From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Sun Dec 2 22:19:08 2007 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Monday, December 3 2007 Volume 01 : Number 2605 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: [db] Dash / Switch lights [db] Re: fsj: snow, ain't it Grand? Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights [db] RE: fsj: snow, ain't it Grand? Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights [db] road trip [db] popcorn event! Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 21:26:37 -0500 From: Marc Z Subject: [db] Dash / Switch lights Hello everyone, You may remember me asking about the problem with the instrument cluster and switch illumination. Well, today, I finally had time to dive deeper into it. This is on my '83 300D Turbo. I replaced the rheostat today and that didn't help. So, I checked the light switch and it was sending the power. I checked the plug attaching to the instrument cluster, pin number 11, and it had power. I then took apart the instrument cluster, a first for me, and found that the circuit board solder pathway between the incoming power and the rheostat connection was broken. John, I have a picture of this if you'd like for me to send it. The question now is how to fix it. There are 2 resistors in this solder line that are for something else. I'm wondering if I can solder a jumper from the incoming pin over to the rheostat pin? It is interesting to note that I have one of these boards with the gauges that I bought from someone a few years ago. I checked it out and it has the same problem on a different solder path. Anyway, what do you guys think? Marc Z in NC ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 18:58:58 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] Re: fsj: snow, ain't it Grand? 50 miles, 3 hrs... hmmm... sounds like Seattle traffic. ;) pretty cool, no pun intended... I've seen some snow like that down by Crater Lake, Oregon, and over at Glacier in Montanta, really cool to see a wall of snow that high alongside the road. here's the maps.google.doc info: Lodge Bay, NL Canada Drive: 79.8 km . about 3 hours 10 mins 1. Head south on HWY-510/Trans Labrador Hwy 78.0 km 3 hours 8 mins 2. Sharp left 1.6 km 2 mins 3. Turn left 0.1 km To: Red Bay, NL Canada ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- there's a solution for every problem; problem is can we afford the solution? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 2 Dec 2007, Stephen Cahill wrote: # Hello John # That is not really snow # http://www.thedieselgypsy.com/Labrador%20Snow.htm # Have a peek, CAUTION not for the faint of heart. # # Stephen # # On Dec 2, 2007 11:30 AM, john wrote: # > grand as in WJ Grand Cherokee? :) # > http://wagoneers.com/fotos/2007/12-Dec-01-snow/ALL.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 19:12:18 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights easy fix. - - get a pencil tip soldering iron with a 700 degree tip... - - get some rosin core solder 60/40... - - get a small bit of sand paper (400-600 grit) - - clean up the areas on either side of the crack... (don't get too crazy) - - heat up the iron, tin the tip by touching the solder to the tip... shake it off... (recommend doing this outside. ;) - - take a one very small strand of copper wire... lay it across the crack (cut a short section ouf of some stranded copper wire)... - - take the iron, place it on the circuit trace and the wire, put the solder next to the wire and trace, let the solder flow onto the trace and wire BRIEFLY... NOTE: DO NOT LEAVE THE IRON ON THE TRACE VERY LONG - - now take the solder and iron and solder the wire on the other side allowing a bridge of solder across the cracked trace and along the wire. - -should be all you need to do. I've made repairs like this countless times on everything from television sets to top secret communication systems... basic electronics repair. john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- there's a solution for every problem; problem is can we afford the solution? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 2 Dec 2007, Marc Z wrote: # Hello everyone, # # You may remember me asking about the problem with the instrument cluster and # switch illumination. Well, today, I finally had time to dive deeper into it. # This is on my '83 300D Turbo. I replaced the rheostat today and that didn't # help. So, I checked the light switch and it was sending the power. I checked # the plug attaching to the instrument cluster, pin number 11, and it had # power. I then took apart the instrument cluster, a first for me, and found # that the circuit board solder pathway between the incoming power and the # rheostat connection was broken. # # John, I have a picture of this if you'd like for me to send it. The # question now is how to fix it. There are 2 resistors in this solder line # that are for something else. I'm wondering if I can solder a jumper from the # incoming pin over to the rheostat pin? It is interesting to note that I have # one of these boards with the gauges that I bought from someone a few years # ago. I checked it out and it has the same problem on a different solder path. # # Anyway, what do you guys think? # Marc Z in NC # ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 19:16:48 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights one other thing... while you're in there with the iron, reflow ALL of the solder connections, especially around any contacts that come up through the board... you'll watch the solder melt into the holes... be careful of the heat, do not leave it on anything too long as it will over heat parts and could cause the solder traces to lift off the board. That's why I like the 700 degree pencil tip. It's hot enough to melt the solder quickly and cause it to flow, but not hot enough to scorch the board... using a cooler tip means you leave the iron on the stuff longer causing more heat soak. I can't remember the exact melting point of 60/40 solder, 636 deg F comes to mind, not even sure where I'd have my notes for such info anymore. :) john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- there's a solution for every problem; problem is can we afford the solution? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 2 Dec 2007, john wrote: # easy fix. # # - get a pencil tip soldering iron with a 700 degree tip... # - get some rosin core solder 60/40... # # - get a small bit of sand paper (400-600 grit) # # - clean up the areas on either side of the crack... (don't get too crazy) # # - heat up the iron, tin the tip by touching the solder to the # tip... shake it off... (recommend doing this outside. ;) # # - take a one very small strand of copper wire... lay it across the crack # (cut a short section ouf of some stranded copper wire)... # # - take the iron, place it on the circuit trace and the wire, # put the solder next to the wire and trace, let the # solder flow onto the trace and wire BRIEFLY... # # NOTE: DO NOT LEAVE THE IRON ON THE TRACE VERY LONG # # - now take the solder and iron and solder the wire on the other side # allowing a bridge of solder across the cracked trace and along # the wire. # # -should be all you need to do. # # I've made repairs like this countless times on everything from television # sets to top secret communication systems... basic electronics repair. # # john # # # ----- # ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** # ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # there's a solution for every problem; # problem is can we afford the solution? # ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # # # On Sun, 2 Dec 2007, Marc Z wrote: # # # Hello everyone, # # # # You may remember me asking about the problem with the instrument cluster and # # switch illumination. Well, today, I finally had time to dive deeper into it. # # This is on my '83 300D Turbo. I replaced the rheostat today and that didn't # # help. So, I checked the light switch and it was sending the power. I checked # # the plug attaching to the instrument cluster, pin number 11, and it had # # power. I then took apart the instrument cluster, a first for me, and found # # that the circuit board solder pathway between the incoming power and the # # rheostat connection was broken. # # # # John, I have a picture of this if you'd like for me to send it. The # # question now is how to fix it. There are 2 resistors in this solder line # # that are for something else. I'm wondering if I can solder a jumper from the # # incoming pin over to the rheostat pin? It is interesting to note that I have # # one of these boards with the gauges that I bought from someone a few years # # ago. I checked it out and it has the same problem on a different solder path. # # # # Anyway, what do you guys think? # # Marc Z in NC # # # ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 19:44:46 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] RE: fsj: snow, ain't it Grand? On Sun, 2 Dec 2007, Jim Blair wrote: # We have La Nina for our winters # http://www.weathernotebook.org/transcripts/1999/08/09.html I have pictures of that area from this summer: http://wagoneers.com/fotos/2007/09-Sep-13-MtBaker-Shuksan-WA/ALL.html ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- there's a solution for every problem; problem is can we afford the solution? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 22:43:41 -0500 From: Marc Z Subject: Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights Hi John, Thanks for the details. The place where the crack is has raised off of the board ( about 1/4 inch in length). But, it seems that your technique will work well regardless. I'll check Radio Shack on the soldering iron as I'm not sure what I have. I do have 2 direct plug types and one with a trigger but I do not know their temp. working range. Thanks Marc Z. john wrote: > easy fix. > > - get a pencil tip soldering iron with a 700 degree tip... > - get some rosin core solder 60/40... > > - get a small bit of sand paper (400-600 grit) > > - clean up the areas on either side of the crack... (don't get too crazy) > > - heat up the iron, tin the tip by touching the solder to the > tip... shake it off... (recommend doing this outside. ;) > > - take a one very small strand of copper wire... lay it across the crack > (cut a short section ouf of some stranded copper wire)... > > - take the iron, place it on the circuit trace and the wire, > put the solder next to the wire and trace, let the > solder flow onto the trace and wire BRIEFLY... > > NOTE: DO NOT LEAVE THE IRON ON THE TRACE VERY LONG > > - now take the solder and iron and solder the wire on the other side > allowing a bridge of solder across the cracked trace and along > the wire. > > -should be all you need to do. > > I've made repairs like this countless times on everything from television > sets to top secret communication systems... basic electronics repair. > > john > > > ----- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > there's a solution for every problem; > problem is can we afford the solution? > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 19:49:22 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Dash / Switch lights if the tip will melt the 60/40 ROSIN core solder quickly, it'll be fine. a $7.95 radio shack pencil iron will work fine... not sure if that's the current price or not, but it doesn't have to be fancy at all... if you have a longer run then you might want to add a few more strands of wire across the gap, being very careful not to short anything out... in fact, when you're done run a screwdriver or knife along the edges of that trace so there are not cat whiskers reaching out to test your fuses. :) john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- there's a solution for every problem; problem is can we afford the solution? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 2 Dec 2007, Marc Z wrote: # Hi John, # # Thanks for the details. The place where the crack is has raised off of the # board ( about 1/4 inch in length). But, it seems that your technique will # work well regardless. I'll check Radio Shack on the soldering iron as I'm # not sure what I have. I do have 2 direct plug types and one with a trigger # but I do not know their temp. working range. # # Thanks Marc Z. # # john wrote: # > easy fix. # > # > - get a pencil tip soldering iron with a 700 degree tip... - get some rosin # > core solder 60/40... # > # > - get a small bit of sand paper (400-600 grit) # > # > - clean up the areas on either side of the crack... (don't get too crazy) # > # > - heat up the iron, tin the tip by touching the solder to the # > tip... shake it off... (recommend doing this outside. ;) # > # > - take a one very small strand of copper wire... lay it across the crack # > (cut a short section ouf of some stranded copper wire)... # > # > - take the iron, place it on the circuit trace and the wire, # > put the solder next to the wire and trace, let the solder flow onto the # > trace and wire BRIEFLY... # > # > NOTE: DO NOT LEAVE THE IRON ON THE TRACE VERY LONG # > # > - now take the solder and iron and solder the wire on the other side # > allowing a bridge of solder across the cracked trace and along # > the wire. # > # > -should be all you need to do. # > # > I've made repairs like this countless times on everything from television # > sets to top secret communication systems... basic electronics repair. # > # > john # > # > # > ----- # > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # > http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** # > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # > there's a solution for every problem; # > problem is can we afford the solution? # > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # > # > # > # > # # ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 20:42:22 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] road trip thinking about driving from Seattle down to Tucson over Christmas to visit our son... just a good excuse for a road trip... he's getting out of the air force and coming home in february anyway... the QUESTION is this: If we take I-5 down through Southern Oregon and into Northern CA, main concern is between Roseburg, OR and Redding, CA... WILL WE RUN INTO ICE/SNOW? alternate option is to run over to the coast and take 101 down, not sure where to cut over and back, and it'll add a lot of time to the trip. will probably be taking the '91 300d as it gets 35+ on the road... the other option is to go down to AZ via Boise, Salt Lake City and down that way, but I suspect we'd hit a lot more snow and ice that way... thoughts? (other than why not fly?) :) john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- there's a solution for every problem; problem is can we afford the solution? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 22:18:50 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: [db] popcorn event! I was checking something else and noticed that ebay had a free car listing on Dec 1 & 2... So, I just listed two vehicles at 10pm seattle time, cut off is at midnight pacific time. :) Tired of messing around with some of these loose ends... and unfinished projects. Was thinking about taking these two vehicles and making one... but why? why should I go through all that work? so I figured what the heck, I'll try to sell the '89 GW and the '67 J100 rather than restore them or merge 'em. :) this is the '67 J100 - opens at $3,000. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160187117440 this is the '89 Grand Wagoneer - opens at $4,500 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160187113893 prices are purposely on the higher side... not so much with the panel, that price is about right, but on the '89 I put it a little bit higher because I'm not completely done with it and I don't have the title yet. If I get a bid I'll be out there putting the finishing touches on it and over at the previous owner's house with the paperwork. Nothing like an ebay sale to motivate you to get something done. :) If anyone on this list is interested in either be happy to talk... and provide more pictures. We'll see how this works out.. :) I doubt I'll get bids on either, which is just fine with me... I need to check my ebay inbox more often, I keep missing all these free listing offerings. :) john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- there's a solution for every problem; problem is can we afford the solution? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #2605 **********************************