From owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Mon Jun 22 05:21:15 2009 From: diesel-benz-digest diesel-benz-digest Monday, June 22 2009 Volume 01 : Number 3088 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [db] Turn signal help [db] nailing when warm [db] Diesel options [db] Tough motor mount boltss [db] Re: Tough motor mount boltss RE: [db] 67 200D is done Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 23:21:23 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: [db] Turn signal help sounds like the wiring going to the front light is the issue, I'd start with making sure it had a very good ground before messing with anything. Take a wire and hold it to the lamp base and run it up to the battery with the turn signal on and see if it lights... if it does, bad ground. If not, step two is to find out if there is any voltage at the base of the bulb. If not, work your way back... it is possible that the fast flashing is the result of a short, the flashers work on the resistance of the bulbs heating up a bimetallic strip in the flasher. If the resistance changes, so does the flashing rate... and since I can't remember if it's got a positive or negative coefficient we can just guess that there is something wrong with the wiring from the switch to the right front bulb. If you can get to the back of the light, try disconneting it from the bulb, or where ever that fray was. Use a 12v test light to trace things back, or better, if you have access to a multimeter check the resistance of the bulb contact with the power off, if it goes to ground with the switch off it is a shorted wire. Just work your way back into the harness. The box you're talking about is probably a connector, try disconnecting the lead going to the bulb and see if it changes the flashing rate, or use the test light to see if you can see anything there. If it does, then the problem with between there and the bulb and all you need to do is replace that wire. I've chased wiring problems like this on several old jeeps... what I've done is cut the wire at the bulb base and at the switch connection up by the dash and just run an entirely new wire... but that was for a Jeep, not a Mercedes... just work your way through the wiring until you find the short, or possibly the open. you've got it pretty well narrowed down... You could just disconnect the wire at the switch and see if the rear light flashes normally, then try to trace that wire, or just replace it... happy hunting. john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Sat, 20 Jun 2009, Bob Hamilton wrote: # I thought I would start a new email for this one. I think this is the only # thing that I need to get fixed in order for the 200D to pass an inspection. # Here's what is happening. # # # 1. The turn signal on the left (driver) side is working fine and normal # both front and rear. # # 2. The hazard lights are working normally on the left side and the right # side at the back - not working on the front right side. It actually seems to # be a different flasher that is being used. # # 3. When I put on the right signal, I get a fast flashing going on the # back right, nothing on the front. # # 4. I did have all the lights out. When reassembling, I noticed a frayed # wire on the right side front and replaced it. There is a little black box at # the front (maybe a relay?) that it plugs into. # # 5. The bulbs are all fine. There doesn't seem to be a signal being sent # to the front right side. # # Any guesses as to where I should look? Thanks ... Bob # ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 12:17:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Eric Ditwiler Subject: [db] nailing when warm My 82 300CD with close to 400K on it started nailing when warm after I adjusted the valves. I checked the valves again--thinking maybe I had set an exhaust to intake specs or vice-a-versa. They were all good. I pulled and tested the injectors. One had a weakened spring and was popping at 1900 PSI instead of the 2125 that was my target for the Monark #265 nozzles. Swapped out the spring and re calibrated the injector. While they were out I did a compression check and found two cylinders at 400, two at 460 and one at 480. These last three seem kind of high to me. Does that mean my prechambers are full of soot or something? They all looked about the same when a took a flashlight and looked down the holes under the nozzle reeds (sooty glow plug tip and ball pin). I reinstalled the injectors and this time one of the weaker holes (#5 at 400 PSI) was nailing when cold. I swapped out that injector with my #6 trunk spare injector which had about the same pop pressure (2150) and spray pattern--this time no nailing. I am, however, getting a fair amount of blow-by. I am wondering if this is coming from the two weak holes or the extra-high pressure holes. Shutting the injectors down one at a time does not change the blow-by--its a steady stream like steam off a hot cup of coffee on a cold day. Injectors sure make all the difference with a diesel! Now, I only hope they don't leak! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 12:28:57 -0700 (PDT) From: diesel john Subject: [db] Diesel options considering various Diesel options... (popcorn ready?) Diesel... Automatic... A/C... 4x4... 1) found an '85 XJ turbo Diesel... needs paint and work... $900, would end up with about 3 grand invested in a rig with a rare and expensive French Diesel... haven't called the guy back... think I'll pass on this one. it's tempting, but nothing else will go under that hood easily if that Renault engine goes tango uniform... those things are fragile... o-rings... timing belt... 2) found an '08 WK with the 3.0CRD... sweet rig, nice, right color, drives out nicely, similiar performance to my '91 300D... only problem is the $26K price tag... sadly, must walk away... payments aren't part of my budget... 