Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:20:23 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: email bounced
read the bottom of my emails!!!
yes there is overnight camping and flush toilets at hollister.
the only best time is to thrust out a date and
c if so many people can makeit instead of saying to all:
what time is a good time, lest say the 7/4 weekend.
we can have our own calnev fsj fest the same time john and
the rest r having their PNW fest!!!
why dont we do that, we just announce that the CalNev IFSJA is having
their own fest on the weekend of the 4th of july at
holister hills SRVA, and see what kind of reaction we get.
but as u can imagine, it will be crowded, so if we get too much
flak, we can chose another weekend!!
Kara Moloney and Mick Delaney wrote:
>
> Hey SuperKen,
> your email address, <kenns-at-concentric.net> keeps bouncing my mail to
> you.
> Anyway regarding the SupercenCA Supermeet, i have a few questions:
> can you camp overnight? any facilities?
> Any ideas when to go?
>
> If anyone else wants to get in on this, speak (or type) now.
> Mick
> NOT the reg cord for anywhere, where is K.Striech anyway?
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command
> "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
>
>
--
********To reply, use ONLY the email address below********
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go
where a CJ can go, then it's
kenns-at-concentric.net a Super Wagoneer
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 21:30:34 -0500 From: "Sc0" <jjd-at-flex.net> Subject: 4x4 Does this make any sense for 4x4'ing? Go in with the 2 wheel drive. When you get stuck, get out with 4 wheel drive. "We are Microsoft, Resistance is Futile." Sc0[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 21:59:14 -0500 (CDT) From: Moake Brian <iw67-at-jove.acs.unt.edu> Subject: I can sound like I know what I am talking about I just received my service manuals in the mail... I guess I can now sound like I know what I am talking about if I have enough time to look it up.[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:02:21 -0400 From: "John Jacobs" <jabobsj-at-flash.net> Subject: Jacobs Ignition System Installation This is also on my web-site.. ..... Start ........ Jacobs Ignition System Installation Well, I got my Jacobs Ignition System in the mail last week and installed it yesterday. I purchased the Omni Magnum Team with Ultra-fit plug wires (Part Number 361897) package, and paid about $400. I have a 1975 Jeep Wagoneer with a 360 V8 and the BID distributor system (an early AMC attempt at HEI.) I am using the stock coil, distributor and cap. I installed new basic Champion plugs gapped to their recommended .052" (yeah, it does seem like a lot.) The system comes with three basic pieces: the Omni-Magnum main unit, Secondary Trigger, and the new plug wires. The package also comes with all of the necessary mounting hardware. The first step was to figure out where to put the main unit. The main unit is about 4" in length, 4" high, with a width of 5" at the base and 3.5" on top. It took a while to find a place, but I decided to go with the front wall on the driver's side. It is mounted between the radiator and the light. There is just enough room in there. I also chose this place because it allowed me to run the power leads to the battery by running them with headlamp wiring harness running in front of the radiator. To install the unit I marked my pilots, drilled 'em, then used the supplied self-tapping screws to attach the unit. I then installed the secondary trigger on the driver's side wheel well using the same tactic. The secondary unit is approximately 5.25" x 2" x 1" (l x w x h) and also mounts with the self-tapping screws included. Next was the wiring, which was not hard at all. I hooked the lead from the main unit to the distributor, and the lead from the secondary unit to my stock coil. I also changed my plugs and wires at this time. Then I took the power leads and ran them to the battery, following the wiring harness for the headlamps. Since the power leads aren't the longest I snaked them up the passenger side of the radiator harness and hooked them up to the battery. I taped and zipped-tied them *real* good too keep them from rubbing or touching something warm. Finally, I installed the included 15amp fuse. The system was now ready to go. I re-checked the connections then hopped in the cab. First crank and it started, all right!! I hooked up the timing light and set it to 5 degrees BTDC. I took it out