From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sun Oct 21 13:32:01 2007 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Sunday, October 21 2007 Volume 01 : Number 2564 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] W123 TD rear trailing arm Re: [db] W123 TD rear trailing arm Re: [db] W123 TD rear trailing arm Re: [db] 1996 f/s in Portland, OR $ 2500.00 Re: [db] 1996 f/s in Portland, OR $ 2500.00 Re: [db] 1996 f/s in Portland, OR $ 2500.00 [db] w123 oil pan blues Re: [db] w123 oil pan blues Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 20:24:35 +0100 From: "Stephen Rigley" Subject: Re: [db] W123 TD rear trailing arm I stuck an axle stand under the diff this evening, then put a jack under the subframe and lifted it enough to remove the front mount. Was then able to drop it down enough to get at the 24mm bolt holding the arm to the subframe.. loosened it a bit, then tightened it as tight as I dared. Then reassembled everything.. except.. the BIG bolt holding the subframe mount had damage to the first couple of threads... ugghhh... so I cursed at it for a bit, it eventually saw the error of its ways and obliged by bolting back in. Went for a test drive (car is now back starting ok.. ?!?!?) and my wayward rear end is now straight and true!! Fab! I might treat it to a set of new bilsteins, I found a Polish website selling them for 48euro! Steve On 10/19/07, john wrote: > I've had some experience with this sort of problem with > Jeeps... I'm not sure this will be the correct action > on a Mercedes though... > > two ways you can fix a hole that has become elongated because > of a loose bolt/bushing.... > > 1) you can remove the arm and weld up material to replace the > worn material... this could cause metal embrittlement... not > recommended... > > 2) you can fabricate a plate that goes over the hole and either > weld it in or bolt it in... > > > OR... THE BEST SOLUTION... replace the arm with a new one. :) > > then there is always duct tape and bailing wire... > > fortunately (for you guys) I don't have pictures of some of the > fixes I've done on old Jeeps... :) > > ----- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > On Fri, 19 Oct 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: > > # One of the mounting arms on my driver's side rear trailing arm seems > # loose.. the bushing was replaced a year ago by the previous owner, but > # it seems like the hole for the bolt is too big or something.. I can > # see movement if I push up on it with my hand. > # Is it a case of dropping the subframe to get at this 24mm bolt? Its > # quite tight in near the body.. > # > # Cheers > # Steve > # ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 17:51:39 -0400 From: Edward Pomeroy Subject: Re: [db] W123 TD rear trailing arm OK - now my 2c worth. I had this odd starting issue with my 64 jaguar E, it turned out to be that somwhere in its POlife, the ground strap that linked the body to the engine went missing. All the current to the starter was trying to find paths through whatever bolts or metal was making contact with the engine. The symptoms were - sometimes started fine, sometimes barely cranked (it was a very high compression engine for a gasser and tight as I had just rebuilt the sucker). I would spend some time tracing every ground connection from the battery back to the engine and starter. If they are all there, take them apart and clean the contact faces then re-assembe. Might cure a lot of the ills with that starter. Edward Stephen Rigley wrote: >I stuck an axle stand under the diff this evening, then put a jack >under the subframe and lifted it enough to remove the front mount. Was >then able to drop it down enough to get at the 24mm bolt holding the >arm to the subframe.. loosened it a bit, then tightened it as tight as >I dared. Then reassembled everything.. except.. the BIG bolt holding >the subframe mount had damage to the first couple of threads... >ugghhh... so I cursed at it for a bit, it eventually saw the error of >its ways and obliged by bolting back in. >Went for a test drive (car is now back starting ok.. ?!?!?) and my >wayward rear end is now straight and true!! Fab! >I might treat it to a set of new bilsteins, I found a Polish website >selling them for 48euro! >Steve > >On 10/19/07, john wrote: > > >>I've had some experience with this sort of problem with >>Jeeps... I'm not sure this will be the correct action >>on a Mercedes though... >> >>two ways you can fix a hole that has become elongated because >>of a loose bolt/bushing.... >> >>1) you can remove the arm and weld up material to replace the >>worn material... this could cause metal embrittlement... not >>recommended... >> >>2) you can fabricate a plate that goes over the hole and either >>weld it in or bolt it in... >> >> >>OR... THE BEST SOLUTION... replace the arm with a new one. :) >> >>then there is always duct tape and bailing wire... >> >>fortunately (for you guys) I don't have pictures of some of the >>fixes I've done on old Jeeps... :) >> >> ----- >>---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold >> http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** >>---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >>On Fri, 19 Oct 