3) looking at Dodge Pickups... no need for such a large vehicle, there is no doubt about how good the Cummins Diesels are... awesome, and now affordable, but I just don't need a freight train. will keep looking for one that rides nice and has a short box, ext. cab. 4) looking at Chevy pickups... not excited about another 6.5... found a '93 with a 6.2 banks setup... Wisconsin rig, rust... affordable... waiting for a call, suspect it's a long bed, we'll see how it rides... wife liked the '94 blazer, keeps reminding me of that... :) 5) improve the '86 cj-10a as a test for the '83 J10 stepside - put the turbo SD33T in place and test it out, then transplant the complete drivetrain to my '83 J10 stepside... this solves the problem of the missing pieces for the extra 727 and motor mounts... would then drop something else in the cj-10a... maybe the SD33 with the T19. (I'm thinking I'll go with the AT in the J10 despite the power loss. ;) so... thinking through all this I'm thinking that putting the turbo in the tug would take about a weekend and verify the power before I tear up my J10. If I like the power then just rob the drivetrain for a better riding more comfortable rig and then shop an inexpensive drivetrain for the tug, or reassemble it with the manual setup so it too has a Diesel and more power... thoughts? should I bother with the extra swap in the tug??? john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 19:20:32 -0400 From: Edward Pomeroy Subject: [db] Tough motor mount boltss John & gang Have just spend an hour trying to get the upper bolts that hold the motor mounts on the 1993 300D to the mount bracket, using an impact wrench and 17mm socket. They won't budge and I am afraid of rounding off that bolt head. The darned thing is ever so slightly tilted towards the block with makes it damned hard to get the socket to stay on it. There is no room to swing a hammer at a stubby wrench down there so what is the secret? Do I have to unbolt the underside from the crossmember first then remove the actual mount brackets from the engine block? What a pain! Any pointers you can give me appreciated. I am going to soak them in WD 40 for a week but with all the oil down there I would not expect rust to be a problem. Oxide of aluminum maybe? Will get some new short depth impact sockets tomorrow and will grind them so that the grabby parts are flush with the base of the bolt head. Thanks, Edward ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 18:53:21 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: [db] Re: Tough motor mount boltss will have to take a look... got a picture? john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Sun, 21 Jun 2009, Edward Pomeroy wrote: # John & gang # # Have just spend an hour trying to get the upper bolts that hold the motor # mounts on the 1993 300D to the mount bracket, using an impact wrench and # 17mm socket. They won't budge and I am afraid of rounding off that bolt head. # The darned thing is ever so slightly tilted towards the block with makes it # damned hard to get the socket to stay on it. There is no room to swing a # hammer at a stubby wrench down there so what is the secret? # Do I have to unbolt the underside from the crossmember first then remove the # actual mount brackets from the engine block? What a pain! Any pointers you # can give me appreciated. I am going to soak them in WD 40 for a week but # with all the oil down there I would not expect rust to be a problem. Oxide # of aluminum maybe? # # Will get some new short depth impact sockets tomorrow and will grind them so # that the grabby parts are flush with the base of the bolt head. # # Thanks, # Edward # ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 07:19:01 -0500 From: "Potter, Tom E" Subject: RE: [db] 67 200D is done I had a '67 230 gasser with a 4-on-the-floor transmission. I loved the car, but the rust demons got the best of it. I finally had to abandon it to the salvage yard. Thomas E. Potter - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Bob Hamilton Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 6:53 PM To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: [db] 67 200D is done I have had this car for just over 4 years. I bought it from the daughter of the original owner - I even have the original bill of sale. It's always been in Alberta, Canada where I live. It was rusty and there were a few times when I was ready to abandon it. But I would take a few months off and then start poking away again. I put the front grill on this morning, mounted the wheels (from a 300D), took it off the floor stands and went for a drive. I had got it running a couple days ago - it was remarkably easy. It hadn't started for over 4 years. I plugged in the block heater and got it nice and hot. After about 20 seconds of turning over, it fired and the sweet sound of a diesel Mercedes resonated in the shop. I did anticipate the smoke so the doors were open! I have named it Rolf, in memory of the original owner. I have a few little things to fix - turn signal on one side not working, fuel gauge is jumpy, speedometer isn't working. I think with a little troubleshooting, I'll get those fixed. I put a bunch of pictures of it and the process at: http://picasaweb.google.ca/hamibob/Rolf67200D# There is even a video so you can listen to it run!! Anyway, thought I'd share my success with a bunch of Mercedes Benz people! .... Bob ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #3088 **********************************