for a test spin and it seemed real good.. but-- when I really got in the throttle it started knocking like nobody's business. So I moved the timing back to 2.5 degrees BTDC (stock) and took it out again. Same thing, only not as noticeable. I was kind of bummed by this, but it was late and I didn't have time to tinker with it anymore. I also should note that this was also present with the stock ignition system. I believe the knocking is due over-advance with the vacuum on the distributor. I am going to re-do all of the vacuum hoses and see if this helps. If not, maybe close the gap on the plugs a little. As a final note, I came home from work today and decided to see how the Wag started in the rain (60s and steady rain today). It started on the first shot, but I am still having problems idling (once again pointing to vacuum problems.) After I let it idle for a minute I took off for a trip around the block. I got heavy in the throttle and I didn't notice the knock from yesterday. I guess it will be a work in progress... John Jacobs -+- jabobsj-at-flash.net 75 Wagoneer Royal Oak, Michigan http://www.flash.net/~jabobsj[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:16:56 -0400 From: Zack Heisey <moosh-at-redrose.net> Subject: '62-'72 Parts Manual PRICES Hello all, I stopped by the printers on tuesday to get some prices, and am now finally posting them. I got four different prices for four different kinds of paper. Here they are, lightest paper to heaviest. 24# Text: (Next heavier than regular paper) $45 Out The Door 70# Text: (Thicker and heavier) $50 OTD 80# Text: (Really thick and heavy, I recommend) $55 OTD 67# Cover Stock (Oh my god thick, this is normally just for covers. Made my original copy on this stuff, turned a 3" book into a 6" book, 2 binders) $60 OTD Let me know what everyone thinks. I have this figured down to the last penny, so if we don't come up with ten or close, it'll be higher. We have to decide on ONE of these. I can't do a couple of each, sorry. Later, Zack Heisey '79 J-10 '79 Cherokee Chief Wide Track[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 20:29:06 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <jeep-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: '62-'72 Parts Manual PRICES >80# Text: (Really thick and heavy, I recommend) $55 OTD >Zack Heisey Zack, My vote is for the above. I sent a check for $50 already. I'll be gone (sun night) before this prolly gets decided but back around 4 july. Should I send ya the $5 now? Prolly huh? I'd guess everyone else would go for the heavy paper... Let me know. Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:30:47 -0400 From: "John Jacobs" <jabobsj-at-flash.net> Subject: quick PNW FSJ fest#2 update >y'all take care, it's time to get a few hours sleep before I go and >play with the computers in Issaquah... (setting up a K460, 2 >processors, 768 meg, 100 base T, hp-ux 10.2, 80 gig...(need more, >more power, arrr,arr, arr(I don't do a very good Tim allen >impersonation do I? ) Hey John, I hope you don't do too good of an impression of Tim Allen. I would hate to think you'd be out driving drunk.. (It's **really** big news here in Detroit..) John Jacobs <<>> jabobsj-at-flash.net 75 Wagoneer Royal Oak, Michigan http://www.flash.net/~jabobsj[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 20:30:21 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: 4x4
no...go in w/ 4x4, dont get stuck!!!
Sc0 wrote:
>
> Does this make any sense for 4x4'ing?
>
> Go in with the 2 wheel drive.
> When you get stuck, get out with 4 wheel drive.
>
> "We are Microsoft, Resistance is Futile."
> Sc0
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command
> "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
>
>
--
********To reply, use ONLY the email address below********
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go
where a CJ can go, then it's
kenns-at-concentric.net a Super Wagoneer
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 20:32:37 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: I can sound like I know what I am talking about
hey everyone!! can u just smell the fresh pages of his
NEW service manuals!?!?! mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm good! ;)
nice crisp pages, starch white pages, ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh,
this is too much, id better sit down!!
Moake Brian wrote:
>
> I just received my service manuals in the mail... I guess I can now sound
> like I know what I am talking about if I have enough time to look it up.
