than ambient. There's a screw with a locknut on top. Turn clockwise to > enrich, counterclockwise to lean. DON"T TURN IT MUCH, it's VERY sensitive. > In my case, a quarter turn CW made the difference between a turtle and a > hare. And - if you turn it - the ALDA might break. Or it might not. > > - Jerry Kaidor ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2007 19:38:59 -0500 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel On a non-computerized (pre-1986) turbodiesel, it's hard to say. With more available power, you'll probably drive differently, and that can have as much or more effect on economy as the ALDA adjustment. If you're frequently getting visible amounts of black exhaust, that's wasted fuel, but in most cases, the ALDA is not feeding enough extra fuel to take full advantage of the turbo. I'm pretty sure you can't do the same thing on your 93 model. Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 89 300CE, 221K > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Bruce Caruthers > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 7:25 PM > To: dieselbenz > Subject: Re: [db] Monday night adventures... w123 diesel > > > So, how much does an adjustment to the ALDA affect > mileage? > > Thanks! > -bkc > Lynnwood, WA > '76 MB 240D [W115.117/616.916] > '93 MB 300D 2.5 Turbo [W124.128/602.962] (replaces ML) > '92 Toyota Celica GT (wife's old car) > '00 MB ML320 [W163.154/M112.942] (to be sold, hopefully) > > > On Thu May 10, 2007, Jerry Kaidor wrote: > > > Stephen > > > > > > I am fighting with the Injection Pump on my vehicle just now. > That line > > > goes to a bellows type arrangement on the Injection pump and > I think it > > > affects the timing of the fuel injection system. The Bosch > manual calls > > > it type ADA or ALDA altitude-pressure copmpensator or > absolute manifold > > > pressure compansator, so if it is not working right, it could a source > > > contributing to the black smoke. From what I am reading, it > is measuring > > > outside air pressure or in the case of the ALDA, the absolute manifold > > > pressure. > > > > > > > *** Absolutely. the ALDA enriches or leans the mixture to match the > > intake air pressure. If there is a turbo, this pressue may be higher > > than ambient. There's a screw with a locknut on top. Turn clockwise to > > enrich, counterclockwise to lean. DON"T TURN IT MUCH, it's > VERY sensitive. > > In my case, a quarter turn CW made the difference between a turtle and a > > hare. And - if you turn it - the ALDA might break. Or it might not. > > > > - Jerry Kaidor ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #2454 **********************************