From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Mon Jun 2 15:21:50 2008 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Monday, June 2 2008 Volume 01 : Number 2774 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] Need help 124 again Re: [db] Need help 124 again RE: [db] Need help 124 again [db] group photo [db] engine mounts RE: [db] Need help 124 again RE: [db] Need help 124 again RE: [db] Need help 124 again [db] Purchase of 1991 300D Re: [db] Purchase of 1991 300D Re: [db] Purchase of 1991 300D Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 19:26:11 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Need help 124 again I just had hoses made like this for my a/c on Omega... cost me $309 for the pair, but they made custom fittings so I could revert back to a Jeep a/c compressor if the GM compressor doesn't work out... any hydraulic or industrial hose place should be able to do it... you'll have trouble finding a shop willing to do it if the hoses are aluminum... john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://wagoneers.com john's 6.2L GW: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/ SAVE FUEL use AMSOIL Synthethics: http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 1 Jun 2008, Mike Frank wrote: # My oil cooler is leaking. I did a good job of tracking down a good spare for # cheap, now I need to install it. The problem is that the lines are totally # frozen. The connectors are maybe 12mm steel lines, with huge flare nuts. I # don't mind sacrificing the cooler, since it's perforated. But how to save the # lines? when I've had this problem with brakes, I've spliced in a new length # of brake line with a flare coupler. But I don't know how to make a flare in # such a large line. Has anyone had this problem, and is there a solution, # short of replacing the ($400) hoses? Here's a photo of the offending part: # # http://tinyurl.com/6f32ax # # Imagine the connectors at the bottom of the photo as a ball of rust. I have # no idea how something that's drenched in oil could get so corroded. # # Mike Frank # # ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 03:03:05 GMT From: "jasonbassett-at-juno.com" Subject: Re: [db] Need help 124 again I doubt that the flares will self-destruct when you take them apart. Just spray some WD-40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or whichever penetrant you prefer on them on the line side (all over them, for that matter) and they should come apart. What you might run into is that the flares might be stuck to the nuts initially, in which case you'll have to wiggle things until they pop loose. Otherwise you'll twist the lines in two. But it should be possible to undo them. If the nuts are REALLY stuck to the flares, you might have better luck undoing the lines on the other end so the lines can turn with the nuts until you get the nuts off far enough to nudge the flares loose. I've worked on a lot of northern cars, and the penetrant companies are kept in business by the "salt belt." You may be best to spray it thoroughly with penetrant, wait a few hours, spray it again, wait some more, spray it again and THEN try to take it apart. (Ex: Spray last thing one day, first thing the next morning, then right before you work on it that night.) J - -- Mike Frank wrote: My oil cooler is leaking. I did a good job of tracking down a good spare for cheap, now I need to install it. The problem is that the lines are totally frozen. The connectors are maybe 12mm steel lines, with huge flare nuts. I don't mind sacrificing the cooler, since it's perforated. But how to save the lines? when I've had this problem with brakes, I've spliced in a new length of brake line with a flare coupler. But I don't know how to make a flare in such a large line. Has anyone had this problem, and is there a solution, short of replacing the ($400) hoses? Here's a photo of the offending part: http://tinyurl.com/6f32ax Imagine the connectors at the bottom of the photo as a ball of rust. I have no idea how something that's drenched in oil could get so corroded. Mike Frank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 07:28:58 -0500 From: "Potter, Tom E" Subject: RE: [db] Need help 124 again I recently replaced the oil cooler lines on my '85 300D Turbodiesel. The lower line was leaking, so I decided to replace both of them as long as I was in there. I had no trouble with the connections; however, they were a PITA to get out. Since they were so difficult to remove, I decided to replace them with mostly flexible lines. The originals have about 1 foot of flexible line on each line. I took them to a hydraulic shop here in Houston, and they made me two lines for $72. They just cut the ends off the old lines and brazed a fitting on each one to which they connected the flex hose. They were much easier to install, and they work great. Tom Potter - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Mike Frank Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:38 PM To: diesel-benz list Subject: [db] Need help 124 again My oil cooler is leaking. I did a good job of tracking down a good spare for cheap, now I need to install it. The problem is that the lines are totally frozen. The connectors are maybe 12mm steel lines, with huge flare nuts. I don't mind sacrificing the cooler, since it's perforated. But how to save the lines? when I've had this problem with brakes, I've spliced in a new length of brake line with a flare coupler. But I don't know how to make a flare in such a large line. Has anyone had this problem, and is there a solution, short of replacing the ($400) hoses? Here's a photo of the offending part: http://tinyurl.com/6f32ax Imagine the connectors at the bottom of the photo as a ball of rust. I have no idea how something that's drenched in oil could get so corroded. Mike Frank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 07:06:15 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] group photo http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/Family-foto-31-MAY-2008/ missing are the two old mercedes Diesels