>
--
********To reply, use ONLY the email address below********
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go
where a CJ can go, then it's
kenns-at-concentric.net a Super Wagoneer
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 20:36:03 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: '62-'72 Parts Manual PRICES
i vote for the 80#
-- Zack Heisey wrote:
>
> 80# Text: (Really thick and heavy, I recommend) $55 OTD
********To reply, use ONLY the email address below********
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go
where a CJ can go, then it's
kenns-at-concentric.net a Super Wagoneer
[Back to Top]Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:06:34 -0400 From: Zack Heisey <moosh-at-redrose.net> Subject: Re: '62-'72 Parts Manual PRICES just hold on to it for now. We'll figure it all out in the end. Your book will probably be there when you get back. Have fun, Zack Joe Schaefer wrote: > > >80# Text: (Really thick and heavy, I recommend) $55 OTD > >Zack Heisey > > Zack, > My vote is for the above. I sent a check for $50 already. I'll be gone (sun > night) before this prolly gets decided but back around 4 july. Should I > send ya the $5 now? Prolly huh? I'd guess everyone else would go for the > heavy paper... > > Let me know. > Regards, > -jj > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 20:59:54 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: email bounced SuperKen wrote: > > read the bottom of my emails!!! > > yes there is overnight camping and flush toilets at hollister. > the only best time is to thrust out a date and > c if so many people can makeit instead of saying to all: > > what time is a good time, lest say the 7/4 weekend. > we can have our own calnev fsj fest the same time john and > the rest r having their PNW fest!!! > > why dont we do that, we just announce that the CalNev IFSJA is having > their own fest on the weekend of the 4th of july at > holister hills SRVA, and see what kind of reaction we get. > > but as u can imagine, it will be crowded, so if we get too much > flak, we can chose another weekend!! > Let's pick another weekend. Never been to Hollister, what all is there? Tom Anhalt[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 21:06:01 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: The right # for Poston Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you guys on a couple messages. My ISP has been upgrading their mail servers and as a result of this "upgrade" I couldn't send out or reply to email messages for 2 days...Oh Well. Anyway, my apologies on the phone number I gave you for Poston Enterprises. I just copied what was on the cover of the catalog they sent me. Since that didn't seem to do the trick I found where I had originally written the number down...and guess what? It's an 800 #!!! Here it is: 1-800-635-9781 That's the number I used when I originally called them. I had gotten it from another company when I called an 800 number for a now defunct Buick GS/Olds 442 parts supplier. Again, sorry for the other number Tom Anhalt[Back to Top]
Date: 30 May 97 00:21:30 EDT From: Edwin Pedersen <102551.2631-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: NE FSJ Brouhaha >If you haven't been contacted off list by Steve Levine (NE FSJ >coordinator) and would like to participate please contact Steve at >yinadril-at-juno.com or me at phil_horton-at-avid.com. We can provide >directions 'n stuff. >Should be a great time. We'll get some group shots for the sites. >BYOW(rench) >take care >Phil Horton >phil_horton-at-avid.com >'88 Grand Wagoneer (BBQ transportation device) Phil, Put me down as a maybe !! :)) Hey, as long as I have to go over the 49 th parallel, might as well make it worthwhile <G> Eddie in Vancouver[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 21:27:46 -0700 From: BG <garrison-at-ptw.com> Subject: Re: Jacobs Ignition System Installation John Jacobs wrote: > So I moved the timing back to 2.5 > degrees BTDC (stock) and took it out again. Same thing, only not as > noticeable. I was kind of bummed by this, but it was late and I didn't > have time to tinker with it anymore. > > I also should note that this was also present with the stock ignition > system. I believe the knocking is due over-advance with the vacuum on the > distributor. I am going to re-do all of the vacuum hoses and see if this > helps. If not, maybe close the gap on the plugs a little. John, I would not gap the plugs down any. Your problem is in the timing. Remember that a high energy ignition effectivly advances your timing anyway due to the more efficient combustion and faster "light off". My 360 with the "Energy Team" did the same thing. I found that the OEM flyweights in the mechanical advance were worn and provided too much advance. Once replaced with new spings, weights and vacuum can the timing was adjusted to the retarded side and WOW!!!! I had a new truck! I swear by the system and it has proven itself many times. Bert Garrison 78' J-20, 360 4bbl, T-18, D20 Edwards CA My truck can be seen at http://www.mindspring.com/~us004765/jeepbret.htm or http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj/bertg.html[Back to Top]
Date: 30 May 97 00:49:26 EDT From: Edwin Pedersen <102551.2631-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: ETA- Belligham TO Snowhomish ? Gord in Kelowna, From my place it is an hour's drive to Belligham, not including the time it might take to cross the border. John M., How long is the drive from Belligham to your place ?? Eddie in Vancouver[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 97 22:14:12 PDT From: "Alisa Mize" <jaamize-at-nwlink.com> Subject: Re: ETA- Belligham TO Snowhomish ? Eddie, it depends on how you drive and when you drive but assuming you are not getting stuck in traffic jams, we have always been able to make the trip in 2 1/2 to three hours. including a few stops along the way. and we don't speed too much ;) And that is from ballard to bellingham, which is about a half hours difference or so. Alisa[Back to Top]
Date: 30 May 97 01:01:07 EDT
From: Michael Baxter <74172.1164-at-CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: GVW 101
Joe Sego <jsego-at-mindspring.com> writes:
>> Joe is 100% correct! I've noticed the same over the years,
guys look at that tag and go crazy. I haven't put the chief on the
scales but I'm betting not much (if at all) over 4,000 lbs.
