From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Fri Aug 29 14:04:52 2008 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Friday, August 29 2008 Volume 01 : Number 2847 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: [db] UPDATE: Stuck Injector Heat Shield and Next Items to Tackle Re: [db] UPDATE: Stuck Injector Heat Shield and Next Items to Tackle [db] Re: Diesel Willys? [db] Bleeding brakes W124.128 300D 2.5 Turbo Re: [db] Bleeding brakes W124.128 300D 2.5 Turbo Re: [db] Bleeding brakes W124.128 300D 2.5 Turbo Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:34:34 -0700 From: "Nick Eckert" Subject: [db] UPDATE: Stuck Injector Heat Shield and Next Items to Tackle All, Well after getting input from the Eric here on the list, Conaway Motors, Phil Smart Mercedes and Mercedes Source, where I purchased the injector nozzles from, I put a plug in the heat shield hole and squirted some PB Blaster in the injector hole and let it soak for a day. The heat shield would still not budge so I decided to just put the injector back in and run with it. I put in Monark injector nozzles from Mercedes Source and replaced the o-rings and copper washers on the output fittings for the IP that I got from Diesel Giant. This has made a huge difference in the engine performance. Starts much quicker and smoother, faster acceleration, smoother transmission shifting. Having re-built and driven over 500,000 miles in diesel cars this was a big improvement. Well worth the $160 in parts. There is still some vibration coming from the engine at idle and the next items I am going to tackle are replacing the engine/transmission/differential mounts and seeing if I can change the shift points of the transmission. It is my first time having an automatic transmission in a diesel and I hate it. The transmission seems to shift too early and never be in the torque curve. I have started driving around town in 3 and only putting it in D on the freeway. If I have it in D around town it will up shift to 4th speed at about 35mph....yuck! Cheers, Nick 1991 M-B 300D 2.5 Turbo 1961 Land Rover Series II Hybrid with a 2.5TD, R380 and Front/Center/Rear Diff locks 1967 Land Rover Series IIa 5-door with a 200TDI 1997 Land Rover Discovery ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:57:27 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] UPDATE: Stuck Injector Heat Shield and Next Items to Tackle will be interesting to see what you learn about the shiftpoints... I've noticed a difference on mine with the fuel used... some batches of biodiesel are pretty weak and have a lot less power, shifts way later... john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Thu, 28 Aug 2008, Nick Eckert wrote: # All, # # # # Well after getting input from the Eric here on the list, # Conaway Motors, Phil Smart Mercedes and Mercedes Source, where I # purchased the injector nozzles from, I put a plug in the heat shield # hole and squirted some PB Blaster in the injector hole and let it soak # for a day. The heat shield would still not budge so I decided to just # put the injector back in and run with it. # # # # I put in Monark injector nozzles from Mercedes Source and # replaced the o-rings and copper washers on the output fittings for the # IP that I got from Diesel Giant. This has made a huge difference in the # engine performance. Starts much quicker and smoother, faster # acceleration, smoother transmission shifting. Having re-built and # driven over 500,000 miles in diesel cars this was a big improvement. # Well worth the $160 in parts. # # # # There is still some vibration coming from the engine at idle # and the next items I am going to tackle are replacing the # engine/transmission/differential mounts and seeing if I can change the # shift points of the transmission. It is my first time having an # automatic transmission in a diesel and I hate it. The transmission # seems to shift too early and never be in the torque curve. I have # started driving around town in 3 and only putting it in D on the # freeway. If I have it in D around town it will up shift to 4th speed at # about 35mph....yuck! # # # # # # Cheers, # # # # Nick # # # # 1991 M-B 300D 2.5 Turbo # # 1961 Land Rover Series II Hybrid with a 2.5TD, R380 and # Front/Center/Rear Diff locks # # 1967 Land Rover Series IIa 5-door with a 200TDI # # 1997 Land Rover Discovery # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:34:58 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] Re: Diesel Willys? http://wagoneers.com/fotos/2008/07-Jul-22-transfer-cases-n-old-cars/JoesToys/ALL.html ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Thu, 28 Aug 2008, Jim Hoffman wrote: # "Joe in Everett has a 4bt in an FSJ chassis with a # Willys Pickup cab and # flat bed on it... so I have a model to follow. " # # Any pics?? # # Jim # ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 13:48:49 -0400 From: Wiard Pless Subject: [db] Bleeding brakes W124.128 300D 2.5 Turbo Hi, As brake fluid in reservoir looked I thought it's time to change it. I started with sucking old fluid out of the reservoir and added new one. Then I used a Mityvac pump on all 4 calipers(starting right right, left rear, right front, left front. I was able to get brake fluid out but still had some air bubbles.