and my J10... and the J10 trailer... :) ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://wagoneers.com john's 6.2L GW: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/ SAVE FUEL use AMSOIL Synthethics: http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 09:21:53 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] engine mounts found some websites... http://www.rubber-group.com/cgi-bin/xiso3_s.cfm need to figure out what the best material is for th engine mounts... ideas? also need to locate OEM rubber body mounts for my '91 Grand Wagoneer (SJ), anything from 1981 and up will work john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://wagoneers.com john's 6.2L GW: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/ SAVE FUEL use AMSOIL Synthethics: http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 12:00:43 -0700 From: "Greg Fiorentino" Subject: RE: [db] Need help 124 again My experience with penetrants is that PB Blaster works best. Vibration to the part aids greatly in penetration. This can be done by putting a wrench on it and tapping GENTLY with a small hammer. Greg Fiorentino '85 300SD '80 240D 4 spd. manual '79 300DT (about to receive new crate engine) - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Mike Frank Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 6:38 PM To: diesel-benz list Subject: [db] Need help 124 again My oil cooler is leaking. I did a good job of tracking down a good spare for cheap, now I need to install it. The problem is that the lines are totally frozen. The connectors are maybe 12mm steel lines, with huge flare nuts. I don't mind sacrificing the cooler, since it's perforated. But how to save the lines? when I've had this problem with brakes, I've spliced in a new length of brake line with a flare coupler. But I don't know how to make a flare in such a large line. Has anyone had this problem, and is there a solution, short of replacing the ($400) hoses? Here's a photo of the offending part: http://tinyurl.com/6f32ax Imagine the connectors at the bottom of the photo as a ball of rust. I have no idea how something that's drenched in oil could get so corroded. Mike Frank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 12:17:37 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: RE: [db] Need help 124 again pb blaster is amazing stuff, smells pretty bad... I reserve it for the seriously stuck stuff... amsoil MP works splendidly 99% of the time and doesn't have the heavy stench with it. ;) ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://wagoneers.com john's 6.2L GW: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/ SAVE FUEL use AMSOIL Synthetics: http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Mon, 2 Jun 2008, Greg Fiorentino wrote: # My experience with penetrants is that PB Blaster works best. Vibration to # the part aids greatly in penetration. This can be done by putting a wrench # on it and tapping GENTLY with a small hammer. # # # Greg Fiorentino # '85 300SD # '80 240D 4 spd. manual # '79 300DT (about to receive new crate engine) # # -----Original Message----- # From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On # Behalf Of Mike Frank # Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 6:38 PM # To: diesel-benz list # Subject: [db] Need help 124 again # # My oil cooler is leaking. I did a good job of tracking down a good # spare for cheap, now I need to install it. The problem is that the # lines are totally frozen. The connectors are maybe 12mm steel lines, # with huge flare nuts. I don't mind sacrificing the cooler, since it's # perforated. But how to save the lines? when I've had this problem # with brakes, I've spliced in a new length of brake line with a flare # coupler. But I don't know how to make a flare in such a large line. # Has anyone had this problem, and is there a solution, short of # replacing the ($400) hoses? Here's a photo of the offending part: # # http://tinyurl.com/6f32ax # # Imagine the connectors at the bottom of the photo as a ball of rust. # I have no idea how something that's drenched in oil could get so corroded. # # Mike Frank # ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 20:53:34 GMT From: "jasonbassett-at-juno.com" Subject: RE: [db] Need help 124 again Really? I thought it smelled ok.....I think it's scented, like WD-40 (and that one I KNOW is scented.) J - -- john wrote: pb blaster is amazing stuff, smells pretty bad... I reserve it for the seriously stuck stuff... amsoil MP works splendidly 99% of the time and doesn't have the heavy stench with it. ;) ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://wagoneers.com john's 6.2L GW: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/ SAVE FUEL use AMSOIL Synthetics: http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Mon, 2 Jun 2008, Greg Fiorentino wrote: # My experience with penetrants is that PB Blaster works best. Vibration to # the part aids greatly in penetration. This can be done by putting a wrench # on it and tapping GENTLY with a small hammer. # # # Greg Fiorentino # '85 300SD # '80 240D 4 spd. manual # '79 300DT (about to receive new crate engine) # # -----Original Message----- # From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On # Behalf Of Mike Frank # Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 6:38 PM # To: diesel-benz list # Subject: [db] Need help 124 again # # My oil cooler is leaking. I did a good job of tracking down a good # spare for cheap, now I need to install it. The problem is that the # lines are totally frozen. The connectors are maybe 12mm steel lines, # with huge flare nuts. I don't mind sacrificing the cooler, since it's # perforated. But how to save the lines? when I've had this problem # with brakes, I've spliced in a new length of brake line with a flare # coupler. But I don't know how to make a flare in such a large line. # Has anyone had this problem, and is there a solution, short of # replacing the ($400) hoses? Here's a photo of the offending part: # # http://tinyurl.com/6f32ax # # Imagine the connectors at the bottom of the photo as a ball of rust. # I have no idea how something that's drenched in oil could get so corroded. # # Mike Frank # ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 13:56:40 -0700 From: "Nick Eckert" Subject: [db] Purchase of 1991 300D My 240D blew up last week on I-90. The timing chain broke, exiting through the valve cover and the oil pan. I looked at two different vehicles over the weekend, a 1987 300D for $5,000 and a 1991 300D for $3,500. The 1987 was ok, but has a lot of minor cosmetic blemishes usual things didn't operate properly on an old M-B. I liked how fast it was. Very quick off the line. The 1991 was in much better shape with pretty much everything working on it. Has all the service records for the first 150,000k miles, but nothing since. 