<<
SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net> writes:
>> my Super shipped at 4600lbs!! and it aint got PL PW PSeats
<<
SuperKen, where did you get your data? I have your Super's ('67 Model 1414D)
shipping at 4241 lbs.
Trivia, the next heaviest Wag. Model in '67 was the 1414C (4dr Custom) at
3689 lbs. That's what a V-8, A/C and an automatic does to the basic empty
weight (The Super came standard with all that stuff).
Published shipping weights are based on the standard model and do not have
any options included. As an example my '79 Wide-Track's published shipping
weight is 3774 lbs. I weighed it once on an approved public scale with a 1/3
of a tank of gas and about 25 lbs of junk in the back and it was 4233 lbs. Of
course, I have a 360 (BTW, it's a whopping 5 lbs heavier than the 258), auto,
air, cruise and lets not forget that sound proofing option.
My GVW is 6200 lbs. Technically a 1 ton. Yea sure. And 31x10.5s fly too. I'd
sure like to see how well it would sit with 2,000 lbs. in the back. It would
be a good squirrel hunting config. because the headlights would definitely
shine in the trees :-).
-- Michael Baxter, 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter
From Reno, NV USA on 29-May-1997 at 00:12:53 PDT
!^NavFont01F001AMGeHGnMGBBHGBDMGDBHGE2HK3B3EA6
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 29 May 97 22:49:39 PDT From: "Alisa Mize" <jaamize-at-nwlink.com> Subject: Re: GVW 101 I guess I gotta fess up and eat some crow. I went and looked at the weight when I was in the jeep today and it was 4358lb I remembered wrong. oopps!!!! Sorry everybody, Alisa[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:55:28 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: misc responses... & BRIAN RIGGS!!!!!
> Subject: RE: quick PNW FSJ fest#2 update
> >
> >You guys in the LONEstar state are really gonna have to work hard
> >to find this many FSJ's...
>> Does it count if we find a used car lot with a few FSJ's and get
> them in the picture also?
> Jeff Herbst 1982 Wagoneer LTD
perfectly legitimate... :-) so long as they have wheels...
Which means I know where to go for the pictures... there's a holding
lot up the street that has 4 or 5 FSJ's sitting inside the fence...
:-)
--------------
Going on a men's retreat with my son tomorrow, will be back Sunday,
so ya won't hear from me... probably until late Sunday or maybe as
late as Tues...
I'm heading back in the house right now... So if you have any
questions, harrassment aimed at me, etc. Please cc me so I spot it
when I download... I've got two digests here I won't have time to
read tonight...
BRIAN RIGGS - YOU ARE FANTASTIC!!!! I got my Four Wheeler tonight.
OUTSTANDING JOB!!!! I couldn't believe my eyes. There is our
DECAL on a couple of FSJ's!!! That thing wouldn't exist today if
the FSJ team hadn't been in place and working. You and Joe and
everyone would contributed to that process!!! YEEE-HAAWWW.... The
AMC background thing was a great idea, the artwork is superb. Brian,
you took my basic idea and with the help of our FSJ friends we made
something fantastic!!! Joe, thank your son again for his effort.
And JOE SEGO, thanks for your effort in putting those things out
there. Please send my at least 10 of 'em... I'll send a check off
on Monday...
This whole FSJ list thing is an incredible blessing. This isn't
just in one region, it's world wide. It's good to know all of you.
Doc, we've got to get those pictures from Brian on our web pages...
I'll try to scan the fourwheeler page in... I'm gonna have to write
that letter to get permission...
Type to you folks Sunday afternoon or Monday...
BTW, I'm taking Old Blue down to Black Lake Conference Center south
of Olympia... Starting in neutral really does make a difference in
the tranny... the torque converter still has some problems, but I
can drive him... :-)
have a great weekend folks...