- thought they were caused by having the nipple open. When finished I had absolutely no pressure on the brake paddle, with or without engine running. Now I tried to pressure bleed the brakes. I am only getting air out of the nipples a;nd very little fluid - yes plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Car has ABS but no other features like ASR etc. According to my manual nothing special to bleed brakes on this model - only if you have ASR. Brakes were working normal before I started to mess with them. Has the brake reservoir 2 chambers? Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. Wiard ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 13:05:12 -0500 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: Re: [db] Bleeding brakes W124.128 300D 2.5 Turbo Don't we use the Volvo-style "dual-diagonal circuit" layout? The reservoir should have a vertical divider splitting it into front and back sections, where one section feeds left front and right rear, and the other section feeds the other two corners. The vertical divider doesn't go all the way to the top of the reservoir, but you might have emptied one half while bleeding. Alec On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 12:48 PM, Wiard Pless wrote: > Hi, > As brake fluid in reservoir looked I thought it's time to change it. > I started with sucking old fluid out of the reservoir and added new one. > Then I used a Mityvac pump on all 4 calipers(starting right right, left > rear, right front, left front. I was able to get brake fluid out but still > had some air bubbles.- thought they were caused by having the nipple open. > When finished I had absolutely no pressure on the brake paddle, with or > without engine running. > Now I tried to pressure bleed the brakes. I am only getting air out of the > nipples a;nd very little fluid - yes plenty of fluid in the reservoir. > Car has ABS but no other features like ASR etc. > According to my manual nothing special to bleed brakes on this model - only > if you have ASR. Brakes were working normal before I started > to mess with them. Has the brake reservoir 2 chambers? Any other > suggestions are greatly appreciated. Wiard ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 16:55:11 -0400 From: Wiard Pless Subject: Re: [db] Bleeding brakes W124.128 300D 2.5 Turbo Hi Alec, many thanks for your message. I looked into the reservoir but could not see a divider. After having received your msg. I had another look and could that in the back of the reservoir was no brake fluid. Although I had filled up the reservoir to the max level before this time I filled it to right to the rim and then slowly brake fluid did run into the 2nd chamber. Bled all wheels again and the pressure is back. Enjoy the long weekend but pls stop sending the remnants of hurricans / tropical storm to our area. Wiard PS the vertical divider on my TR6 is easy to see and I know that I have to keep both sections full when bleeding. Alec Cordova wrote: > Don't we use the Volvo-style "dual-diagonal circuit" layout? The > reservoir should have a vertical divider splitting it into front and > back sections, where one section feeds left front and right rear, and > the other section feeds the other two corners. The vertical divider > doesn't go all the way to the top of the reservoir, but you might have > emptied one half while bleeding. > > Alec > > On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 12:48 PM, Wiard Pless > wrote: > > Hi, > As brake fluid in reservoir looked I thought it's time to change it. > I started with sucking old fluid out of the reservoir and added > new one. > Then I used a Mityvac pump on all 4 calipers(starting right right, > left rear, right front, left front. I was able to get brake fluid > out but still had some air bubbles.- thought they were caused by > having the nipple open. > When finished I had absolutely no pressure on the brake paddle, > with or without engine running. > Now I tried to pressure bleed the brakes. I am only getting air > out of the nipples a;nd very little fluid - yes plenty of fluid in > the reservoir. > Car has ABS but no other features like ASR etc. > According to my manual nothing special to bleed brakes on this > model - only if you have ASR. Brakes were working normal before I > started > to mess with them. Has the brake reservoir 2 chambers? Any other > suggestions are greatly appreciated. Wiard > > > Internal Virus Database is out of date. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.0/1556 - Release Date: 7/16/2008 4:56 PM ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #2847 **********************************