220,000 miles on it. Nice acceleration compared to the 240D. I wound up putting a deposit on the 1991 and I pick it up this evening. It's Champagne in color and needs a good detailing, but should be a good runner with a little TLC. Cheers, Nick ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 14:16:00 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Purchase of 1991 300D you'll like the '91 300D... mine has served us well... faster than a honda civic... :) (not by much, but enough... especially the ones with the those loud coffee can megaphones (can't really call it a muffler). john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://wagoneers.com john's 6.2L GW: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/ SAVE FUEL use AMSOIL Synthetics: http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Mon, 2 Jun 2008, Nick Eckert wrote: # My 240D blew up last week on I-90. The timing chain broke, exiting # through the valve cover and the oil pan. # # I looked at two different vehicles over the weekend, a 1987 300D for # $5,000 and a 1991 300D for $3,500. # # The 1987 was ok, but has a lot of minor cosmetic blemishes usual things # didn't operate properly on an old M-B. I liked how fast it was. Very # quick off the line. # # The 1991 was in much better shape with pretty much everything working on # it. Has all the service records for the first 150,000k miles, but # nothing since. 220,000 miles on it. Nice acceleration compared to the # 240D. # # I wound up putting a deposit on the 1991 and I pick it up this evening. # It's Champagne in color and needs a good detailing, but should be a good # runner with a little TLC. # # Cheers, # Nick ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 22:18:52 GMT From: "jasonbassett-at-juno.com" Subject: Re: [db] Purchase of 1991 300D Yes, and if you adjust the IP, you can make it so it will WASTE the coffee can idiots. I need to make a bumper sticker to reply to the "if it's too loud, you're too old" crowd. Something to the effect of, "If your music rattles my windows, your IQ is negative." Or maybe, "Great music isn't measured on the Richter scale." Or "Turn it down, minimum-wage-earning brain-dead government-assistance-sucking scum!" Or something else that would get my car trashed if I left it parked in the wrong part of town without an army brigade guarding it. Funny how the lower the quality of the "music," the louder it gets played. Did I mention that I think the modern "boom boom" music is CRAP? Ludwig van Beethoven, anybody surnamed Bach (there were several) Frederic Chopin, Gustav Mahler, Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett, Andy Williams, Henry Mancini, Al Martino: THESE men knew how to make music. Most people today just make noise. Although Michael Buble isn't bad. And Josh Groban has some things going for him, too. (Unfortunately, NOT his handlers 8^( but we can't have everything...) /rant off I'm a musician, so don't mind if I'm a bit critical of those who spew noise and call it music. I have spent the better part of my life developing musical skill, and I find it disgusting that people are able to "make it" in the "music" industry by showing skin and breathing in the microphone. Which reminds me: I'm moving to a resort/country club area. Assuming I do a good job with the songs (which I think I do,) what kind of audience receptiveness would I likely have doing the old standards as evening entertainment? Do Baby Boomers mostly enjoy them, or just the very elderly who were children when the songs were new? OK: POLL TIME: Please e-mail me off-list as to whether you do or don't like "Old Standards," and your approximate age would be helpful, too, if you feel comfortable sharing it. Anyway, HOW was this diesel-related? [scrolling back up to top of message.....scrolls back down] oh yeah! IP adjustment to shame the coffee-canners. Yes. Diesel indeed. Go diesel. 8^) J - -- john wrote: you'll like the '91 300D... mine has served us well... faster than a honda civic... :) (not by much, but enough... especially the ones with the those loud coffee can megaphones (can't really call it a muffler). john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://wagoneers.com john's 6.2L GW: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Omega/ SAVE FUEL use AMSOIL Synthetics: http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Mon, 2 Jun 2008, Nick Eckert wrote: # My 240D blew up last week on I-90. The timing chain broke, exiting # through the valve cover and the oil pan. # # I looked at two different vehicles over the weekend, a 1987 300D for # $5,000 and a 1991 300D for $3,500. # # The 1987 was ok, but has a lot of minor cosmetic blemishes usual things # didn't operate properly on an old M-B. I liked how fast it was. Very # quick off the line. # # The 1991 was in much better shape with pretty much everything working on # it. Has all the service records for the first 150,000k miles, but # nothing since. 220,000 miles on it. Nice acceleration compared to the # 240D. # # I wound up putting a deposit on the 1991 and I pick it up this evening. # It's Champagne in color and needs a good detailing, but should be a good # runner with a little TLC. # # Cheers, # Nick ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #2774 **********************************