john
---------------------------------------------------------------
john-at- http://www./~john
Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Full Size Jeep Page Editor - http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
Pacific Northwest Regional IFSJA Coordinator
---------------------------------------------------------------------
[Back to Top]Date: 30 May 97 03:23:59 EDT From: Michael Baxter <74172.1164-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Assembly lube? Joe Schaefer <jeep-at-olympus.net> writes: >> once you've got the machine work done on the block etc and the new guts in or at least on the way, what did you use to keep rust etc from forming while the engine is apart so long? I'm sure you're using assembly lube on the installed parts as you go but what about long term protection for an unassembled/uninstalled motor? Maybe not a prob in Reno huh? << YOu guessed it Joe with your last sentence. We had a very humid day today in Reno. The humidity was 43%! Most of the time it's less than 20%. >> I'll be doing a slooow rebuild of a 258 this winter, any tips for someone in the wet northwest? I was just planning on covering everything w/motor oil but if it takes me a year too.. then I'm not so confident with that plan. << 1st, I won't do the machine work to my block until everything is ready for this very reason. 2nd, all the suggestions you got plus your own of coating everything with motor oil will work. WD40 is great at preventing rust but, it's hard to tell its there. Marvel Mystery oil is good as well. It's funny that there are a lot of books out there that say "do this" "do that" but, none say in which order to do them. I suggest you do the induction system 1st. Get the heads..oops...head out to a good shop 1st. I always suggest new exhaust valves and if the engine has more than 8.5 to 1, new valve guides. Get all the valve train parts including the cam and the chain. New rockers always and if you have non-stock cam, get adjustable rockers. Once this stage is complete, put everything in plastic bags with lots of those silica Gel packs in the bags on the floor in your closet (or at least inside the house somewhere). The Silica Gel packs are those little bags that say "Don't Eat" and come in new electronics boxes you've been saving. The Silica can be removed from the packs and dried in an oven on low heat for 30-45 mins. Then put them in anything that breathes and stuffed inside the bags with your parts & head. Then comes the bottom end. Back to the Machine shop with the block, crank and rods (flywheel/flex plate & balancer if you want to get fancy). The shop will hot tank the block, pressure check it, check it for cracks and check it for straightness. Align bore & deck as necessary and tell you how much overbore it will take to clean it up. They'll check the crank and let you know how much it'll take to clean it up as well. Once all that is done you can buy the pistons and the bearings. The machine shop will try to sell you the stuff but, you can buy it elsewhere. While you're hunting pistons & bearings, have the shop rebuild your rods. Once the shop has your pistons in hand, they'll finish hone the block and you can take it all home and put it together. Once at home, just make sure all the shiny surfaces have something on them to keep them from rusting. Of course, you'll be doing all the things a good engine builder does like checking ring gap. As long as you keep oil on everything, it won't rust on you. A tip a old timer taught me long ago is to scrub all your cylinders one at a time just before you slip the pistons in on the final assembly with Bonami (or other non-abrasive cleanser) and rinse with water (block upside down on the stand). Then dry them and oil immediately. He says this trick of makes the rings seat faster and once I started doing it I have to say my rings seated much, much faster. Sometimes almost immediately. -- Michael Baxter, 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 30-May-1997 at 00:19:35 PDT !^NavFont01F000AMGeHGnHQDC0134[Back to Top]
Date: 30 May 97 03:24:06 EDT From: Michael Baxter <74172.1164-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Re. 360 artic. chrissy saltsgaver <chrissys-at-midwest.net> writes: >> I know some of you have been considering converting to throttle body injection. Wouldn't you need to block off the heat riser for this set up? << Mike, by all rights a throttle body injection system is not as suspectible to ice formation as a carburetor. The heat does however help atomize the fuel for better mileage. Of course, it does hurt performance. I guess it sort of depends on what you want to do with the engine. Go fast when the tree turns green or get good performance 4 wheeling all day. And what the injection system's manufacturer says to do? On a port injected engine, ice formation is not be a problem and neither is keeping the fuel atomized all the way through the intake manifold. Relatively cool dense air/fuel wins hands down. >> Would that also go for the riser valve in the exhaust? << Heck, I got rid of that thing years ago. I got tired of it cracking and me having to replace it for $70 on a college student's budget. Having a leak-free exhaust system is important (in a life or death sort of way) in the COLD North. I didn't notice any difference with or without it. -- Michael Baxter, 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 30-May-1997 at 00:20:58 PDT !^NavFont01F000AMGoHGxHJAC15F0[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:32:28 PDT
From: "wallace rees" <seerlaw-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: General Info.
Ladies and Gentleman
I've been gone a few days, boy has that 360 engine rebuild gone through
the ceiling. It was a great report, I hope they finish it by doing a report on
the in veh. performace report. BTW where they correct about using the intake
gaskets, instead of the valley pan/intake gasket. I read the comments and
still wasn't sure what was correct.
I found out the other day that my click torque wrench lbs were not
correct. I was retorqueing the u-bolts on the rear axle starting with 80 lbs
and I thinking I'am doing a lot of wrenching for 80lbs and then the nut
stripped. I got out the bar torque wrench and as far as I could tell the click
wrench was hitting about 120lbs. The threads on the bolt looked ok so I put new
nuts on, doubled nutted it to be safe. I'll replace the u-bolt next days off.