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: >> >> # One of the mounting arms on my driver's side rear trailing arm seems >> # loose.. the bushing was replaced a year ago by the previous owner, but >> # it seems like the hole for the bolt is too big or something.. I can >> # see movement if I push up on it with my hand. >> # Is it a case of dropping the subframe to get at this 24mm bolt? Its >> # quite tight in near the body.. >> # >> # Cheers >> # Steve >> # ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 18:06:00 -0400 From: Subject: Re: [db] W123 TD rear trailing arm Come to think of it, someone else had some fireworks lately that sounded more like a bad ground then the starter thing. Based on his description, it sounds more like a failing starter than a bad ground, but it's always a good idea to check such things. J - -----Original Message----- From: Edward Pomeroy Subj: Re: [db] W123 TD rear trailing arm Date: Sat Oct 20, 2007 5:51 pm Size: 2K To: Stephen Rigley cc: john ; diesel-benz list OK - now my 2c worth. I had this odd starting issue with my 64 jaguar E, it turned out to be that somwhere in its POlife, the ground strap that linked the body to the engine went missing. All the current to the starter was trying to find paths through whatever bolts or metal was making contact with the engine. The symptoms were - sometimes started fine, sometimes barely cranked (it was a very high compression engine for a gasser and tight as I had just rebuilt the sucker). I would spend some time tracing every ground connection from the battery back to the engine and starter. If they are all there, take them apart and clean the contact faces then re-assembe. Might cure a lot of the ills with that starter. Edward Stephen Rigley wrote: >I stuck an axle stand under the diff this evening, then put a jack >under the subframe and lifted it enough to remove the front mount. Was >then able to drop it down enough to get at the 24mm bolt holding the >arm to the subframe.. loosened it a bit, then tightened it as tight as >I dared. Then reassembled everything.. except.. the BIG bolt holding >the subframe mount had damage to the first couple of threads... >ugghhh... so I cursed at it for a bit, it eventually saw the error of >its ways and obliged by bolting back in. >Went for a test drive (car is now back starting ok.. ?!?!?) and my >wayward rear end is now straight and true!! Fab! >I might treat it to a set of new bilsteins, I found a Polish website >selling them for 48euro! >Steve > >On 10/19/07, john wrote: > > >>I've had some experience with this sort of problem with >>Jeeps... I'm not sure this will be the correct action >>on a Mercedes though... >> >>two ways you can fix a hole that has become elongated because >>of a loose bolt/bushing.... >> >>1) you can remove the arm and weld up material to replace the >>worn material... this could cause metal embrittlement... not >>recommended... >> >>2) you can fabricate a plate that goes over the hole and either >>weld it in or bolt it in... >> >> >>OR... THE BEST SOLUTION... replace the arm with a new one. :) >> >>then there is always duct tape and bailing wire... >> >>fortunately (for you guys) I don't have pictures of some of the >>fixes I've done on old Jeeps... :) >> >> ----- >>---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold >> http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** >>---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >>On Fri, 19 Oct 2007, Stephen Rigley wrote: >> >> # One of the mounting arms on my driver's side rear trailing arm seems >> # loose.. the bushing was replaced a year ago by the previous owner, but >> # it seems like the hole for the bolt is too big or something.. I can >> # see movement if I push up on it with my hand. >> # Is it a case of dropping the subframe to get at this 24mm bolt? Its >> # quite tight in near the body.. >> # >> # Cheers >> # Steve >> # ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 22:27:46 -0400 From: "J.B. Hebert" Subject: Re: [db] 1996 f/s in Portland, OR $ 2500.00 The 210 chassis cars had numerous problems, including the front spring towers rusting off and failing at the spotwelds, plus multitudes of electrical gremlins that make a 124 look like child's play. If you have to have one, at least hold out for the '98 or '99 model that has a turbo making 177 HP and 244 lb. ft. J.B. At 05:09 PM 10/19/2007, you wrote: >sounds like trouble with a capital T. > >john > > ----- >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >On Fri, 19 Oct 2007, Kevin wrote: > > # 96 is a W210, if diesel, it's a non-turbo 606. Think JB's 95 E300D engine. > # > # On Fri, Oct 19, 2007 at 01:59:23PM -0700, john wrote: > # > wow... that looks like a good deal... > # > > # > is a '96 one of the "ok" years? is this a 124? > # > > # > dang, have class this weekend... ;) > # > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.1/1079 - Release Date: >10/19/2007 5:10 AM J.B. Hebert - ---------------------------------------------- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ - -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.3/1081 - Release Date: 10/19/2007 5:41 PM ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 21:04:16 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] 1996 f/s in Portland, OR $ 2500.00 that is very good advice... just got back from appliance shopping... almost bought a new washer/dryer... but I couldn't get paste the part where I was going to pay over $3,000 for something expected to last 7 years, and have to buy a maintenance contract as well... nuts... heading to craigslist... for a used one... ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sat, 20 Oct 2007, J.B. Hebert wrote: # The 210 chassis cars had numerous problems, including the front spring towers # rusting off and failing at the spotwelds, plus multitudes of electrical # gremlins that make a 124 look like child's play. If you have to have one, at # least hold out for the '98 or '99 model that has a turbo making 177 HP and # 244 lb. ft. # # J.B. # # At 05:09 PM 10/19/2007, you wrote: # # >sounds like trouble with a capital T. # > # >john # > # > ----- # >---------------------------------------------------------------------- # > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** # >---------------------------------------------------------------------- # > # >On Fri, 19 Oct 2007, Kevin wrote: # > # > # 96 is a W210, if diesel, it's a non-turbo 606. Think JB's 95 E300D # > # engine. # > # # > # On Fri, Oct 19, 2007 at 01:59:23PM -0700, john wrote: # > # > wow... that looks like a good deal... # > # > # > # > is a '96 one of the "ok" years? is this a 124? # > # > # > # > dang, have class this weekend... ;) # > # # > # > # > # >-- # >No virus found in this incoming message. # >Checked by AVG Free Edition. # >Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.1/1079 - Release Date: 10/19/2007 # >5:10 AM # # J.B. Hebert # # ---------------------------------------------- # Current Vehicles: # # '76 Ford Bronco # '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 # '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe # '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) # '93 GMC Sierra 2500 # '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ # # ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 07:24:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Jerome Kaidor Subject: Re: [db] 1996 f/s in Portland, OR $ 2500.00 john wrote: > > that is very good advice... just got back from appliance shopping... > almost bought a new washer/dryer... but I couldn't get paste the part > where I was going to pay over $3,000 for something expected to last > 7 years, and have to buy a maintenance contract as well... nuts... **** Ouch. Three Large for one pair of machines? Guess I'm still living in the past when they cost $500. I'm going to be making a large buy of appliances early next year. Six washers and six driers. With card readers and also a station for my manager to add value. Current quote is $18K plus installation. Would have been 11K with ordinary coin mechs. But then I'd have to go to Fresno once a month to empty the machines, and probably once in a while would find a machine crowbarred open to get the quarters.... - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry-at-tr2.com ) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 12:22:50 -0700 From: "Paul Masterson" Subject: [db] w123 oil pan blues I am off to do the THIRD repair of an oil pan on a w123 car in the last year. It will be the second on this car in that span. Is it the crappy roads in the industrial area of south seattle? I can't believe I am the only one with this issue, since the parts guy on Aurora does keep them in stock, but this is getting ridiculous! I came out of work yesterday, and had a huge oil slick coming out of the hole in the rear edge of the sump pan on my 240d. This is the same place that the last pan was gouged, and the same place that my girlfriend's 300d caught a hole. Argh! I guess some of the blame could go to my weak front struts, but her car has two year old replacements, so I feel the pan just sits too low! Any one else have this issue? Paul ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 13:31:43 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] w123 oil pan blues my son had this problem.... ...but I think the loose nut behind the wheel was more of the issue... http://www.wagoneers.com/DieselBenz/CARS/Marks-82-300D/the-last-day/ :) you might consider having a skid plate fabricated... john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 21 Oct 2007, Paul Masterson wrote: # I am off to do the THIRD repair of an oil pan on a w123 car in the last year. # It will be the second on this car in that span. Is it the crappy roads in the # industrial area of south seattle? I can't believe I am the only one with this # issue, since the parts guy on Aurora does keep them in stock, but this is # getting ridiculous! I came out of work yesterday, and had a huge oil slick # coming out of the hole in the rear edge of the sump pan on my 240d. This is # the same place that the last pan was gouged, and the same place that my # girlfriend's 300d caught a hole. # # Argh! # # I guess some of the blame could go to my weak front struts, but her car has # two year old replacements, so I feel the pan just sits too low! # # # Any one else have this issue? # # Paul # ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #2564 **********************************