I had white spokes, 15x8, put on the other day, when I got home I checked the
air pressure I couldn't beleive how much air they put in. It was between 37lbs
and 42lbs, I never had the correct tire pressure when I have had tires put on,
also the torque on the lug nuts was running 55lbs to 75 lbs. I sure have gotten
a lot of good comments about how great old redwood looks with those new wheels.
Does anyone know how to do the chalk test to check if your tires are properly
inflated?
Joe: I'll let you know when I get the stickers and if I get two sets I'll
return the extras.
John: still going to try and make the get together on the 5th. But the wife
says if I don't get some gas money from daughter, to pick her up I might not
make it. I figured about 200 for fuel alone and a good 10 hrs. drive. I
thinking of staying in one of those KOA camp cabins. We stayed in those cabins
last year in Montana while checking out ghost towns. It was like 40.00 for the
night for 6 people. Gord might check those out, they have showers and a
barbaque pit outside.
I sure enjoyed the engineering humor. I copied it and put it on the
unauthorized bulletin board at work.
Hey Alisa what did you do with 1300lbs of sand on a what sounded like a
camping tripe.
Hey there anyone one on the fsj page from S.L. Utah area? My family and I
will be going to Lagoon and on into S.L. the end of June for the family vac.,
kinda like Chevy Chase movies, maybe stop and say hi. if you have the time.
Oh Chris thanks for the info on the steering wheel hopfuly get that done
before the vac.
W. Rees
83 FSJ Redwood If you have to drive, drive a FSJ
---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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[Back to Top]Date: Fri, 30 May 97 01:06:08 PDT From: "Alisa Mize" <jaamize-at-nwlink.com> Subject: Re: General Info. ---------- > > Hey Alisa what did you do with 1300lbs of sand on a what sounded lik= e a > camping tripe. actually, it was just a day trip to go canoeing. the sand was in the back 'cause james was building a brick patio and had bought the sand the night before and then slept in to late to unload it before we left. Alisa[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 01:07:42 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <jeep-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: Assembly lube? Thanks Michael and the others who replied. Some good tips there. Best one is "do it all at once..." It's been years since I've gone through a motor from scratch and was used to doing it in a few days counting hot tank/machining/cam bearings pressed in etc. This new project will take a while since I'll be scrounging the core then accessories, brackets, smog stuff over a period of time. Thought I'd build as I go along but I think you're right. Scrounge first, then when I've got what I need, do it. Marvel Mystery oil huh? Never thought of it as a coating but I do use it on the boat. Squirt it in the air tools as a lube. Guess it's not just for freeing sticky lifters on old chebby's anymore huh? :) Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 07:07:44 -0500 From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer) Subject: Re: Assembly lube? Summitt has engine and head bags which are just large bags that you can use to cover your motor. I don't know if a trashbag would work well or not. You'd certainly want something that was oil resistant and I don't know if they are. JB "Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither." Benjamin Franklin[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 07:19:42 -0500 From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer) Subject: '84 J10 Advice Found an '84 J10 for sale about 45 minutes from my home. Probably going to go look at it this afternoon or tomorrow. What do I need to be attentive to on an '84 model in addition to the normal FSJ problems (no floorboards, etc.). Does this model have Quadra-Trac or Selec-Trac? I've heard that if the rig shudders when turning in a tight turn (emergency drive off) then the QT unit is shot or soon will be. More info please.... John Brewer "Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither." Benjamin Franklin[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 97 07:55:41 CDT
From: hanstr-at-cimsys01.aud.alcatel.com (Tony Hanson)
Subject: Vote for expansion of TX/OK Region
A motion and a second have been made to:
1) Incorporate Arkansas and Louisiana into
the TX/OK Chapter of the IFSJA.
2) Change the title of said chapter to the
Red River Valley Chapter IFSJA
Silence is a yea vote. Send any nay votes
directly to me to free up the list resources.
A final tally will be made known to the list
sometime Monday, June 2nd, and official notice
will be given to the honorable John Meister, Esq
and the honorable Doc Fariello, Esq, for web
page update purposes.
If you are in Arkansas or Louisiana and desire
to be a recognized member of the chapter,
please send me your name, email addr, vehicle
type, and city and state. Street address and
phone numbers are optional but appreciated.
Have a jeeping kind of weekend.....
Tony R. Hanson (hanstr-at-cimsys01.aud.alcatel.com)
IFSJA TX/OK Chapter RC
1964 Wagoneer Copeville, Texas
[Back to Top]Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:03:56 -0700 From: timothy cowden <cowden-at-comp.tamu.edu> Subject: Re: '62-'72 Parts Manual PRICES Zack Heisey wrote: > > Hello all, > I stopped by the printers on tuesday to get some prices, and am now > finally posting them. I got four different prices for four different > kinds of paper. Here they are, lightest paper to heaviest. > > 24# Text: (Next heavier than regular paper) $45 Out The Door > 70# Text: (Thicker and heavier) $50 OTD > 80# Text: (Really thick and heavy, I recommend) $55 OTD > 67# Cover Stock (Oh my god thick, this is normally just for covers. I like the #70. The price is right, and I wont be tempted to cut it up for gasket material. Tim Cowden '67 Wagoneer[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:40:22 -0600 (MDT)
From: Brian Riggs <Brian.Riggs-at-genetics.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: General Info.
On Fri, 30 May 1997, wallace rees wrote:
> Hey there anyone one on the fsj page from S.L. Utah area? My family and I
> will be going to Lagoon and on into S.L. the end of June for the family vac.,
> kinda like Chevy Chase movies, maybe stop and say hi. if you have the time.
>
> W. Rees
> 83 FSJ Redwood If you have to drive, drive a FSJ
Let me Know when you're going to be here and I'll try to arrange things so
that we can get together for a bit. If I remember right there's also
someone else on the list from the Wasatch Front area. Maybe we can all get
together.
Brian
*-------------------------------------------------------------*
| briggs-at-genetics.utah.edu | Web Page Development UtahFWDA |
| justbr-at-aol.com | Storm Mountain 4X4 SLC Ut |
| Salt Lake City, Utah | Red Rock 4Wheelers Moab Ut |
|-------------------------------------------------------------|
|'79 Wide Trac Cherokee Chief S: AMC 360, T18, Dana20, Dana 44|
|front and rear with 4.56 gears & Lock-Rites, 35" BFG M/Ts, 4"|
|SkyJacker SoftRide Lift, Some rust, And lots of dents. =8) |
*-------------------------------------------------------------*
[Back to Top]Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:17:06 -0700 From: Gordon McKenzie <gordmck-at-direct.ca> Subject: Re: 4x4 Sc0 wrote: > > Does this make any sense for 4x4'ing? > > Go in with the 2 wheel drive. > When you get stuck, get out with 4 wheel drive. > Doesn't to me. I believe in swithching to 4wd as soon as practical to both prevent getting stuck and to take it a little easier on the trail. I 2wd you are more prone to spin tires and chew up the trail. I also believe it's easier on the drive train. Gord[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:23:54 -0700 From: Gordon McKenzie <gordmck-at-direct.ca> Subject: Re: ETA- Belligham TO Snowhomish ? Alisa Mize wrote: > > Eddie, > it depends on how you drive and when you drive > but assuming you are not getting stuck in traffic > jams, we have always been able to make the > trip in 2 1/2 to three hours. including a few stops > along the way. and we don't speed too much ;) > And that is from ballard to bellingham, which is about > a half hours difference or so. > Alisa > O.K. Where the heck is Snohomish? If it 2 - 3 hours East of Bellingham, than I'll head straight south and meet Eddie at John's. If it's south of Bellingham, I'll meet up with Eddie. Gord[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:29:17 -0700 From: Gordon McKenzie <gordmck-at-direct.ca> Subject: Re: General Info. wallace rees wrote: > Does anyone know how to do the chalk test to check if your tires are properly > inflated? make a chalk line across the tread (from one sidewall to another) and slowly drive in a straight line. The chalk should wear off evenly. If the inside wears off, too much air. If the outside wears off, not enough air. If one side wears off go to an alignment shop. Gord[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 97 08:54:44 PDT From: "Alisa Mize" <jaamize-at-nwlink.com> Subject: Re: ETA- Bellingham TO Snohomish ? ---------- > O.K. Where the heck is Snohomish? If it 2 - 3 hours East of Bellingham, > than I'll head straight south and meet Eddie at John's. If it's south = of > Bellingham, I'll meet up with Eddie. > > Gord > well, it's actually south then a little east. I forgot that it wasn't right off the i 5 corridor so actually it would probably be the same time as going to ballard. you would want to look at a road map to get the exact co ordinates. but to get an idea from bellingham you would want to go south on I 5 til you get to everett then head east for 5-10 miles. I don't know exactly where John was planning on us meeting though.[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:55:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: john meister <john-at->
Subject: Re: tires
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: John, maybe you can forward this to the other on the list-
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: 31 x 10.50 tires fit nicely on stock Wagoneers / Cherokees (non-Chief)
ORIG MSG: if using the factory mag wheels. There is 11 3/4" of room in the
ORIG MSG: wheelwell. A tire with the a section width of 11.5" is the maximum size
ORIG MSG: that will fit on the original mags without any fender lip trimming.
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: I, personally am going to put a 30"-32" x 11.50 tire on my Wagoneer
ORIG MSG: using the stock mags and I know it will fit due to extensive measuring
ORIG MSG: and trial fitting of similar tires. 31" is about the most heigth the
ORIG MSG: stock fenderwells accept, over 31" and a little trimming on the back of
ORIG MSG: the wheelwells will be necessary.
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: Warren Rund reno1-at-earthlink.net
ORIG MSG:
thanx for the info, will forward to the list...
I know that 31x10.5's will fit, Dan down in LA has them on his 87 GW...
BFG's, nice...
I'm running Michelin LTX's, 235's, speedo is within 1% accuracy... look nice.
I've had 30x9.5's w/o a lift, looked funny, but fit.
I've run the same 235's on my little xj wagoneer w/o a lift and w/o problems...
will be getting BFG all-terrains in the 30x9.5 or so for the little wag..
ttyl,
john
------------------------------------------------------------------
john-at- http://www./~john/
Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold...
------------------------------------------------------------------
Full Size Jeep Page Editor - Off-Road.com
81 Wagoneer Ltd (SJ) "Old Blue" (& 88 xj wgnr ltd)
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
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[Back to Top]Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:20:03 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Re: 4x4 At 08:17 AM 5/30/97 -0700, you wrote: >Sc0 wrote: >> >> Does this make any sense for 4x4'ing? >> >> Go in with the 2 wheel drive. >> When you get stuck, get out with 4 wheel drive. >> > >Doesn't to me. I believe in swithching to 4wd as soon as practical to >both prevent getting stuck and to take it a little easier on the trail. >I 2wd you are more prone to spin tires and chew up the trail. I also >believe it's easier on the drive train. > >Gord > Ahhh, the joys of owning a full time 4x4 :-) switch what??[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:23:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: john meister <john-at->
Subject: [Fwd: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: concentric.com: host not found)] (fwd)
Forwarded message:
ORIG MSG: From reno1-at-earthlink.net Fri May 30 09:14:21 1997
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: For anyone interested- I own a '77 Jeep wagoneer. 401 - 4bbl. When I
ORIG MSG: bought it, it ran rough. Since I enjoy tweeking more out of a motor, I
ORIG MSG: was excited at another project. A mechanic had gone over the motor and
ORIG MSG: could not find the problem (this is why I do not trust most mechanics)
ORIG MSG: for the previous owner. When I got it home, I started with a fresh
ORIG MSG: tune-up. Upon installing new plug wires, I discovered that the #7 wire
ORIG MSG: was not on the spark plug! After the tune-up, it ran better.
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: However, although it had torque, it was no speed freak. When floored
ORIG MSG: from a stop, it fealt more like a 304 than a 401. So I decide to
ORIG MSG: super-tune it to see what it could do. First problem, not enough air to
ORIG MSG: the carb due to factory "ram-air" air cleaner. I had another air cleaner
ORIG MSG: lid so I put that on which leaves a 1/2" gap for much more air to get to
ORIG MSG: the carb. Then I took the carb all apart (the original one) and tried to
ORIG MSG: figure out how to make it perform better. I jetted up from 69's to 71's,
ORIG MSG: loosened up the secondaries from grime, made the accelerator pump shot a
ORIG MSG: little richer and put it all back together with 10^ timing.
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: Before- it would not spin the tires in gravel unless excessively abused.
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: After- Spins the tires (1 front, 1 back) on pavement for 3 or 4 feet.
ORIG MSG: mileage went up 1 mpg, it now runs like a 401.
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG:
ORIG MSG: Warren Rund reno1-at-earthlink.net
ORIG MSG:
respond to Warren directly, he's trying to get on the list...
ttyl,
john
(leaving shortly... tty folks late Sunday or Monday...)
------------------------------------------------------------------
john-at- http://www./~john/
Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold...
------------------------------------------------------------------
Full Size Jeep Page Editor - Off-Road.com
81 Wagoneer Ltd (SJ) "Old Blue" (& 88 xj wgnr ltd)
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
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